[78w72]

Im late to the updates on this but what I would have suggested when removing the pan is to inspect things 1 step at a time before pulling the main cap & rms... when you first pulled the pan off that would have be the perfect time to look around the rear pan seal to see if any oil was in that area or how it was sealed up. Did you happen to notice that when the pan first came off?

As for what to do with the motor, I dont think doing some basic machining like honing for new rings & checking line bore etc with new bearings and rms would cost anywhere near a whole new rotating assembly at $2800 + shipping/tax, that would then require the same machine work & cleaning of the block or a new block. Your engine runs or ran great beside the leak... if it were me I wouldnt abandon that block over a leak that can be fixed by a shop that knows what they are doing or has done lots of pontiacs. There should be other good shops in your area or within a couple hours drive time. Just dont want to see you open a can of worms to get a new block & start from scratch or buy a new rotating assembly when your parts/block are or should be perfectly fine to use.

Hope you get this figured out

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by 78w72

. if it were me I wouldnt abandon that block over a leak that can be fixed by a shop that knows what they are doing or has done lots of pontiacs. There should be other good shops in your area or within a couple hours drive time.

Hope you get this figured out

I agree but I believe this is his fifth go around with the RMS. Obviously something is going on with the seal cavity in this particular block. I'm sure the issue can be addressed. I'm not sure a sixth shop would necessarily be better than the first five

[78w72]

Originally Posted by PAUL K

I agree but I believe this is his fifth go around with the RMS. Obviously something is going on with the seal cavity in this particular block. I'm sure the issue can be addressed. I'm not sure a sixth shop would necessarily be better than the first five

Think he said 3 times, this would be 4th. 2nd try was a rope seal...

But I agree something may be going on with the cavity, you'd think after 3 tries 1 of them would have sealed decent.

[HWYSTR455]

You guys are missing the bigger picture here, this is way more than just a seal issue. Bearings don't go down to copper from a leaking seal. Looking at the bearings who cares about the seal, that's the least of the problems.

Shiny - The original poster is gtorich, JLMounce is talking about one of his previous engines. But the OP did mention that's how they looked when he took it in for a re-ring.

If they didn't do anything about the bearings when they took it apart to do the rings & seal, then they have no biz doing anything on engines in general. If they were that bad and they didn't change them, they are straight up incompetent.

I wonder what the bores and pistons look like.

IMO it's a full rebuild thing at this point. So you might as well go with a new rotating assembly, possibly block too. If you're going to have a block checked/machined, and you suspect issues with the one block, might as well just have the other block machined and avoid any potential issues.



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[HWYSTR455]

Did you look at the bearing pics? That's not just a leak.

Bare minimum, line hone, crank checked/turned, rods at least checked (most likely resized), bearings, might get away with honing, new rings, and at least check balance. Add it up and compare.


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