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#1
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The stoichiometric mixture for a gasoline engine is the ideal ratio of air to fuel that burns all fuel with no excess air. For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air–fuel mixture is about 14.7:1 i.e. for every ONE GRAM of FUEL MASS, to 14.7 grams of AIR MASS are required. You gain nothing by being leaner than 14.7 ratio because there is no FUEL MASS left to burn. There is a ideal burn rate vs push on the piston for given modes of engine operation. Think about it. At idle, even with the PCV Valve supplying 3 cfm of Inert Gas to the combustion process you are only using and burning 16 cfm of air and fuel mixture and 3 cfm of Inert gas. So, again, math wise, if you have a fresh mixture of Air and Fuel equal to 16 cfm and 3 cfm of burned Inert gases and oil mist you get 19 cfm at idle. Off idle, the burned Inert gases and oil mist continue to be at 3 cfm and the Mass of air and fuel mixture goes up to the maximum fuel capability of the fuel and air control orifices. So at your 16.8-17.5 mixture ratio you are using less than one volume of fuel vs 16 volumes of air in the engine at idle. Perfect combustion is again 14.7 quantity of air mass to one quantity of fuel mass. Anything above 14.7 is just bragging rights on an air/fuel gage and does nothing for you. Can't burn a mixture and make push on the piston without a combustion event. Anything above 14.7 and you cheated the fuel out of a chance to have a proper push on the piston for that air mass going thru the engine. So OEM Manufacturers today use modern computers to run at 14.7 Air/Fuel under all modes of operation today. They use other devices to help the engine run in those modes vs resorting to max power air/fuel ratio modes. They use transmission gearing and EFI to make it work. You can make a EFI unit run just as well as a carb but in both cases you have to put the right parts in the carb and the right calibration in the EFI system Just my comments. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#2
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First you have to keep in mind, stoich with todays 10% ethanol fuel is not 14.7:1. It's 14:1. .7 richer than real gas. Trying to run the real gas stoich number with 10% ethanol fuel is beyond it's efficiency range.
So your cruise AFR of 13.8-ish is by no means rich at all, not even close to being too rich. Quite frankly if the engine cruises fine there without drivability issues like surge, hesitation, I'd leave it be. The idle AFR however, I agree with Tom, way too lean even for real gas. Personally I would be richening the idle circuit. To get that in a safe level your mixture screws may or may not be active enough and sometimes it's necessary to increase the idle feed restrictor size. Keep in mind any increase in AFR on the idle circuit will also increase the overall AFR throughout, so your cruise and wide open throttle AFR's will fatten slightly. So you may or may not want to make other minor changes to get your cruise back where you want it. |
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#3
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While your correct about the differences between stoich values of different types of fuels, you have to be careful when applying it to a gauge readout. The O2 sensor is actually reading the ratio of excess air value above stoich, known as lambda. Then the gauge converts it to an "air/fuel ratio." Which means you have to know what the gauge manufacturer chose as the "stoich value" of the fuel. In most cases this is 14.7:1 (which as you said is for ethanol free). So in reality, @ cruise the sensor was probably reading .94 lambda, and therefore the gauge was programmed to calculate to a 14.7-based afr. Unless of course, the OP was already reading in lambda and then manually re-calculating himself. This is why I prefer using gauges that read out in lambda, as it takes that question out of the equation.
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"The Mustang's front end is problematic... get yourself a Firebird." - Red Forman |
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#4
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What temp does it take for the thermostat to start opening and what temp for full open?
How much timing are you running at cruise speed? Is the exhaust stinking and eye burning at idle? Porcelain on the spark plugs staying snow white? Lower radiator hose got a spring in it? Fan shroud fit the radiator core good? Does AFR readings stay the same from first start up (cold) and when it gets hot? T-stats that don't start opening till 195°F then don't fully open till past 200°F will cause this. Not enough timing advance will also make it run hot. IDK Clay
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All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
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#5
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Since we don't have to consider NOx or emissions at home we can play a bit of a different ball game an approach the 17:1 maximizing efficiency. |
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