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#141
07-14-2014, 05:59 PM
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I greatly appreciate your efforts. Let me know if there's anything else I can do to assist you. |
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#142
07-14-2014, 07:44 PM
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 I'll keep looking though!
__________________
 68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#143
07-14-2014, 07:52 PM
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I keep hoping there is some GM executive somewhere that has the production numbers stuck to the bottom of his shoe in his attic.... I'm going to go with that hope. 
__________________
68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#144
07-14-2014, 09:45 PM
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#145
07-14-2014, 10:02 PM
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That thread was from 9 years ago??? Holy crap, where does the time go....... EDIT: sorry, 7 years ago
__________________
68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA Last edited by 68ragtop; 07-14-2014 at 10:15 PM. |
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#146
07-17-2014, 11:23 PM
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found this in my pics. Gold T/A
__________________
" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#147
07-18-2014, 07:06 AM
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I would like to have that framed in the garage! Very cool picture indeed! Any idea what issue that was in? magazine add I assume?
__________________
68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#148
07-18-2014, 12:53 PM
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I do not have this physical advert, so I do not know its source, but would assume car and driver, Ebay may help . FB
__________________
" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#149
07-18-2014, 08:03 PM
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Radiator Question
Okay, so I have a radiator question. The Gold Car is a W72, 4 speed, A/C car with a radiator code on the build sheet of FD*L. It does not have HD cooling. The radiator in the car is a 3 core with no visible markings or tags that I can discern. What would be the correct radiator based on this information and where should it have markings? The radiator certainly looks original, but who knows.....
Related to this, I noticed while checking it out that the two lower radiator shroud bolts are missing. If anyone has a couple I am in the market. |
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#150
07-18-2014, 08:26 PM
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the Rad code is "FA*L"Van Nuys Build BTW. 
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#151
07-19-2014, 01:55 AM
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image below w Rad Code "FY*L" |
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#152
07-19-2014, 07:15 AM
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FY*L on Roundports build sheet is interesting because the 1978 service manual shows the FY designation as correct for a 350ci manual without a/c or the super cooling option. It has a capacity of 17.2. The 400ci manual without A/C or super cooling is listed as code FR with a capacity of 19.7.
My car is listed as FD which corresponds to the build sheet and has a capacity of 20.3. I still am looking for two lower shroud bolts and information as to where the radiator code can be found on the tank. |
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#153
07-19-2014, 08:09 AM
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I don't know if metal tags were on them. If they were, they'd be located near the lower hose outlet.
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#154
07-19-2014, 08:33 AM
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Radiator
To anyone on board, that help. Based on my build sheet,, do I need a FY, rad fo r a 350. Is the FY, embossed on tank. That may be why, car has a 4 core in now. Does anyone think, it was mistake from factory
Which one should I be searching for? OTE=Bentwheelbob;5237096]FY*L on Roundports build sheet is interesting because the 1978 service manual shows the FY designation as correct for a 350ci manual without a/c or the super cooling option. It has a capacity of 17.2. The 400ci manual without A/C or super cooling is listed as code FR with a capacity of 19.7. My car is listed as FD which corresponds to the build sheet and has a capacity of 20.3. I still am looking for two lower shroud bolts and information as to where the radiator code can be found on the tank.[/QUOTE] |
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#155
07-19-2014, 08:35 AM
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Radiator
I just thought of this, not sure if my logic correct, but since car sold new in Canada, would that have any bearing?
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#156
07-19-2014, 09:21 PM
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Hinge Detent Roller
One out of three isn't bad in baseball...Today I was hoping to get the door hinge detent roller installed, the window aligned, and the body side molding installed. Today I got the detent roller installed and I'm not so sure it isn't a worse job than replacing the heater core. I'm sure MPD would agree.
We hoped to remove the door hinge and replace the roller without taking the door off. We finally got the hinge out, but had to loosen the lower hinge bolts to do so. Installing the new roller went well - very straight forward and it fit well even though it was not made for a '78 FBody. While the hinge was out we replaced the bushings and that was a little more difficult as the pins had been replaced before and instead of securing the pin with a clip it had been tack welded in place. That finally got remedied and the real fun started. We had slotted the rear mounting hole on the hinge so that the rear bolt could be started and then the hinge slid into place. We tried for about 30 minutes to get the right angle and never could. Finally we gave up and just took the door totally off. We had secured the door before starting with binder straps and a floor jack, so once we got the door loose it was pretty easy to manage and things went much better. It took a while to get things lined up after that, but it all came together. The door stays open, has zero sag, and opens and closes with no drag. The job, however, was a real drag... A few tips before the pictures. 1) Don't kid yourself about doing this with the door on. Take it off. 2) Get the longest 7/16" wrench you can. We had Joey at The Welding Shop make one up for us when went to get the pin replaced. 3) Get a door spring compressor. MPD had one thank goodness. 4) Use plenty of tape. We taped with painters tape and then added a layer or two of gorilla tape and nothing got damaged.    The new roller  The custom wrench and spring compressor 
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#157
07-19-2014, 11:31 PM
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Glad that hurdle is done! I bought 2 of the Harbor freight door holders for this work, still can be tedious in paint..Glad yours wasnt drilled out at last replacement. These need grease !
__________________
" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#158
07-20-2014, 07:25 AM
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What sets us apart from the other animals is the ability to make & use tools.
Did any get thrown during this process? I'm always good for a throw when everything seems to be fighting back at you.
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#159
07-20-2014, 07:41 AM
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Radiator mystery
Spoke with guy in British Columbia, that had car, since around 88. remembers, now, that car had 2 core, so he changed, way back. He thinks, He may have.
Across, from his shop in Vancouver, a guy has a 78 blue, Ws6, w72. Optioned almost identical. It too has same rad, so he documented a few more, called me back. All The 4spd s had same 2 core. It must of made, cars going to Canada, with vold, got 2 cores. . |
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#160
07-20-2014, 07:47 AM
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wow.
Bob, great work, have a 71, that you could really practice your skills on.
UOTE=Bentwheelbob;5237561]One out of three isn't bad in baseball...Today I was hoping to get the door hinge detent roller installed, the window aligned, and the body side molding installed. Today I got the detent roller installed and I'm not so sure it isn't a worse job than replacing the heater core. I'm sure MPD would agree. We hoped to remove the door hinge and replace the roller without taking the door off. We finally got the hinge out, but had to loosen the lower hinge bolts to do so. Installing the new roller went well - very straight forward and it fit well even though it was not made for a '78 FBody. While the hinge was out we replaced the bushings and that was a little more difficult as the pins had been replaced before and instead of securing the pin with a clip it had been tack welded in place. That finally got remedied and the real fun started. We had slotted the rear mounting hole on the hinge so that the rear bolt could be started and then the hinge slid into place. We tried for about 30 minutes to get the right angle and never could. Finally we gave up and just took the door totally off. We had secured the door before starting with binder straps and a floor jack, so once we got the door loose it was pretty easy to manage and things went much better. It took a while to get things lined up after that, but it all came together. The door stays open, has zero sag, and opens and closes with no drag. The job, however, was a real drag... A few tips before the pictures. 1) Don't kid yourself about doing this with the door on. Take it off. 2) Get the longest 7/16" wrench you can. We had Joey at The Welding Shop make one up for us when went to get the pin replaced. 3) Get a door spring compressor. MPD had one thank goodness. 4) Use plenty of tape. We taped with painters tape and then added a layer or two of gorilla tape and nothing got damaged. The new roller The custom wrench and spring compressor [/QUOTE]
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