[HWYSTR455]

I've used Valvoline, both the regular and racing, but switched from the racing due to it not having the appropriate additives for general street use. I've used rotella 10-40 almost exclusively for probably over 10 years, never had a problem there. I've used a bunch of others before that, Delo is pretty good, and a couple others.

I don't like GTX or any of the 'dark' oils, because, well, you can't tell when it gets dirty. So I go for the 'honey' gold stuff. But I did use GTX for a while.

I'm a fan of syn oils, but they are cost prohibitive. I get that they take more heat, and the additives don't break down as quick, but there are contaminants that get into the oil that requires the oil to be changed in X intervals, plain and simple. And some of those contaminants are not particular, they are solvent/chemical, so you can't filter them out regardless of what filter you're using. So I change it. At regular, REASONABLE intervals. For me, that's usually in the 3-5000 range, depending on use.

I've used additives in some situations, additional detergents in some cases can be helpful. Just use common sense in those situations. Stuck/noisy lifter? Yeah, MMO is ok, but I don't suggest running for any length of time. If it doesn't clear up within like 1000-1500 miles, you need to dump it, and fix the issue other ways. Common sense IMO.

No octane additives for me. Yeah, technically, it may raise the octane rating a point or 2, but the engine doesn't feel it, because it's cheating the rating system, that's it.

Now cleaners and water remover, that's different. You can run a fuel injector cleaner in a efi car, but I don't see a purpose running it in a carb car. Clean the filter, spray the carb down, disassemble occasionally, and done. Be careful not to fill up at questionable gas stations. Again, common sense. And sorry, if you have a 40+ year old gas tank, it's time to change it, or at least drop it and have it cleaned/checked. You're just asking for trouble if you don't. What is that called, 'play and pray'?

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[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I've used Valvoline, both the regular and racing, but switched from the racing due to it not having the appropriate additives for general street use. I've used rotella 10-40 almost exclusively for probably over 10 years, never had a problem there. I've used a bunch of others before that, Delo is pretty good, and a couple others.

I don't like GTX or any of the 'dark' oils, because, well, you can't tell when it gets dirty. So I go for the 'honey' gold stuff. But I did use GTX for a while.

I'm a fan of syn oils, but they are cost prohibitive. I get that they take more heat, and the additives don't break down as quick, but there are contaminants that get into the oil that requires the oil to be changed in X intervals, plain and simple. And some of those contaminants are not particular, they are solvent/chemical, so you can't filter them out regardless of what filter you're using. So I change it. At regular, REASONABLE intervals. For me, that's usually in the 3-5000 range, depending on use.

I've used additives in some situations, additional detergents in some cases can be helpful. Just use common sense in those situations. Stuck/noisy lifter? Yeah, MMO is ok, but I don't suggest running for any length of time. If it doesn't clear up within like 1000-1500 miles, you need to dump it, and fix the issue other ways. Common sense IMO.

No octane additives for me. Yeah, technically, it may raise the octane rating a point or 2, but the engine doesn't feel it, because it's cheating the rating system, that's it.

Now cleaners and water remover, that's different. You can run a fuel injector cleaner in a efi car, but I don't see a purpose running it in a carb car. Clean the filter, spray the carb down, disassemble occasionally, and done. Be careful not to fill up at questionable gas stations. Again, common sense. And sorry, if you have a 40+ year old gas tank, it's time to change it, or at least drop it and have it cleaned/checked. You're just asking for trouble if you don't. What is that called, 'play and pray'?

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One question about your statement that filters can't preserve oil because it gets contaminated by chemicals and solvents.

If you run the oil for 250,000 miles in an OTR truck with by pass filtration, only change the filters and add make up oil, it is sampled and sent off for analysis at regular intervals, and it comes back that the oil is still good, is it still bad by your standards that it's contaminated with chemicals and solvents? That infers that oil analysis is useless, correct?

I just ask because, that exact scenario has been done over and over. The difference between dropping the oil and conventional full flow filters at 15,000 miles, compared to using by pass filtration, and oil is still fully serviceable at 250,000 miles is the only difference. You extended the oils useful life by 16.6 plus times. Just from that example it seems that 1-2 micron filtering does make a huge difference. If the oil is analytically clean it interrupts the degradation of the oil, not forever, but it does make a huge difference in oil and engine life.

Add that to GMs own engine wear study that by pass oil filtration to 5 microns at 98% efficiency retards engine wear by 3.6 times, compared to a standard 40 micron full flow filter. Lessening wear that much shouldn't be ignored, wear cut by over 65%. There isn't any oil or additive on the market that can claim that type of wear reduction and have it documented by SAE, and GM.

Using GMs own statistics for a study that they funded, means that an engine that would normally run 200,000 miles would now be on track to run 720,000 miles with by pass filtration.

I'm well aware that most people here will ignore this fact, but if you're a car enthusiast it might save you some, money, time and work, I know it does me. The by pass filter systems on my own vehicles installed in 2011 paid for themselves about 4 years ago in oil and filter costs, I didn't factor in any savings for reduced engine wear.

