[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by F ROCK

thank you.
I have got it all back together now with the same result.
the fork is holding the bearing against the tines without any foot pressure; but when I push the pedal, it feels like a sponge, like its only pulling a spring and I cannot feel the clutch part at all. yes, I know how it is supposed to feel. this trans came out of my 66 lemans.

also, the trans is bolted up tight to the bellhousing and the crossmember is sitting there, straight, 12" back from the jacking location, on each side; but the trans mount is about an inch too far toward the passenger side?

Just because the trans came out of another car has nothing to do how the clutch will feel, you do realize that don't you? The clutch is probably totally different than the clutch you had in the other car, right? It might just be a weak pressure plate, and the leverage the linkage provides might be different. So, now, with it all together, TAKE A PIC. You are making this way more difficult than it needs to be.

***Next step would be to measure air gap on the disc, which is done with the pedal depressed, with a feeler gauge between the flywheel and disc.***

No one here can recommend an adjustable pilot ball, different throw out bearing, or any other part without knowing the results of the above step, period.

The pics that JSPONT posted gives a good perspective on the angle/relationship of the fork to bell housing, and would be a good indication if the throw out is correct.

I have no idea what you're talking about when you say 'jacking location', and the cross member being too far to the passenger side. So, if it needs to move, move it. If the rear of the trans is off to one side, you probably boogered an engine mount from all the activity. Check them.

I strongly suggest you get a factory service manual, and review areas that you plan to work on beforehand, get familiar with how things are supposed to be assembled and terminology. It will save you tons of frustration in the future.

Also, if you're asking for advice, read the advice, make sure you are clear on the direction, and actually FOLLOW the advice. That will also help reduce the effort and frustration.

How many times did you take that thing apart and put it back together now? I think I'm just as frustrated as you are!

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[F ROCK]

"Also, if you're asking for advice, read the advice, make sure you are clear on the direction, and actually FOLLOW the advice. That will also help reduce the effort and frustration. "

Thanks highway star.
first off; I have followed advise. I have provided several photographs also.

I know what a clutch pedal is supposed to feel like; that's all I was trying to say.
If you don't know where the jacking locations are, well rather than write something sarcastic, i'll just tell you that they are holes in the frame right at the end of the boxed section, behind the front wheel.

fyi this is not the first time I've changed a clutch. I've done all three of my work trucks; twenty years ago, but this is the first time in a car and there's a lot less room.
this is, however, my first automatic to 4 speed conversion.

at this point I believe I have it together correctly, with the correct parts.
thank you all for your input.

[HWYSTR455]

Well, I apologize, my intent wasn't to offend, really, I do try hard to help folks here. I was just shy a few quarts of coffee when I replied.

So it's together and still feels the same? Is the fork moving when you press the pedal?


.

[F ROCK]

well tonight I removed the z bar and frame bracket.
the frame bracket was a bit worn, and wouldn't hold the shaft tightly.
I squeezed it in my vise, now the shaft fits in there snug like it's supposed to and I could tighten it up better. that was causing some slop.
the engine side has the bolt and sleeve which is still pretty sloppy but after I cleaned it up real good I noticed that it was plated, and that the plating was only slightly worn, so I guess that's just how it is, so I reassembled.
I don't feel that the zbar and linkage are part of the problem now.
I've called around napa, pep boys, ect. I only see one throwout bearing listed.
my bellhousing is a factory piece.
my fork has no number on it but it looks just like the one in the PY catalog.
I will attach the fork angle photo that you've requested as soon as I find my camera in this mess.
i'm thinking of exchanging this clutch/pressure plate.
I don't think an adjustable ball, longer pushrod, or taller bearing is the answer.
but I thank everyone for their suggestions, and for sticking with me on this.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by F ROCK

well tonight I removed the z bar and frame bracket.
the frame bracket was a bit worn, and wouldn't hold the shaft tightly.
I squeezed it in my vise, now the shaft fits in there snug like it's supposed to and I could tighten it up better. that was causing some slop.
the engine side has the bolt and sleeve which is still pretty sloppy but after I cleaned it up real good I noticed that it was plated, and that the plating was only slightly worn, so I guess that's just how it is, so I reassembled.
I don't feel that the zbar and linkage are part of the problem now.
I've called around napa, pep boys, ect. I only see one throwout bearing listed.
my bellhousing is a factory piece.
my fork has no number on it but it looks just like the one in the PY catalog.
I will attach the fork angle photo that you've requested as soon as I find my camera in this mess.
i'm thinking of exchanging this clutch/pressure plate.
I don't think an adjustable ball, longer pushrod, or taller bearing is the answer.
but I thank everyone for their suggestions, and for sticking with me on this.

"Engine side has a bolt and sleeve which is still pretty sloppy but after I cleaned it up real good I noticed that it was plated, and that the plating was only slightly worn, so I guess that's just how it is, so I reassembled."

Not sure how the plating lead you to believe that's just how it is, and this is a perfect reason pics work much better helping others understand what you're trying to explain. Think as far back as post #12 we were asking for pics of the z-bar and linkage, and that would have helped isolate any issues there.

"i'm thinking of exchanging this clutch/pressure plate.
I don't think an adjustable ball, longer pushrod, or taller bearing is the answer."

This is a simple mechanical equation with a simple mechanical solution, and one of those 3 are the most likely solution, or in worse case, a combo of those 3 items. You have to methodically approach the problem to find the cause, and then correct it. If you just swap the parts without knowing what's wrong you very likely will end up with the same problem, because the pressure plate and disc ARE GOING TO BE FOR THE SAME APPLICATION. Understand the logic there?

So the 3 areas are:
* throw out bearing, which can be eliminated by viewing the fork angle.
* linkage/throw, which can most likely be eliminated with a pic
* and then engagement/disengagement, which in general is adjustment (if all above are correct)

Do you have a buddy or friend that is knowledgeable that can come over and lend a hand? Sometimes a second set of eyes can really make a difference.

.

[F ROCK]

the parts counter said "we have a raised diaphragm pressure plate for oem applications, and we have another one that I have no details.,.."

I asked for the raised diaphragm piece. but when installed the tines are almost flat on the one I received. that's why I want to exchange it. I just want to compare it with another. something wrong with that?
I don't remember the pressure plates I've installed in the past being flat like that.
perhaps they gave me the other one.

here is a pic of the fork.
here also is a pic of the pressure plate. you cannot tell in the photo but the tines are almost flat.

[JSPONT]

Your fork looks okay, it might be a clutch/throw out bearing combo. I would compare it to another one. Do you have another auto parts besides napa near you? My diaphram fingers angle out,seems like yours are straighter. I would compare the 2 they have.