[shaker455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Shaker455 can’t hook me up with a quad but he can help me tune my double pumper (Brawler)
https://youtu.be/dNwfbQA-d4U
That’s a neat video

More of a matter of his intake not comparable for a spreadbore

[64speed]

Originally Posted by shaker455

More of a matter of his intake not comparable for a spreadbore

Yeah it wasn’t that he couldn’t, it was my intake. I agree about the Edelbrock Pro Flo. I know your mileage may vary but after I got it running and looked at the wires (that I planned to put in a loom) and got to thinking about troubleshooting on the side of the road I thought of the old KISS acronym and Air/Fuel/Spark. As long as you got all 3 should run. One bad splice on that thing and here comes the ohm meter.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Before you install that carb, spray it with Sharkhide coating otherwise you'll be surprised how quickly the polished look disappears. Tape off the entire top, sight glasses on the bowls and all openings. Wipr down with lacquer thinner first to remove any oil. I spray linkage and all with a light coat. It's the only thing I've found that maintains the polished appearance. doesn't yellow and is fuel resistant.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharkhide-Aer...5594404&sr=8-4

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

Before you install that carb, spray it with Sharkhide coating otherwise you'll be surprised how quickly the polished look disappears. Tape off the entire top, sight glasses on the bowls and all openings. Wipr down with lacquer thinner first to remove any oil. I spray linkage and all with a light coat. It's the only thing I've found that maintains the polished appearance. doesn't yellow and is fuel resistant.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharkhide-Aer...5594404&sr=8-4

I've always wanted to try Sharkhide. Works good?

I would reco using wax and grease remover instead of lacquer thinner. I love lacquer thinner. But it eats about anything!

I screwed up years ago. I use Eagle mag wheel cleaner for aluminum parts. It has acid and works great. Works really well on my Centerline wheels. I started using it to clean my intake manifold as well. Didn't think about it getting on my Holley carb. It ate some of the coating away. DOH!

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-E30.../dp/B00J4RN7RS

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

I've always wanted to try Sharkhide. Works good?

I would reco using wax and grease remover instead of lacquer thinner. I love lacquer thinner. But it eats about anything!

I screwed up years ago. I use Eagle mag wheel cleaner for aluminum parts. It has acid and works great. Works really well on my Centerline wheels. I started using it to clean my intake manifold as well. Didn't think about it getting on my Holley carb. It ate some of the coating away. DOH!

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-E30.../dp/B00J4RN7RS

Yes, the Sharkhide works great.

I spent a whole day once disassembling my "tumble polished" Holley that had turned into a nasty gray aluminum junkyard core looking carb in a couple years of occasional use. I finished it up and when I came back the next day, it was just as gray and oxidized as when I started. I got turned onto Sharkhide which keeps the polished aluminum nice and shiney. I also use iy on my radiator, alternator and intake. A light coat gives a semi-gloss perfect for parts. A heavy coat on the carb keeps it glossy.

I always use the milder wheel cleaner for clear-coated aluminum wheels for under hood cleaning and rinse well. The acid based stuff will etch the plain aluminum parts white and strip the anodized coating off aluminum and cad plating off steel.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Yeah it wasn’t that he couldn’t, it was my intake. I agree about the Edelbrock Pro Flo. I know your mileage may vary but after I got it running and looked at the wires (that I planned to put in a loom) and got to thinking about troubleshooting on the side of the road I thought of the old KISS acronym and Air/Fuel/Spark. As long as you got all 3 should run. One bad splice on that thing and here comes the ohm meter.

The Sniper is only 5 wires to hook up, power, ground, key-on, fuel pump, and points wire. Everything else is plug-in. You will probably use a CD box anyway, but that's usually 5 wires too, power ground, key-on, trigger (to points wire of sniper), and tach.

But I guess some find that daunting and become overwhelmed. Doubt you would have had an issue where it would leave you stranded, many run them for many miles with no failures. Shoot, the old Commander system from the 90s is still in use today with no issues, and Holley still supports it.

