[Rocky Rotella]

As stated, the LS1 is pretty durable, so I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd probably change the oil in case there is any oxidation/thermal breakdown that might compromise its lubricity.

I will say, however, in general coolant flush/fills can be tough on these cars. The way the coolant system is designed, it's difficult to fill the block after a flush. Without a bypass to bleed the system, the will be an air pocket in the upper portion of the block until the t-stat opens and the radiator contents can circulate into the block. The best method for filling the block is using a vacuum fill where you put a vacuum on the coolant system and suck coolant in from a reservoir like a 5-gallon bucket.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by Rocky Rotella

As stated, the LS1 is pretty durable, so I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd probably change the oil in case there is any oxidation/thermal breakdown that might compromise its lubricity.

I will say, however, in general coolant flush/fills can be tough on these cars. The way the coolant system is designed, it's difficult to fill the block after a flush. Without a bypass to bleed the system, the will be an air pocket in the upper portion of the block until the t-stat opens and the radiator contents can circulate into the block. The best method for filling the block is using a vacuum fill where you put a vacuum on the coolant system and suck coolant in from a reservoir like a 5-gallon bucket.

I always crack one of the bolts on the front steam ports when filling one. You'll hear the air hissing out as you're filling it. Once you start seeing it dribble out of the port, tight the bolt back down.

Works great. Never have air pocket issues doing that