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#5
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Thanks, I was hoping to convert to that system when i change out my exhaust to ram air manifolds and have access "space" to the distribution block on the frame. Right now, I'd have to drop the headers and all that jazz in the garage and I just thought I could buy the hold off valve and use my car. Everything else on the car brake wise is brand new and replaced. every hose caliper , piston pad, shoe , springs , fluid. It didn't leak anything last time I drove without but the front brakes held and the car would not roll forward on a incline. So the valve must be required. the rod in the booster is same size as the day i got it. booster works fine.
I agree I think the new valve is a better idea and I have all the stuff to hook it up waiting but I'd like to use my car. I've been having some shoulder problems so I can't do the header job myself. I read the last link where shurkey mentioned that that you need more than 10 psi to bleed it with a power bleeder. How the vendor says he just gravity bleeds them and it works , I don't know. Maybe he was using the "inline tube" and not pv 68. I hope the next valve works . Feel like hooking a line up when I pick it up and putting dot 3 in it and seeing if it gravity bleeds through before even taking it home. I mean it had to be defective , i'm sure pressing the pedal car not running and the valve not letting anything through is more than 10 psi. should of just returned it then. have a good long weekend!
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69 Gto, 390 posi gears,th400 w/jim hand converter/406 pontiac/#64 HEADS/ 10:1 compression/ 190 PSI with/ TRW 160 thou domes / hooker headers 1 7/8, PRW 1.5 rockers, 405 Crower Springs, Holley 750 vac with proform upgrade, Performer RPM on points / 284 H Single Pattern Crane |
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