[TB1]

If you want to get it down without waiting for parts or tools to arrive, get a telescopic magnet and a 3/8 x 1.25 NC bolt and nut and lock washer drill out the hole in the frame and install, This is what I have done on my 65 with all four is it a hack fix, possibly but I didn't want to buy the Rivnut set and a bunch of wasted time waiting when I could of been driving.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by TB1

If you want to get it down without waiting for parts or tools to arrive, get a telescopic magnet and a 3/8 x 1.25 NC bolt and nut and lock washer drill out the hole in the frame and install, This is what I have done on my 65 with all four is it a hack fix, possibly but I didn't want to buy the Rivnut set and a bunch of wasted time waiting when I could of been driving.

I did that on my 71. I kept ripping the threaded inserts out of the frame, so I said screw it and just bolted it in with a regular nuts and bolts.

[HWYSTR455]

There's a difference between a rivnut and a thread-sert. Both types come up on searching either of the 2 types, so KNOW what you're buying before you buy.

Have to use steel inserts, and the steel inserts of the rivnuts is what is used, so you can't use the 'plyers' type of tool, it has to be the longer arm type of tool.

I've mentioned this before, but you have to drill the proper size hole, and depending on the size you need, you will most likely have to by a fractional drill bit that's not normally available in sets, or even some hardware stores.

When a rivnut fails (spins), 99.999% of the time is because the incorrect hole size was drilled. Once it spins, you can use the size rivnut you used before, you have to go bigger.

Problem is when you go to a bigger hole, the bolt heads get bigger, and may not fit due to the U bend of the bar bushing bracket.

If you can reach in from the front of the frame horn, you could make a plate with 2 bolts in it, and fish it into the frame, having the bolts drop thru. You can use a steel plate and tap holes so the bolts don't have to be welded, etc.

You might have to take the front bumper off to get to the front opening of the frame horn.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Also, rivnuts and thread-sert have different inserts for different materials' thickness. They only compress so far, so you have to make sure you use the correct insert for the job.

Generic ones usually have a wider range of compression, and are in some cases not intended for higher loads. For critical apps, you have to use the most optimal insert.



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[HWYSTR455]

Difference between a Thread-sert & Rivnut tool:


Blue = 'plyer type tool'

Red = 'Long arm type tool'



.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There's a difference between a rivnut and a thread-sert. Both types come up on searching either of the 2 types, so KNOW what you're buying before you buy.

Have to use steel inserts, and the steel inserts of the rivnuts is what is used, so you can't use the 'plyers' type of tool, it has to be the longer arm type of tool.

I've mentioned this before, but you have to drill the proper size hole, and depending on the size you need, you will most likely have to by a fractional drill bit that's not normally available in sets, or even some hardware stores.

When a rivnut fails (spins), 99.999% of the time is because the incorrect hole size was drilled. Once it spins, you can use the size rivnut you used before, you have to go bigger.

Problem is when you go to a bigger hole, the bolt heads get bigger, and may not fit due to the U bend of the bar bushing bracket.

If you can reach in from the front of the frame horn, you could make a plate with 2 bolts in it, and fish it into the frame, having the bolts drop thru. You can use a steel plate and tap holes so the bolts don't have to be welded, etc.

You might have to take the front bumper off to get to the front opening of the frame horn.

.

A lot of very GOOD info in HWYSTR455's post above.

You will have to remove the Front Bumper to do the job correctly.

If you install something WRONG you can't blame the hardware used or the parts used.

Never had an issue with the HO Racing "BIG FRONT BAR" WHEN you install the proper parts correctly using the proper tools.
Been on the car for many years without an issue.

I have a spare 1-1/4 bar if someone need one.

Tom V.

[64speed]

Local fab shop is gonna put threaded plate where the holes are. Apparently this is a problem with Factory stock jeeps

[64speed]

Local Jeep fab shop drilled out the holes one size bigger, dropped bolts down thru the frame and tacked the bolts in place for 15 bucks. Now I have sway bar studs LOL. Just gotta put it back on

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Local Jeep fab shop drilled out the holes one size bigger, dropped bolts down thru the frame and tacked the bolts in place for 15 bucks. Now I have sway bar studs LOL. Just gotta put it back on

That's how ya do it! Sometimes the strongest fixes are the most simple.

I did the same on my TA. It's rock solid.