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[64speed]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The Sniper is only 5 wires to hook up, power, ground, key-on, fuel pump, and points wire. Everything else is plug-in. You will probably use a CD box anyway, but that's usually 5 wires too, power ground, key-on, trigger (to points wire of sniper), and tach.

But I guess some find that daunting and become overwhelmed. Doubt you would have had an issue where it would leave you stranded, many run them for many miles with no failures. Shoot, the old Commander system from the 90s is still in use today with no issues, and Holley still supports it.

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I have had dozens of classic cars in my life. I drove a 58 Chevrolet Delray as my first car. Until my first wife and I bought a new truck in 2008 I had never had a vehicle less than 30 years younger than me (born in 79). I guess I’m stuck in my ways. I expected it to be like they said, hit the key and it fits it, it didn’t! Found out that one of the weather packs was not completely seated, ok my fault. Got it started, got it adjusted per the 76 page manual (full printout) and it just didn’t seem to run right. I shut it off and when I did it spit back a puff of smoke like carbs do sometimes. I went to the Holley forums and granted only extremists post places like that but still, horror stories. I just got to thinking, maybe if was RFI making it run ****ty so I went and moved wires around. No better, checked my grounds, no better. Then I got to thinking, I plan to drive A LOT. I know nothings fool proof but it’s just a known commodity for me to have everything mechanical, no trying to find the bad splice, no trying to determine what failed. You got 3 things in a carb system, all of which I can fix with the tools in my jump bag. When the time comes and there is some more data the Pro Flo looks viable but I just didn’t like this “thing”

[HWYSTR455]

You realize it does take a little time to learn, you have to let it run and drive it some.

If the tune isn't good, and you are impatient, you can use a tuner, it's all over the phone/internet, and there not that expensive. There are others on here that have the same setup, and could even give you a baseline tune. If you need help with that, call me.

'Splices' usually work or don't. It's still not a lot of wires to give a tug on to figure out if it's 'bad'.

Holley forums are not very good depending on where you post and who responds. 99% of all issues are user-caused, and then they blame the system. You get much better support if you email Holley. They will respond, get your phone number, and call you back pretty quick. Screw trying to call the support number.

Once it's installed properly and running, you will never have to touch it again (for the most part). Just get over the initial hump and it's going to be the best experience, especially from a maintenance & reliability perspective.

The best things never come easy.

I have a tune on-hand you can use that would be very close if not right-on. You have my personal email, just ask.


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[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I have had dozens of classic cars in my life. I drove a 58 Chevrolet Delray as my first car. Until my first wife and I bought a new truck in 2008 I had never had a vehicle less than 30 years younger than me (born in 79). I guess I’m stuck in my ways. I expected it to be like they said, hit the key and it fits it, it didn’t! Found out that one of the weather packs was not completely seated, ok my fault. Got it started, got it adjusted per the 76 page manual (full printout) and it just didn’t seem to run right. I shut it off and when I did it spit back a puff of smoke like carbs do sometimes. I went to the Holley forums and granted only extremists post places like that but still, horror stories. I just got to thinking, maybe if was RFI making it run ****ty so I went and moved wires around. No better, checked my grounds, no better. Then I got to thinking, I plan to drive A LOT. I know nothings fool proof but it’s just a known commodity for me to have everything mechanical, no trying to find the bad splice, no trying to determine what failed. You got 3 things in a carb system, all of which I can fix with the tools in my jump bag. When the time comes and there is some more data the Pro Flo looks viable but I just didn’t like this “thing”

So you can fix this issue with a carb, but not with a throttle body based EFI? Your post even mentions carbs due this too.

So you're blaming the EFI, for what likely is an install issue, or issue on the engine itself. If it's popping out the throttle body on shut down there's several issues that can point to that. Timing issues, poorly adjusted valvetrain, lean conditions and vacuum leaks contribute to this.

Do whatever you want, but it's pretty clear you gave up on this deal before you even started. Which at that point why'd you even install it? You took several hundred bucks off resale value going from new in box, never installed to installed and removed. Your wallet though.