[grivera]

Glad it appears a resolved issue without unnecessarily digging into the engine.

[mysticmissle]

Originally Posted by mrennie

Started engine tonight to change oil & filter. Let it run for 20 minutes at idle with AC running and got good and hot, still no ticking. Valve adjustment seems to have done the trick. Fingers crossed!

which oil and adjustment method did you use? from the top or the bottom? thanks

[grivera]

From OPs opening post:

“Took PS valve cover off last night and decided to readjust valves using the method Cliff uses, bottom out plunger of each lifter, using a feeler gauge between the valve and rocker (I chose 0.020"), and locked them down when lash was gone then removed feeler gauge.

I marked the rocker nuts on most valves and checked how many turns I had originally tightened them down, and most were around 7/8 turn from zero lash, however #8 exhaust was 3/4 turn from zero. I then started readjusting and ensuring that once the lifter stopped bleeding down and the pushrod just stopped turning, I locked the nut (with feeler gauge in place).”

[mrennie]

15W40 oil

[78w72]

Originally Posted by mrennie

Started engine tonight to change oil & filter. Let it run for 20 minutes at idle with AC running and got good and hot, still no ticking. Valve adjustment seems to have done the trick. Fingers crossed!

Good to hear the ticking improved... but just an FYI, 20 minutes idling is not anywhere near fully heat soaked, take it for a long drive doing some higher rpm pulls on a hot summer day, that will get it fully heat soaked to confirm the level of tick.

Also on aluminum head engines, the heads expand some when fully hot that will reduce the lifter preload some, part of why they tick more when fully hot, so adding a little extra preload on alum heads might help the issue.

Oil psi seem good, if the ticking is still there its worth trying a thinner oil...

[mrennie]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Good to hear the ticking improved... but just an FYI, 20 minutes idling is not anywhere near fully heat soaked, take it for a long drive doing some higher rpm pulls on a hot summer day, that will get it fully heat soaked to confirm the level of tick.

Also on aluminum head engines, the heads expand some when fully hot that will reduce the lifter preload some, part of why they tick more when fully hot, so adding a little extra preload on alum heads might help the issue.

Oil psi seem good, if the ticking is still there its worth trying a thinner oil...

I will do that. The main thing is that the tick was there once at warm idle, and was consistent after driving it. Now it is gone, so once I get the starter fixed I will take a drive and put it through the paces