My oil gets changed every 3-4 years, 30-40,000 miles, diesel and gas. Gas engine, LS2 05 GTO, currently 136,000 miles, last oil change at 106,000 miles 2015. Diesel engine, 93 K3500 dually, 6.5 turbo diesel engine current mileage 266,000 miles, oil last changed at 235,000 miles in 2015. I had the timing cover apart last year on the 6.5 to change a water pump, the timing chain has not stretched, was tight just like a new chain is, and the inside of the timing cover after wiping it with a rag is perfectly clean, right down to bare aluminum.

The technology is there for anyone that feels they'd like to cut engine wear significantly. Read up on by pass oil filtration if any of this peaks your interest.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

One question about your statement that filters can't preserve oil because it gets contaminated by chemicals and solvents.

If you run the oil for 250,000 miles in an OTR truck with by pass filtration, only change the filters and add make up oil, it is sampled and sent off for analysis at regular intervals, and it comes back that the oil is still good, is it still bad by your standards that it's contaminated with chemicals and solvents? That infers that oil analysis is useless, correct?

I just ask because, that exact scenario has been done over and over. The difference between dropping the oil and conventional full flow filters at 15,000 miles, compared to using by pass filtration, and oil is still fully serviceable at 250,000 miles is the only difference. You extended the oils useful life by 16.6 plus times. Just from that example it seems that 1-2 micron filtering does make a huge difference. If the oil is analytically clean it interrupts the degradation of the oil, not forever, but it does make a huge difference in oil and engine life.

Add that to GMs own engine wear study that by pass oil filtration to 5 microns at 98% efficiency retards engine wear by 3.6 times, compared to a standard 40 micron full flow filter. Lessening wear that much shouldn't be ignored, wear cut by over 65%. There isn't any oil or additive on the market that can claim that type of wear reduction and have it documented by SAE, and GM.

Using GMs own statistics for a study that they funded, means that an engine that would normally run 200,000 miles would now be on track to run 720,000 miles with by pass filtration.

I'm well aware that most people here will ignore this fact, but if you're a car enthusiast it might save you some, money, time and work, I know it does me. The by pass filter systems on my own vehicles installed in 2011 paid for themselves about 4 years ago in oil and filter costs, I didn't factor in any savings for reduced engine wear.

My oil gets changed every 3-4 years, 30-40,000 miles, diesel and gas. Gas engine, LS2 05 GTO, currently 136,000 miles, last oil change at 106,000 miles 2015. Diesel engine, 93 K3500 dually, 6.5 turbo diesel engine current mileage 266,000 miles, oil last changed at 235,000 miles in 2015. I had the timing cover apart last year on the 6.5 to change a water pump, the timing chain has not stretched, was tight just like a new chain is, and the inside of the timing cover after wiping it with a rag is perfectly clean, right down to bare aluminum.

The technology is there for anyone that feels they'd like to cut engine wear significantly. Read up on by pass oil filtration if any of this peaks your interest.

Ok, please don't put words in my mouth, I have a pretty good ability to make a fool out of myself without help! Heheh!

I really don't think you're comparing apples to apples here. Let's take this example. Take a quart of oil, and a quart of pump gasoline, put them in a gas can and shake for 1 min. Then pour it thru one of your magical filters, how much comes out? 2 quarts, right? Minus whatever gets trapped in the filter. That's because no WAY can filter media SEPARATE the 2 fluids. Period. It's a filter, not a separator, the media is fiber based, and depending on how close the fibers are meshed is what dictates the size of PARTICLES that get removed.

Now I won't argue that it does filter down to smaller particles than typical off the shelf consumer auto filters. But. Because of bearing clearances, etc, it's debatable how much damage that would actually cause.

Now, when it comes to service/fleet vehicles, not only do they have much better oil filtration, but air filtration as well.

Oil analysis, there are many types of oil analysis, and the basic ones measure PARTICULAR material contaminates. Yes, they look for others, but generally, only if there is more than X contamination. And they certainly don't measure oil additives.

Oil additives, they wear out. That generally is not only from X use, but also X time. No filtration system will RESTORE additives. When they are gone, they're gone. And most additives are more important in gasoline apps, because there is such a variation in quality, mainly from poor storage.

I could keep going, about carb/efi, and gas/diesel, SCRs, but I don't need to, it's obvious. I don't doubt bypass filters are better, but they generally look crappy in a musclecar engine bay. And I'm not going to carry a pack of Charmin in the garage. People would ask what the heck it was for. And then I would have to explain while trying to drown out laughter.

Someone once told me the majority of the cost of auto oil was due to the additives and the packaging. Not sure if that's true, but I think I'm ok with spending like 25 bucks to do an oil change every 3-5k miles. Then I KNOW it's fresh, contaminants are removed, and additives are replenished. It's a cost I'm willing to accept, and it works.

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