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  #21  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:25 PM
"QUICK-SILVER" "QUICK-SILVER" is offline
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Father&Son73T/A,
Looks like every line for our cars has been reproduced EXCEPT THAT ONE.
Take plenty of pics and record plenty of measurements, just in case you have to fab one up yourself.

With temperature holding steady at cruise then heating up at idle, sure sounds like clutch on fan isn't tightening up when it's suppose to.

If you do have to change clutch on fan, make sure replacement is thermostatic type. It may be "twice the price" but the heavy duty model is well worth it.

Agreed, good protection in the oil pan is money well spent. I am at a cross road on that,
"Kendall GT-1" (The Real McCoy) has been my main stay since the mid 70's. I bought every case I could when Kendall went out, got 3 cases left and worried about it.

I'ld cage that bird or cut its flight feathers before it took off again, would hate to see a post about a phoenix and flames.

  #22  
Old 06-19-2008, 10:36 PM
Father&Son73T/A Father&Son73T/A is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER" View Post
Father&Son73T/A,
Looks like every line for our cars has been reproduced EXCEPT THAT ONE.
Take plenty of pics and record plenty of measurements, just in case you have to fab one up yourself.

With temperature holding steady at cruise then heating up at idle, sure sounds like clutch on fan isn't tightening up when it's suppose to.

If you do have to change clutch on fan, make sure replacement is thermostatic type. It may be "twice the price" but the heavy duty model is well worth it.

Agreed, good protection in the oil pan is money well spent. I am at a cross road on that,
"Kendall GT-1" (The Real McCoy) has been my main stay since the mid 70's. I bought every case I could when Kendall went out, got 3 cases left and worried about it.

I'ld cage that bird or cut its flight feathers before it took off again, would hate to see a post about a phoenix and flames.
Thanks for the info on the clamp,I'll figure something out.
I'm goin with the Heavy Duty clutch for sure,and the "Blue Bird" is nesting comfortably in her new California Noah cover

__________________
1973 T/A Buccaneer Red L-75 A3,83k mi. #'s match
1979 T/A Atlantis Blue W-72 WS6 23k mi.survivor#'s match
1999 T/A Navy Blue 60k mi....babied
1968 442-gone but not forgotten
"Oh,you can think about it,.....but don't do it!"
Sheriff Bufford T.Justice
  #23  
Old 06-21-2008, 08:56 AM
Father&Son73T/A Father&Son73T/A is offline
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My question though is with the bracket holding the line,is it repro'd?
The line I know I can keep from breaking it's the clamp holding it is what I am concerned with.

__________________
1973 T/A Buccaneer Red L-75 A3,83k mi. #'s match
1979 T/A Atlantis Blue W-72 WS6 23k mi.survivor#'s match
1999 T/A Navy Blue 60k mi....babied
1968 442-gone but not forgotten
"Oh,you can think about it,.....but don't do it!"
Sheriff Bufford T.Justice
  #24  
Old 06-22-2008, 09:09 AM
ve3wireless ve3wireless is offline
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Default Trans Am Thermostat

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonneville Joe View Post
I'm going to throw this one in here..

My car was cooling right at 160 all spring. Once the hot summer months hit it was running near 220. I replaced the thermostat with a new 195 as that is all the parts store had and it would warm up to 220 and not budge. I took the thermostat out completely and the car runs a notch under 160. Even sitting at a stop light in 95* summer heat it will barely get to 170 and then once I start moving it drops right back down again. Had the same issue with the '67 Bonneville I had last summer. That car didn't have a gauge but it would puke water everytime I parked it. Took the thermostat out and it ran fine, even when we had the week or so of 105* august days last summer.
*********************************************

Hi Joe,

I took the plunge & REMOVED my thermostat last Friday --- and so far, so good.

I still haven't given it the "acid test" of extended highway driving, but that'll come, too...

