[triathlonx13]

I'm looking to replace the body bushing on a 1979 TA. The car is in great shape - but the bushings are gone. I want to do it as simple as possible with little disassembly of the car. Does anyone has any ideas? Has anyone done this before?

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[bobzdar]

Yes, jack up the car by the body so that the subframe is pulling down on the bolts and do them one side and one bushing at a time so you don't mess up the alignment. Jacking the car up by the body pulls on the bolts so you don't spin the blind nuts; if you spin one of those it's a real PITA to get to and replace. I'd try to get some penetrant in there and let it soak if possible.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by bobzdar

Yes, jack up the car by the body so that the subframe is pulling down on the bolts and do them one side and one bushing at a time so you don't mess up the alignment. Jacking the car up by the body pulls on the bolts so you don't spin the blind nuts; if you spin one of those it's a real PITA to get to and replace. I'd try to get some penetrant in there and let it soak if possible.

Yup, ditto this. Use jack stands to hold up the car on one side at a time. PB Blaster etc. and a 1/2" Breaker Bar with socket and extension work with some muscle if you don't have compressor and air tools. 3 Ton Jack under the frame will work to lower the subframe to remove old bushing(s) one at a time, and then raise it back to original location.

Think safety and logical jacking and stand locations that won't flex to body and frame too much to cause any damage to the car or you.

[triathlonx13]

Thanks bobzdar & Alvin - this is very helpful. I'm ordering the bushings in the next couple of days. Once I get them I will approach the removal of the old bushings as you explained (makes sense) and let you know how I did.

Again thanks for your input.

Chris

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[Ben M.]

Don't use an impact gun to remove the old bolts as it can snap them if they are thin in the middle. Then a few hour job just became a few day job with cutting and welding involved. Use a breaker bar and lots of penetrating oil. Nice even, constant rotations on the breaker bar to get the bolt loose and out. Might want to look into replacing all of them while you are doing it too (especially ones that are thin).

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Ben M.

Don't use an impact gun to remove the old bolts as it can snap them if they are thin in the middle. Then a few hour job just became a few day job with cutting and welding involved. Use a breaker bar and lots of penetrating oil. Nice even, constant rotations on the breaker bar to get the bolt loose and out. Might want to look into replacing all of them while you are doing it too (especially ones that are thin).

I agee with Ben. Since you live in the "Rust and Road Salt Belt" use only a breaker bar...so no bolt snappage- arghhh!!! That would suck!

[Ben M.]

Yeah, the pictures of some seriously thin ones that guys have removed make me wonder how they didn't break!

[TransAm525]

Another important note, which as not been mentioned, is the frame alignment. If you bushings are shot, then chances are your frame may have shifted slightly. The two mounts below the firewall have alignment holes. You need to make two pins, about one foot in length each, from solid bar stock. I can't remember the pin diameter, but you can measure the holes and buy the stock at Lowes or Home Depot (I'm out of town right now, otherwise I would measure mine for you). Once all the bushings have been replaced (and bolts loose), install the pins through the frame holes and into the body receptacles. Pry and push the pins as necessary to achieve the correct alignment before tightening the body mounts. Once the pins are removed, you should be able to look through the frame hole and see the body receptacle holes perfectly aligned.

[triathlonx13]

Originally Posted by TransAm525

Another important note, which as not been mentioned, is the frame alignment. If you bushings are shot, then chances are your frame may have shifted slightly. The two mounts below the firewall have alignment holes. You need to make two pins, about one foot in length each, from solid bar stock. I can't remember the pin diameter, but you can measure the holes and buy the stock at Lowes or Home Depot (I'm out of town right now, otherwise I would measure mine for you). Once all the bushings have been replaced (and bolts loose), install the pins through the frame holes and into the body receptacles. Pry and push the pins as necessary to achieve the correct alignment before tightening the body mounts. Once the pins are removed, you should be able to look through the frame hole and see the body receptacle holes perfectly aligned.

Good Point. In the past I have used one of my deep well sockets (forget which size) and it was the perfect diameter.

[triathlonx13]

WOW !!!!!!! It couldn't have went better !!! Me and a buddy of mine approached the job taking ALL your advice. With YOUR input and the condition of the car... IT WORKED!!!

Ben M.
“…..Don't use an impact gun to remove the old bolts as it can snap them if they are thin in the middle. Then a few hour job just became a few day job with cutting and welding involved. Use a breaker bar and lots of penetrating oil. Nice even, constant rotations on the breaker bar to get the bolt loose and out. Might want to look into replacing all of them while you are doing it too (especially ones that are thin).”

Bobzdar
“…jack up the car by the body so that the subframe is pulling down on the bolts and do them one side and one bushing at a time so you don't mess up the alignment. Jacking the car up by the body pulls on the bolts so you don't spin the blind nuts..”

Alvin
“…Think safety and logical jacking and stand locations that won't flex to body and frame too much to cause any damage to the car or you…”

TransAm525
“…If you bushings are shot, then chances are your frame may have shifted slightly….” Thank God the alignment was good - But it was good to be able to verify.

I've done many frame off sub-frame cars & full frame cars but have never done something like this. I very much appreciate you guys taking the time to share your knowledge. Again - thanks

Chris