[JLMounce]

Yeah you’re using high offset modern wheels, possibly with a spacer. The corvette stuff is designed around this type of wheel.

I spoke with Tobin extensively about my brakes but not even his smallest c5 setup would fit inside the 17” torque thrust II’s that I was running at the time.

The TTII’s are really problematic because not only do the spikes curve inward right after the mounting pad, but there is also a step in the barrel of the wheel right where the larger caliper of the c5/c6 setup sits.

I wanted to buy his stuff for all the reasons you listed, but it just wasn’t going to work.

I ended up with a Wilwood 13” Forged Super Lite and 12.19 Forged Dynalite system on my car and I’ve been happy with it. I can’t get parts at orielly’s but I can still get parts quickly from Wilwood direct or any of their retailers like summit.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Yeah you’re using high offset modern wheels, possibly with a spacer. The corvette stuff is designed around this type of wheel.

I spoke with Tobin extensively about my brakes but not even his smallest c5 setup would fit inside the 17” torque thrust II’s that I was running at the time.

The TTII’s are really problematic because not only do the spikes curve inward right after the mounting pad, but there is also a step in the barrel of the wheel right where the larger caliper of the c5/c6 setup sits.

I wanted to buy his stuff for all the reasons you listed, but it just wasn’t going to work.

I ended up with a Wilwood 13” Forged Super Lite and 12.19 Forged Dynalite system on my car and I’ve been happy with it. I can’t get parts at orielly’s but I can still get parts quickly from Wilwood direct or any of their retailers like summit.

Another thing people need to keep in mind is that some brake setups used fixed calipers. If you run the typical tapered wheel bearings, you can get pad kickback and shorter wheel bearing life. So the best route is to go to a newer bearing pack style spindle (upright). But for the rear, options are limited for bearing packs.

A Ford type sealed bearing works, but side loads are not handled as easily/efficiently as is with a bearing pack.

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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

...Yeah you’re using high offset modern wheels, possibly with a spacer...

The wheels I have on there now are 18X9.00 5X4.75 @00 offset with 5.0" backspacing for the front, the rear are 18X10.00 5X4.75 @05 with 5.70" backspacing.

I have both front & rear lips rolled.

I also have the inner fenderwells in the front trimmed per Herb Adams method.

There is no seat belt bulge in the rear of my car. Or not enough to have to mod it.


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[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The wheels I have on there now are 18X9.00 5X4.75 @00 offset with 5.0" backspacing for the front, the rear are 18X10.00 5X4.75 @05 with 5.70" backspacing.

I have both front & rear lips rolled.

I also have the inner fenderwells in the front trimmed per Herb Adams method.

There is no seat belt bulge in the rear of my car. Or not enough to have to mod it.


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Just out of curiosity I'm wondering why you had to make those modifications to the front lips and fender wells...was it a function of the wheels you were working with (backspace), control arms, or something else? I only ask because we're running 18X10s with 6.25 backspace in the front of my son's 79 and didn't have to do any of that and have no interference and good turning radius. Just a stock subframe with Ridetech control arms (running 14" Wildwood Aero 6s).

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, at the time I rolled them, wheel selection was very limited. Once you go past a certain width & offset, tubular control arms are needed.

I may at some time change the wheels, but for now, it's what I've got, and am trying to finish the stalled project. Plan also to switch over to SpeedTech uprights.

Aero 6s are very low, and close to the rotor, so depending on the wheel, you can run them. Baer also makes a very low profile caliper, but they do have a wider body, so the go-to is the Aero 6, or now, the SX6R.

What wheels are on that 79?


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[Gator67]

We went with Forgeline (TA3), which are kind of spendy, but they're also made to order, so within limits, you can take wheel size/availability out of the equation when selecting suspension and brake components. On my last two projects I ordered wheels after most everything was installed so I had the opportunity to measure to determine the optimal wheel size, bs, etc. Forgeline asks for info on brakes, spindles, etc. to help ensure things will work, but lots of other factors can create interference or limit turning radius that folks don't always take into account--e.g., tie rod ends, upper control arms, ride height, etc.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Gator67

We went with Forgeline (TA3), which are kind of spendy, but they're also made to order, so within limits, you can take wheel size/availability out of the equation when selecting suspension and brake components. On my last two projects I ordered wheels after most everything was installed so I had the opportunity to measure to determine the optimal wheel size, bs, etc. Forgeline asks for info on brakes, spindles, etc. to help ensure things will work, but lots of other factors can create interference or limit turning radius that folks don't always take into account--e.g., tie rod ends, upper control arms, ride height, etc.

This is the way to do it, measure & order once all is done. And yes, spendy, but this is how you are able to get the largest tire under the car as possible.

Forgeline are very nice, and understand they are great to work with.

The wheels I have now are cast, and limited backspacing offerings at the time. I wanted more backspacing, but couldn't afford much more than what I spent then, so that's what I ended up with.

Drop spindles are a no-no for a number of reasons, but that's where you run into the highest chance of tie rod contact.

I will revisit wheels after the car is on the road, best I can do.


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[HWYSTR455]

I tell people all the time to do 18s, it's really a no-brainer, especially once you start looking at tires. 18 tires are a good sidewall/height combo, and can even go into 'half' aspect ratios like 45s, 55s, 65s, etc. Instead of doing weight jacking, you can dial corner weights in with tire aspect ratios.




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