[JLMounce]

The second gen GW anti-squat mounts aren't as high up into the pocket as the PTFB mounts. I believe however this is because the GW mount also needs to handle a Cat5 leaf if so equipped and going too high would limit the twist available to that spring before the eye crashed into the floor.

If you're NOT going to run cat5 leafs, the PTFB bracket is likely better. If you are going to run cat5 leafs, you probably want/need the GW mount.

First gen's have no such option, the leaf mounts are much shallower and do not accommodate any type of anti-squat changes without floor modifications.

[HWYSTR455]

That's a bummer.


.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by jhein

Well, I talked with Dave at PTFB and I may be going down a rabbit hole. I was going to just do the rear suspension with sub frame connectors and solid sub frame bushings. Now I'm thinking about doing the whole front suspension too, possibly including G-bars. All because I asked about tires. LOL. And not only that, but with 17" wheels, I can get bigger front brakes too.

I guess I've already crossed the line into a restomod, I'm not sure of the exact definition of a pro touring car is but I might be getting there.

Build what YOU want and enjoy it!

As another option to look at, I have CPP upper and lower arms on my 70 with Viking double adjustable coil overs and Proform steering linkage/hardware. I've been very happy with it in the limited amount of time I've street driven my car. My rear suspension is more geared towards drag racing so there's probably not a lot of stuff for me to recommend out back. My suggestion would be to buy a complete package from one of the big vendors that is proven and just bolt it all on.

https://classicperform.com/shop/comp...sid=Og2ZRAMm1G

[jhein]

I've decided that I'm going with the PTFB stuff for several reasons. First, their stuff seems to work. Also, there are very few permanent modifications. Also, the front suspension comes in stock height, which I want. The rear suspension also comes in stock height but also has adjustment up to 1.5" lowering, possibly 2" with the anti squat brackets. That's good because I would like the rear a little lower than it is now, but maybe not with the new tires which are taller. I'll also be doing a rear disc brake conversion, mainly for axle retention since I know that rear discs don't necessarily stop any better. For the front brakes I'm leaning towards a Baer kit with 13" rotors. Then I'll be using the PTFB WS6 9" booster with a Baer master cylinder with an adjustable proportioning valve. Finally, I also like the idea of the PTFB G-bar. Seems like the combination of the subframe connectors, solid body mounts and the G-bar will really tighten up the front of he car.

For the tires, I'm starting off with Nitto 255/50/17 and 275/50/17. That's a 320 treadwear tire which is a little better than the BFG which is 400. If that's not enough then there are lots of 40 series 17" tires with treadwear ratings of 200 or less that I can try, including the Nitto drag radial. Or if I want the taller 50 series tire I can get the M&H tire.

That's it. And keep in mind that I'm not trying to turn the car into a full on pro-touring machine. Just an aggressive Restomod.

[w72]

Measure carefully before ordering front brakes. 5th and 6th gen Corvette rotors are 12.8" and they barely fit my 17" wheels. Service parts are very inexpensive, and the calipers have dust seals foe street usage which the Baer kits may or may not have. Kore3 is a great resource for anything brake related.

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by jhein

I've decided that I'm going with the PTFB stuff for several reasons. First, their stuff seems to work. Also, there are very few permanent modifications. Also, the front suspension comes in stock height, which I want. The rear suspension also comes in stock height but also has adjustment up to 1.5" lowering, possibly 2" with the anti squat brackets. That's good because I would like the rear a little lower than it is now, but maybe not with the new tires which are taller. I'll also be doing a rear disc brake conversion, mainly for axle retention since I know that rear discs don't necessarily stop any better. For the front brakes I'm leaning towards a Baer kit with 13" rotors. Then I'll be using the PTFB WS6 9" booster with a Baer master cylinder with an adjustable proportioning valve. Finally, I also like the idea of the PTFB G-bar. Seems like the combination of the subframe connectors, solid body mounts and the G-bar will really tighten up the front of he car.

For the tires, I'm starting off with Nitto 255/50/17 and 275/50/17. That's a 320 treadwear tire which is a little better than the BFG which is 400. If that's not enough then there are lots of 40 series 17" tires with treadwear ratings of 200 or less that I can try, including the Nitto drag radial. Or if I want the taller 50 series tire I can get the M&H tire.

That's it. And keep in mind that I'm not trying to turn the car into a full on pro-touring machine. Just an aggressive Restomod.

Cool stuff! When swapping out the rear brakes for discs make sure you get a kit that has some type of integrated or electric parking brake that works with C-Clip eliminators so you don't lose that functionality.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by w72

Measure carefully before ordering front brakes. 5th and 6th gen Corvette rotors are 12.8" and they barely fit my 17" wheels. Service parts are very inexpensive, and the calipers have dust seals foe street usage which the Baer kits may or may not have. Kore3 is a great resource for anything brake related.

