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#1
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I have a 68 AT console and I was wondering if anyone has purchased the aftermarket burlwood decals and installed them on their console? WAs wondering if the aftermarket decals look like the original and if in general you were happy with the install and overall appearance? Thx.
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#2
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Ive been after that for years
found enough of it to do a couple but it was sure pricey,(not for sale). the reproduction stuff is cheesy. |
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#3
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Are they making the Burlwood replacement panels? When I was looking could only get the woodgrain which was wrong for my car.
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#4
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NPD and a couple places (through eBay) are sellling the pre-cut Burlwood decals that you can glue to your console or dash center piece....I believe its a vinyl type decal. I have some I bought from NPD about 5 years ago and it wasnt an exact duplicate of the original but close. I wondered if NPD has updated it in the past 5 years or if the eBay guys (some place in Oregon, route66 or something on eBay) have updated to better matching decals.
I was in the parking lot of a local store this week and looked at the interior of a newer Lexus and saw that they had the Burlwood design on some of their dash and console pieces that looked almost exactly like that on the 68......I wonder how they are doing theirs? |
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#5
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I looked thru my Classic Ind. catalog recently and saw where the console and the console compartment door are being reproduced and sold now with the "correct burlwood grain" coating (the PRNDL shifter faceplate too). Anybody know how to figure out who is making these parts and what they are using for the Burlwood coating? The burlwood (decal/vinyl/whatever) must be being produced/available somewhere?
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#6
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Quote:
__________________
keith k 70 Trans Am RA III / T400 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue 70 Trans Am RA III / M20 / Lucerne Blue / Sandalwood 70 Formula RA III / M21 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue |
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#7
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I think your right....I skimmed a couple of articles that said recently (past 10 years or so)Cadillac and Lincoln are using real wood on some of their models now too. Looks good on the Lexus thats for sure.
I'm trying to look into using real Walnut Burl Wood veneer on my 68 console parts.....I might buy a small piece of the real veneer and see if I can make it work and look good. Might be too much work though..... |
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#8
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I purchased the decals I believe from PY years ago. I was happy with them although they are somewhat lighter in color. The fit was good but you I had to use the 3M heavy adhesive on some of the ends that wrap around and under to make them stay put. I also developed a 1" bubble due to direct heat from sunlight on one of the door ends. I am going to inject some adhesive into it with a hypo needle, and lay a flat weight on it for a week.
__________________
Steve Karew |
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#9
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Steve....I if you get a chance, I would be interested in seeing some pics (if you have them and its not to much trouble to post) of your console in your car to see how it looks with the vinyl Burlwood you installed. I have those same vinyl Burl decals and my only hesitation to installing them was because, as you said, they are a bit lighter than the original......but if they look good... that would be the easiest route for me to go.
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#10
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I have a picture of it installed on the dash in my 69. I bought it from PY a month ago and really like it.
Trent
__________________
The thick CLOUD of tire smoke ,the SMELL of burning rubber,and the CHEER of the crowd ....PRICELESS. $90.00 fine for an awesome burn-out,worth every penny... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI7beXh7xW8 |
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#11
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Quote:
That looks nice on your dash Trent! |
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#12
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Thanks! I refuse to show the turned engine vinyl I had on it before. lol,
Ok, I experimented. I failed.
__________________
The thick CLOUD of tire smoke ,the SMELL of burning rubber,and the CHEER of the crowd ....PRICELESS. $90.00 fine for an awesome burn-out,worth every penny... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI7beXh7xW8 |
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#13
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I have the same problem, but I was going to buy the new console complete from Classic Ind. However, they will offer only the 1969 as an automatic. I need a 4 speed. I asked if they could just provide it with out a cut out, they said no. Also, I have been waiting over 1 year since they put it in the catalog, and it is still not available. If there is a material to re-cover mine that is correct but just a little light, I would sure like to know where to buy it so I could just move on until something better is available.
Thanks - Jim |
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#14
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I think that reproduction console has been a "Coming soon!" item for about 4 years now. I feel sorry for anyone that pre-paid. Ames Perf and others also listed it in their catalogs, but no one has received one.
__________________
1959-1980 Pontiac Window Sticker Reproductions : http://www.pontiacwindowstickers.com My Bio: I am currently writing articles for POCI's Smoke Signals magazine and enjoy promoting and discussing the history of the Pontiac Motor Division. |
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#15
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Ah Ha....well I guess there is nothing new on the Burlwood applique stuff for the console then.....so back to working with whats available.
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#16
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Quote:
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#17
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I picked up a small piece of this stuff on epay......When I get it Im gonna see how it looks in the car.....it could look decent or end up looking real "cheesy" so I'm not sure. I kinda liked it in the picture on epay....but you never know what your gonna get on there so....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT |
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#18
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I think you found a good side job. It looks like you do excellent work.
How did you get exact cuts around the parts? Did you cut them after they were applied or before. I don't know the first thing about vacuum bagging parts. Seen the myth buster guys vacuum some carbon fiber parts for a one man flying contraption they were putting together, but thats about it. Would you have any pics of that process? Would contact cement or 3M spray adhesive work? |
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#19
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U really have to use an epoxy adhesive or other glues recommended for wood to metal to get the wood to stick with a strong bond. So the contact adhesives arent really going to work well.
After, softening the wood veneer (I used the veneer softener from the veneersupplies site) the veneer wants to buckle and has a hard time staying perfectly flat.....thats where the vacuum bagging really came into play.....forces the veneer to conform to the object. Even in their original sheet form, the veneer sheets arent perfectly flat....some of the knotted areas of the grain dont like to lie flat. Now if you want to just clamp a piece of veneer to a flat surface then you probably wouldnt really need a vacuum bagging system....U could probably get it to work with just clamps and using flat wight to weigh it down well. For curvature and corners though the vacuum bagging is the way to go. I precut the veneer close to the shape I needed it to be....leaving excess in the right places so it would fold over the edges when vacuum bagged. It helps to cut it close and them make slits in the wood near corners to help the wood fold under the vacuum....that keeps it from cracking. It took me a couple tries on a few parts to get it to where I was happy with the results. Some of my first tries cracked a bit too much.....so I re-did them. Mine arent perfect but I was pleasantly happy with how they have come out so far. I dont have any pics of my vacuum bag process......I fanagled some equipment together when I did some small carbon fiber parts a few years ago. |
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#20
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Quote:
I have never held veneer. Is it like wall paper or cardbord? Is it easy to cut with a razon blade? The curves around the ashtray tell me it must be pretty flexible. I was thinking on the ashtray and console lid that the veneer wrap completly around the edges. I love the shine look your has with the clear coat over it. What epoxy did you end up using to apply it? Is the vacuum process just as easy as buying a special vacuum bag and renting a vacuum pump from autozone? I have been wanting to buy one for air conditioning anyway. |
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