[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by moneypit

Thanks Jim, my engine is 10:1 compression.

Ok, sounds good.

Do you have the dyno numbers for idle on up? Was curious as to the HP/TQ numbers since the tunnel ram is often looked down on as a streetable piece at these lower RPM's.

Again, most will say the tunnel ram is for mid-to-upper RPM's but from your dyno sheet, this does not seem to be the case. It seems to peak at a perfect RPM for a street engine.

I am going more for the period look with my set-up, using velocity stacks topped with a Hilborn style scoop.

Another thing I see. You have the finned valve covers. Make sure you have breathers. I see the oil fill cap, and assume a breather on the other side? I also have finned valve covers and will be using the Moon add-on breathers ala the old school look. I mocked them up on an engine I have sitting and will mount the breathers permanent when I have the tunnel ram in place on the engine.

[Formulajones]

Tunnel rams are actually better than people give them credit for. The long runners produce good torque through the rpm range and they'll make hp. I've never seen an engine yet that didn't like a tunnel ram when setup properly.

2 biggest issues with them is packaging of course, and cold starts can be a pain, but if you're good at tuning the carbs you're using they can be made to drive pretty decent.

Besides, nothing looks cooler on classic muscle than a period correct tunnel ram

[Steve C.]

Asked in post number 8 but it's still not clear. I presume the testing was performed on a engine dyno and not a chassis dyno.

A water brake engine dyno like a SuperFlow needs to be set to operate in a certain rpm range based off the torque the engine is producing. After some initial pulls and adjustments to the brake, you start testing at a certain rpm. More often than not at about 3000 rpm and up.

"Starting engine dynamometer pulls at low rpm is hard on the dyno and hard on the engine. Today, engine dynamometer testing is an integral part of many HOT ROD engine buildups and product tests. Typically these tests start no lower than 2,800 rpm, and often higher."

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dyno...often%20higher.


.

[moneypit]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Asked in post number 8 but it's still not clear. I presume the testing was performed on a engine dyno and not a chassis dyno.

A water brake engine dyno like a SuperFlow needs to be set to operate in a certain rpm range based off the torque the engine is producing. After some initial pulls and adjustments to the brake, you start testing at a certain rpm. More often than not at about 3000 rpm and up.

"Starting engine dynamometer pulls at low rpm is hard on the dyno and hard on the engine. Today, engine dynamometer testing is an integral part of many HOT ROD engine buildups and product tests. Typically these tests start no lower than 2,800 rpm, and often higher."

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/dyno...often%20higher.


.

Misunderstood the question in post #8. Testing was done on a engine dyno at Westside Performance in Houston TX.

[Steve C.]

Westside Performance is a good shop. I've had a few dyno sessions there, the last was in Oct this year. Cost at that time was $650.

I mentioned the tid bit about a engine dyno because it was asked about numbers for idle on up.

Nice build.


.

[moneypit]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Westside Performance is a good shop. I've had a few dyno sessions there, the last was in Oct this year. Cost at that time was $650.

I mentioned the tid bit about a engine dyno because it was asked about numbers for idle on up.

Nice build.


.

Thanks Steve, good people at Westside. Mine was done in January, same price.

[moneypit]

Originally Posted by PontiacJim1959

Ok, sounds good.

Do you have the dyno numbers for idle on up? Was curious as to the HP/TQ numbers since the tunnel ram is often looked down on as a streetable piece at these lower RPM's.

Again, most will say the tunnel ram is for mid-to-upper RPM's but from your dyno sheet, this does not seem to be the case. It seems to peak at a perfect RPM for a street engine.

I am going more for the period look with my set-up, using velocity stacks topped with a Hilborn style scoop.

Another thing I see. You have the finned valve covers. Make sure you have breathers. I see the oil fill cap, and assume a breather on the other side? I also have finned valve covers and will be using the Moon add-on breathers ala the old school look. I mocked them up on an engine I have sitting and will mount the breathers permanent when I have the tunnel ram in place on the engine.

I don't have numbers from idle up, but the car drives great. Crisp throttle response and lots of low and mid power. I do have a breather on the passenger side and PCV valve in the valley pan. Your set-up looks sweet! What's it going in?

[PontiacJim1959]

Originally Posted by moneypit

I don't have numbers from idle up, but the car drives great. Crisp throttle response and lots of low and mid power. I do have a breather on the passenger side and PCV valve in the valley pan. Your set-up looks sweet! What's it going in?

OK, driving impression sounds like what I wanted to hear.

Putting the engine in a 1968 Lemans I've had about 20 years. Was on the road about 8 of those. Doing a frame-off resto-mod ala mid '70's look, TKO-600, Ford 9", tunnel ram, big & littles, one piece fiberglass tilt nose, jacked up, white interior, tilt steering column, Grant steering wheel, Jensen door speakers in my new white door panels, Kraco under dash 8-track, and all the extra gauges outside the windshield. LOL

Got side tracked with a 1948 International Box truck I am rebuilding for my brother. Have not touched the '68 in 4 years, but I have been purchasing a boat load of parts that'll make it quick to put it all back together. The body is back on the frame.