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#1
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Rally Gauge Cluster Conversion issue(s) - 69-72 GTO
Ordered and installed the Ames rally gauge cluster conversion for my 70 gto, which did NOT have factory rally gauges, just the warning lights. Ames part number A258RK. https://www.amesperf.com/parts/60060/
Believe I have everything plugged back in under the dash properly/as it was at time of dash removal. But, possibly missed something. Went to test everything tonight - gauge backlighting works, gauges seem to respond to key “On”. Rotate key to “Start”, and have nothing. Another thing - when turning on “high-beam” headlights, the right signal indicator (green arrow) light comes on solid. With a left signal I get the proper dash indicator light but a right signal gives no dash light. Car drove into the garage prior to this install with no issues starting. I did make sure the ignition switch was plugged in. Dash was removed for Vintage air system installation, and installed this rally gauge cluster conversion at the same time. I didn’t get to spent much time trying to diagnose it yet, as I had my 3-year-old crawling all over me and the car (and she wanted to be under the dash with me as well). In a quick search, I see others mentioned potential ground issues, which could have something to do with the lights, but the ignition? Anybody ever used/installed this on a GTO? Any tricks to installation?
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#2
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The dash wiring harness is a little different for the Rally gauges. There is a way to use your existing harness by doing a slight modification to it. I don't remember what it is but if you do a search it might be posted somewhere on this forum.
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#3
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Did you swap the the 5 (tan) and 7 (brown) wires in the harness and unplug the green wire going to the column?
Old thread with pics when I did the swap: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=696769 The high beam/turn signal issue sounds like a ground problem, but maybe it could be a wiring issue. Is the red high beam indicator turning on in the gauges like its' supposed to when you have the high beam switch turned on?
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#4
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It sounds like OP has the conversion rally gauges - they are specifically engineered to work with the regular instrument cluster harness (non-rally).
From OPG: “The conversion assembly includes a special printed circuit board that directly plugs into the factory warning light dash harness with no modifications necessary.” https://www.opgi.com/gauges-accessor...hoCWs0QAvD_BwE I have them on my 69 and everything works minus the accuracy of oil pressure and coolant temperature. So I read temperature off the Sniper EFI panel and added fuel and oil pressure gauges in space for clock.
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears ‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: work in progress |
#5
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Yes - this was the “conversion” kit from Ames, “plug and play” deal.
Spoke with an Ames tech yesterday, unfortunately they couldn’t offer much help for this issue. They say there’s a slim chance the cluster may be faulty, but I doubt that’s the case. They had no advice on things to look for, to try, or how to test the unit. I’ll try to do some wire investigating. But, admittedly, that’s not my strong-suit… and, if I have to pull everything out/apart, then at that point I’m considering just updating the cars wiring all together while it’s all apart, with something like this kit from American auto wire: https://americanautowire.com/collect...iac-gto-510540 Just curious -anyone know if the ignition system power/signal actually runs through the gauge cluster?
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
#6
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Did you change the sending units also?
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
#7
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Quote:
The vendors that sell these say to use the sending units for rally gauges. In my case, they haven't been anywhere near accurate.
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears ‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: work in progress |
#8
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Quote:
Based on this: Quote:
The fact that the "On" or "Run" position on the ignition switch powers the gauges suggests you have the panel wired as intended. There may be other issues related to your blinker, but I don't think any of this should mess up your starter. Where is your NSS? Is it on the column or on a shifter? Regardless, see if you can make sure it is working. Forgive me if I'm wrong and sending you down a rat-hole... Mike |
#9
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Respect to the neutral safety switch, on a factory manual trans '69+ it will be above the clutch pedal, little harder to access than the auto version far down & on top of the column. Def something to ck.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
The Following User Says Thank You to 'ol Pinion head For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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My car originally had dummy lights but I added rally gauges and switched the 2 wires to make it work back in the 80’s. I recently installed an American autowire harness in my 69 and I am now having the same issue with the high beam indicator and the right turn indicator. I must have done something wrong as it worked with the original harness just fine. This winter I’ll pull the dash and figure it out.
I would also check the neutral safety switch or the clutch safety switch as the instrument cluster has nothing to do with the starter operation. Just jump the two connectors and see if the starter works then adjust as necessary to make it work properly. |
#11
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Figured out both my issues.
As for the dash indicator lights - studied the shop manual, which showed a breakdown of the plug that goes into the back of the gauge cluster. Long story short - I just had to move some pins around and got it straightened out. Hardest part was finding the info in the shop manual and comparing it to what was actually in the car. After I figured out how to remove a terminal from the “plug”, it didn’t take 10 minutes to actually get the job done. Seems to haven’t corrected all the issues there. As for the starting issue - y’all nailed it. Neutral safety switch wasn’t plugged in. Just overlooked it, finally found it unplugged hiding above the steering column. Plugged in and now have ignition signal. Thanks for the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Matt 70 GTO 400 4-speed "Turbos make no noise and leave the line like Baby Diarrhea!" - GTOGeorge |
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