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#1
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tap em out with a hammer
trick is when putting new ones in I find is once you put the new one in the frame slowly twist it until you feel the knurl line up with each othe then hold it in place,,,, stack your washers on the thraeded end put a nut on NOT the original and snug it up and pull it into the frame.... if you just randomly put the new bolt in and snug it down often the bolt will just spin in the frame because you knocked the highspots off that wer going to hold the bolt still |
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#2
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C-clamp with a socket works great to remove the studs. You can also use a tie rod or ball joint tool. Not sure a wheel stud tool will get in there.
A C-clamp or other tool might get around the steering shaft, but disconnecting from box is not a biggie. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#3
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An air chisel with a sharp flat edge bit on the shank near the head of the bolt will walk those bolts right out in a few hits. No need to remove the steering shaft. If you have no air chisel a long cold chisel, and hammer will do the same thing. The chisel needs to be sharp to get a bite on the bolt shank.
Pull the new ones in with a non locking nut with spacers as has already been mentioned. Lube the threads as well as the serrations to aid pulling the new bolts in. Most all GM bolts are a 7/16" coarse thread. Old flat rate mechanic trick, time is money when you work flat rate. If the frame brackets will not hold the serrations to keep the new bolts from turning, a couple spot welds with the bolt in tension will suffice. Just a suggestion but that's how I'd attack the problem.
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