Good advise.

There are some of the Baer Brakes line, specifically the classic series that are based off of the c5/c6 rotor and caliper.

When using a pin spindle knuckle that is original equipment on these cars, the rotor and caliper is pushed further towards the outside of the car. The places the caliper specifically beyond the mounting pad of the brake rotor. For the off the shelf zero offset wheels that are being looked at by jhein, this may pose a caliper interference to the face of the wheel.

Disc brake manufacturers like like Baer, Kore3 and Wilwood are kind enough to publish their wheel fitment guides and the OP should definitely grab these and measure against the wheels he is looking at.

I can almost assure that the Year One Rallye II's that the OP is looking at will not fit with Kore3 brake systems, and likely not the Baer classic series either.

My recommendation would be to use the Wilwood 12.19" brake setup both front and rear. The reason for this is that based on how the OP is wanting to use the car and also noting that he still likes the 15" wheels sizes, this brake setup allows him to go in reverse on his wheel/tire package and is still a decent upgrade over the factory disc/drum setup he's using.

These will provide the stopping power and repeatability needed for a performance street car. They are more budget friendly and because they use a hub, fit the caliper inboard of the mounting pad and able to accept common wheels for these cars.

Front:
https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeK...no=140-8582-DR

Rear:
https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeK...o=140-13511-DR

It's also a matched set that won't cause any issues with caliper or sizing mismatch.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Cool stuff! When swapping out the rear brakes for discs make sure you get a kit that has some type of integrated or electric parking brake that works with C-Clip eliminators so you don't lose that functionality.

I'm not doing c-clip eliminators. The calipers are going to be my axle retainers. I'll check out Kore3.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by w72

Measure carefully before ordering front brakes. 5th and 6th gen Corvette rotors are 12.8" and they barely fit my 17" wheels. Service parts are very inexpensive, and the calipers have dust seals foe street usage which the Baer kits may or may not have. Kore3 is a great resource for anything brake related.

Yes, thanks! I haven't ordered any parts yet except for the wheels and tires. I'm not doing the work myself so I have to see when my guy can get me in. It may not be until Spring time.... ugh.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Good advise.

There are some of the Baer Brakes line, specifically the classic series that are based off of the c5/c6 rotor and caliper.

When using a pin spindle knuckle that is original equipment on these cars, the rotor and caliper is pushed further towards the outside of the car. The places the caliper specifically beyond the mounting pad of the brake rotor. For the off the shelf zero offset wheels that are being looked at by jhein, this may pose a caliper interference to the face of the wheel.

Disc brake manufacturers like like Baer, Kore3 and Wilwood are kind enough to publish their wheel fitment guides and the OP should definitely grab these and measure against the wheels he is looking at.

I can almost assure that the Year One Rallye II's that the OP is looking at will not fit with Kore3 brake systems, and likely not the Baer classic series either.

My recommendation would be to use the Wilwood 12.19" brake setup both front and rear. The reason for this is that based on how the OP is wanting to use the car and also noting that he still likes the 15" wheels sizes, this brake setup allows him to go in reverse on his wheel/tire package and is still a decent upgrade over the factory disc/drum setup he's using.

These will provide the stopping power and repeatability needed for a performance street car. They are more budget friendly and because they use a hub, fit the caliper inboard of the mounting pad and able to accept common wheels for these cars.

Front:
https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeK...no=140-8582-DR

Rear:
https://wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeK...o=140-13511-DR

It's also a matched set that won't cause any issues with caliper or sizing mismatch.

Thanks for that. Very helpful. The Baer Classic is exactly what I was looking at:

https://www.baer.com/products/brake_...parts/4301677R

I'll check out the Wilwoods and the fitment guides.

[b-man]

I would download and print the disc brake profile templates from KORE3 and try a few of them inside your wheels before you make a decision on brakes.

Calling Tobin at KORE3 may provide some additional insights on fitment as well.

[HWYSTR455]

I posted clearance info on the C5/C6 brake setups using the 'bandit' 18" wheels, can search it here, used templates and all, with pics.

The issue is the calipers, not really the rotors, just to say, but Wilwood calipers are 'flatter' on the outer face, which helps with wheel clearances.

Kore3 & Tobin is a very high-up-there go-to, straightforward guy, can't say good enough about him....

.

[HWYSTR455]

Street tires on big HP cars, it's kind of a waste to put expensive tires on, they go so quick. And the stickies go much faster, and suck in the rain. 1 exit ramp will convince you of that.

Just really need 2 sets of tire if you want to do 'both' well...

.

[twilightTA]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I posted clearance info on the C5/C6 brake setups using the 'bandit' 18" wheels, can search it here, used templates and all, with pics.

