[tstroud]

If you use either the one piece or two piece seals you will need to remove the serrations on the crankshaft in the seal area or it will eventually leak. Ask me how I know.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by tstroud

If you use either the one piece or two piece seals you will need to remove the serrations on the crankshaft in the seal area or it will eventually leak. Ask me how I know.

Serrations on the crank?? What was the purpose? Do you have a picture?

[79 Phoenix]

Thanks Baron! -- I did check out the crank on the Street section... The guys they’re very helpful with info. 100% sure I have a 71 crank and 99% sure it's a 350 crank. Now I will check out the block... which I know is a 350 block because of the bore. I also know the heads are 94's.
I know a lot of these things are basic but are a needed education for me.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

The date codes decipher like this :

A201 = Jan 20 1971
B120 = Feb 12 1970
C302 = March 30 1972
D071 = April 07 1971

and so on , etc ...

[79 Phoenix]

Okay, Numbers are as follows:

VIN# = 233371P160219

Body build date = 05C which I understand means May 3rd week (05=5; C=3rd)

Engine block date code= E21 = May 2, 1971

Engine block VIN# 21P 160219

Transmission VIN number = 21P 160219

Transmission date code = B21 = February 2, 1971

So, it looks like all the numbers make sense that everything is original!

[79 Phoenix]

I found another 400 on craigslist that posted today... It's a 76 which I know are not the most desirable blocks but sounds like it shouldn't need a lot of machine shop work... I asked several questions and his answers are below...

He was asking $1800 for both engine and transmission... However, I see ad is already gone so it may already be sold. But what do you guys think of a later 400 like this? It sounds stock and it has 6X heads... probably quite tame... ANY THOUGHTS?

1. Was rebuilt before I got the car , which I bought from second generation engineering shop in NJ right before Covid. Has rebuilt starter, rebuilt alternator , cam bearings ,timing chain,etc
2. I believe its bored 30 over
3. Pretty much stock
4. The rope seal leaks it’s 2 piece stock Pontiac and they are known to leak ,I would put a new one piece rope seal solve the leak issue. Doesn’t knock smoke or tick runs great. It has a Quadrajet on it I would change to Holley unit personally.
5. I removed it because my friend convinced me to go to a newer fuel injection LS motor which I still regret doing, I should’ve kept this drivetrain in cost me a lot of $ to changeover and now no going back.
6. Would like to sell the drivetrain as a whole.
Thanks for your interest in it any other questions let me know I’ll try and answer best I can

[Mister Pontiac]

Look at the right side of the main case. You will see a cast in date code on the case body, a standard 4 letter/digit combo that indicates the date code.

Just above that on a machined pad, there will be the last part of the VIN stamped into the smooth surface. It should look just like the VIN stamped onto the engine block.

The picture below is my 72 GT M-13. Notice the VIN stamped into the smooth surface, and just below, cast into the case is the date code. In my case, D122. That translates to April (D), 12, 1972. My car was built the first week of May 72, and the VIN matches, so it's the original to the car.

Hope that helps.

[79 Phoenix]

Yes, seems very high. I blew up the photo of the top of the piston and see what may be a .040.

I'm almost tempted to go get the $500 one but what if I get there and find it's not really a 400? It could be but without pictures, who knows?

So I will keep working and keeping my eye open for the right engine.