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60man · 02-03-2009, 10:07 AM

Fwiw: I lost my 462 a coulpe of years back due a #3 cylinder collaspe!! Cracks in block were present from DS M mount/rail to point of #3 cylinder wall destruction. Even near boss on outside of block.I had been using solid mounts. Cracks came from water jacket side. Think I posted pics here?? I have since went with a allpontiac.com front plate + stock soft mounts.
I think a torque limiting "something" is a must on high HP motors..

Half-Inch Stud · 02-03-2009, 10:32 AM

Makes a fella ponder the 3 Freeze plug blockss vs 2 freeze plug blocks huh.

I really think cast block metal continues to work better in cyclic compression, rather than cyclic tension.

Keith Seymore · 02-03-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mzbk2l

And on a light-hearted note in remembrance of Larry Davis, here's a picture of his. Notice anything special about it?

Uhmm....it's for a "reverse rotation" engine?

mzbk2l · 02-03-2009, 12:13 PM

Yep. He did such nice work on that car, and was justifiably proud when he'd post pictures here. He took some ragging over that one, though, if I recall correctly.

1qikta · 02-03-2009, 07:17 PM

Front and rear driver side mount. I fabbed up some straps using stock frame holes. Seems to help the 60's a lot and better weight transfer. The block bolts (gr 8) completely bottom out in their holes

grandville455 · 02-03-2009, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1qikta

Front and rear driver side mount. I fabbed up some straps using stock frame holes. Seems to help the 60's a lot and better weight transfer. The block bolts (gr 8) completely bottom out in their holes

Does that just mount to the original motor mount bolt?

1qikta · 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grandville455

Does that just mount to the original motor mount bolt?

No, The bolt I am using is much longer but the same bolt hole's (each end) Both bolts run thru the fabbed strap original mount then into the block..

It was rough on the stock driver mount ripping two previously.

60man · 02-03-2009, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1qikta

Front and rear driver side mount. I fabbed up some straps using stock frame holes. Seems to help the 60's a lot and better weight transfer. The block bolts (gr 8) completely bottom out in their holes

That's a very neat job. Effectively makes it a soild mount. Your fab skills are good. Can you remove lower bolts for street use? If you check out block bolt location you can how close it is to bottom of the rail. My old demised 462 had cracks behind the DS mount by front bolt and went from rail to bottom of bore on inside....I think fatiauge does in the 50+ year old blocks. Filling the block would help..IMO

1qikta · 02-03-2009, 09:00 PM

Thanks Troy,

The new engine block I have now is hard filled. Maybe it will last. The idea was to still look stock from the top and not see the mod.

unclescratch · 02-04-2009, 04:33 PM

I can't believe you guys are still using chains !!!! Diamond Jim has the right idea. I used a short length of pushrod welded to the driver's side stock motor mount. Like he said: best of both worlds. Go for it!!!

60man · 02-04-2009, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclescratch

I can't believe you guys are still using chains !!!! Diamond Jim has the right idea. I used a short length of pushrod welded to the driver's side stock motor mount. Like he said: best of both worlds. Go for it!!!

Spare the motor mount and waste the block!

At least on strip only cars.
Again....JMO
I ran a chain for years and then went with soild mounts...wasted block shortly afterwards....coincidence ???
Had to do it over again I would hard block it..

'69ragr · 02-04-2009, 06:49 PM

Unclescratch and Diamond Jim's method sound great can you give me a better description on how and where the bolt or pushrod is welded. Can this be done with motor already in car?
Thanks,

Jim Hand · 02-04-2009, 07:47 PM

'69,
Check out the thread at:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=402971

It may not be possible to adapt this mod to all engine mounts. But if you drive on the street, it is a wonderful compromise, providing normal rubber damping at light throttle, but a positive solid connection when the engine is loaded.

Jim Hand

60man · 02-04-2009, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Hand

'69,
Check out the thread at:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=402971

It may not be possible to adapt this mod to all engine mounts. But if you drive on the street, it is a wonderful compromise, providing normal rubber damping at light throttle, but a positive solid connection when the engine is loaded.

Jim Hand

Couldn't agree more Jim for a hot street/strip car. I used it myself for a while before going strip/race only.
Take care Jim.

Jagtec1 · 02-04-2009, 11:24 PM

Here is a link to a pic of the mount modification:

http://216.178.81.108/forums/showthr...t+modification

DiamondJim · 02-05-2009, 12:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Hand

'69,
Check out the thread at:

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=402971

It may not be possible to adapt this mod to all engine mounts. But if you drive on the street, it is a wonderful compromise, providing normal rubber damping at light throttle, but a positive solid connection when the engine is loaded.

Jim Hand

I defer to the master. Thanks Jim Hand for this and a lot of other great ideas! -Jim

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