The issue is the calipers, not really the rotors, just to say, but Wilwood calipers are 'flatter' on the outer face, which helps with wheel clearances.

Kore3 & Tobin is a very high-up-there go-to, straightforward guy, can't say good enough about him....

.

I have C5/C6 front brakes from Wilwood on mine and they fit fine with 17s. I have Wilwood D154s in the rear.

I used the CPP C5 brake kit initially but the only good part in it was the spindles. Everything else in the kit was crap. Had the bearing fail over and over again and went with the ZR1 hub/bearing setup on mine. The CPP brakes / calipers and pads were cheap Chinese parts too.

Agree - the Kore3 guys are great too.

[HWYSTR455]

CPP stuff is crap, search for my post about the spindles and control arms for an A body, I ditched the entire setup and went to SpeedTech (ATS) spindles and aftermarket knockoff GW tubular arms, changed the ball joints and all is great.

Like I said, the Willwood stuff MIGHT fit, the issue with the C5/C6 calipers is they bulge in the body and some wheel will strike/rub the caliper.

I have the Bear brakes now, and with 18s, the 12.88s are close, doubt the 14s would fit. My wheels have 'spokes' that bow outward kind of like Torqure Thrust wheels, which is why I believe they fit. Any wheel that has straight spokes and/or are cast will be close or not clear the calipers. (attached pic isn't very clear, but you get the idea)

My only complaint about the Baer setup is it uses modified drum spindles, and uses typical tapered wheel bearings, and going to SpeedTech spindles is a much better option (HD bearing packs). C5/C6 stuff fits wit the SpeedTech spindles, you can buy 'vette caliper/bracket/rotor kits from anywhere.

Also have to look at tire sizes, you may not find matching front/rear tires in the sizes you need. I got stuck with Nitto 555s that were 265s/285s just so I would have a staggered same type set. (I could have went larger in rear)

Tobin (Kore3) is very knowledgeable, tell him what wheels you have, he can give you excellent advice, before you buy brakes (since you already have the wheels).

I've been down your' path, started with the 'typical' bolt on reasonably priced parts, and found I should have went another way from the start. But you will figure it out in time, and there really is nothing wrong with that path, it's all fun above 'stock'.

.

[JLMounce]

Yeah you’re using high offset modern wheels, possibly with a spacer. The corvette stuff is designed around this type of wheel.

I spoke with Tobin extensively about my brakes but not even his smallest c5 setup would fit inside the 17” torque thrust II’s that I was running at the time.

The TTII’s are really problematic because not only do the spikes curve inward right after the mounting pad, but there is also a step in the barrel of the wheel right where the larger caliper of the c5/c6 setup sits.

I wanted to buy his stuff for all the reasons you listed, but it just wasn’t going to work.

I ended up with a Wilwood 13” Forged Super Lite and 12.19 Forged Dynalite system on my car and I’ve been happy with it. I can’t get parts at orielly’s but I can still get parts quickly from Wilwood direct or any of their retailers like summit.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I've been down your' path.... and there really is nothing wrong with that path...
.

That reminds of the saying "you can't get there from here" LOL.

[jhein]

So there. All I need is a spacer.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Yeah you’re using high offset modern wheels, possibly with a spacer. The corvette stuff is designed around this type of wheel.

I spoke with Tobin extensively about my brakes but not even his smallest c5 setup would fit inside the 17” torque thrust II’s that I was running at the time.

The TTII’s are really problematic because not only do the spikes curve inward right after the mounting pad, but there is also a step in the barrel of the wheel right where the larger caliper of the c5/c6 setup sits.

I wanted to buy his stuff for all the reasons you listed, but it just wasn’t going to work.

I ended up with a Wilwood 13” Forged Super Lite and 12.19 Forged Dynalite system on my car and I’ve been happy with it. I can’t get parts at orielly’s but I can still get parts quickly from Wilwood direct or any of their retailers like summit.

Another thing people need to keep in mind is that some brake setups used fixed calipers. If you run the typical tapered wheel bearings, you can get pad kickback and shorter wheel bearing life. So the best route is to go to a newer bearing pack style spindle (upright). But for the rear, options are limited for bearing packs.

A Ford type sealed bearing works, but side loads are not handled as easily/efficiently as is with a bearing pack.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by jhein

So there. All I need is a spacer.

Again, with fixed caliper systems, using a wheel spacer means you need to also adjust the caliper.

Some brake systems, like ones that use off the shelf 'vette rotors, makes it difficult to replace wheel studs (depending on the hub). Some wheel studs are only available in specific lengths too, and you may have to trim them.

Many wheels base hub-outward dimensions on 4", and only the backspacing changes as wheels get wider. There's a reason for that.

Don't get me started on the whole 5x4.75/120.65 bolt patterns either. But generally, it's not an issue.

.