I delved a little deeper into the official GM Shop Manual for my 1978 Trans Am, & came up with a couple of really "...quick & dirty" (but VERY easy & effective) checks that one can readily perform on a T/A, to ensure whether there might be a temperature reading fault with the guage, the sensor, or any of the associated wiring...

Specifically, locate the temperature sensor on the engine block, and then DISCONNECT the wire which attaches to it (i.e. create an open circuit) --- with the ignition "on", your guage should read as closely as it can go to the left side of the scale which indicates "maximum coolness" (in other words, whatever the lowest temperature might be indicated on the scale --- for our cars, it's shown to be 100F).

If the guage worked as indicated, you must next install one end of a temporary jumper wire from the wire lead which goes to the guage, and connect the other end of this jumper to ground, leaving the sensor dis-connected (i.e. create a short circuit) --- with the ignition "on", the guage should swing hard right, i.e. toward the "maximum hot" end of the scale. In the Firebird, this is indicated as being 260F.

If the guage reads properly after these two steps, then suspicion should rightfully fall upon the sender itself. If you did not achieve the readings indicated by the two tests, then suspect either the guage itself, or its associated wiring.

The GM shop maual goes on to say that the guage may also be checked by substituting a resistance source in place of the sender...specifically, the guage in the Trans Am should read 100F at 350-ohms, 220F at 68-ohms, and 260F at 46-ohms...but this may well be beyond the scope of what you're trying to achieve here, i.e. determining if it's the guage, or the sender, that's giving erroneous readings.

It's all very interesting, and NOT all that complicated, either...

Eddy
Ontario, CANADA

  #25  
Old 06-22-2008, 02:29 PM
"QUICK-SILVER" "QUICK-SILVER" is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Father&Son73T/A View Post
My question though is with the bracket holding the line,is it repro'd?
The line I know I can keep from breaking it's the clamp holding it is what I am concerned with.
dilema (condensed): A situation that requires a choice between equally unfavorable options. or an argument that presents a choice of two or more alternatives, each of which contradicts the original intent.

Looks like finding an original stud and nut will be easier than replacing the clamp.

option (finesse required), hammer and very sharp small chisel. Go straight down on top of nut, cutting it or at least spreading it open enough to be removed. With penetrating oil on it, the tapping action itself may break it loose.

Does it show that I'm not able to do too much today.

  #26  
Old 06-22-2008, 08:57 PM
Father&Son73T/A Father&Son73T/A is offline
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Was thinking about that,just was wondering about the clamp,I figured it was like finding Osama bin looser.

__________________
1973 T/A Buccaneer Red L-75 A3,83k mi. #'s match
1979 T/A Atlantis Blue W-72 WS6 23k mi.survivor#'s match
1999 T/A Navy Blue 60k mi....babied
1968 442-gone but not forgotten
"Oh,you can think about it,.....but don't do it!"
Sheriff Bufford T.Justice
  #27  
Old 06-25-2008, 12:54 AM
ta man ta man is offline
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I think it will be your clutch fan.Simple test when the car is hot does it draw air hard through the grills?If not your fan clutch is shot.Your engine is stock your stock cooling system should work.

  #28  
Old 06-25-2008, 05:02 PM
Father&Son73T/A Father&Son73T/A is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta man View Post
I think it will be your clutch fan.Simple test when the car is hot does it draw air hard through the grills?If not your fan clutch is shot.Your engine is stock your stock cooling system should work.
Ordered a new GM one from YO yesterday,.....150 bones!
It's worth it though......new hoses,thermostat,system flush..etc...etc...

__________________
1973 T/A Buccaneer Red L-75 A3,83k mi. #'s match
1979 T/A Atlantis Blue W-72 WS6 23k mi.survivor#'s match
1999 T/A Navy Blue 60k mi....babied
1968 442-gone but not forgotten
"Oh,you can think about it,.....but don't do it!"
Sheriff Bufford T.Justice
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