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  #21  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:45 PM
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For $4500 you can actually get a pretty nice car if you shop around. I would go with something front wheel drive or all wheel drive and make sure it has anti-lock brakes.
Camry, Accord, Civics or the Fords/GM's in the same category would be great.
I did a search on Autotrader in Rhode Island with the price limit set at $4500 within a 100 mile radius.
Over 1000 cars came up, have fun:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/search...=1251931691800

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  #22  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:46 PM
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For that price range, I always look at the Taurus. It is a LOT of car and goes for that kind of money for about a 2002, maybe even newer depending on miles. There's usually a ton of them at Autotrader.com.

They will have lots of room, good fuel economy, all the bells and whistles, good reliability, and most of them were adult driven.

When I'm hunting for cars in that price range, I go to autotrader.com, plug a price up to ($5999 you'll negotiate down) and see what pops up. I stick to Private Selllers and look for one owner cars but you can select whatever parameters you want.

Regardless of what you choose, I recommend you try to find a rust free southern car (Tenn, Carolinas, Georgia). Take my word on this, it would be worth flying down and buying one that has been in the south always compared to one that has spent even 1 winter in the north on salted roads.

  #23  
Old 09-02-2009, 07:13 PM
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My vote is for a Saturn(the small one, not the rebadged Opel). You can get a '00 or slightly newer in your price range. They run forever, get great mileage(mine gets 38 on highway), and are real dependable. I know of several people with these and we all swear by them.

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  #24  
Old 09-02-2009, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiedlerh View Post
For reliability and low maintenance costs, I'd be looking at a 96-up Honda Civic or maybe an Accord if she needs more room. Common as dirt too. Get a stick shift version and you'll eliminate 90% of the people who might want to borrow it. College cars sit outside, sometimes aren't driven often, and only get maintained when brought home. Needs to have good tires and a new battery, along with wheel locks and hood that can be locked. A fancy sound system will only get stolen. Most kids probably really want a Jeep or a 2-seater convertible anyway.
Honda's are good cars. The problem is even a with a 200K example they still want too much for them because it's a Honda. Ive seen beat to hell ones that were mechanically suspect bring more $$ at an auction then other makes in better shape and a lot less miles.

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  #25  
Old 09-02-2009, 08:49 PM
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2nd vote for a Saturn. Like the previous post said, gets great mileage and very reliable. I got my stepdaughter a red 99 SC2 3-door coupe for $2000. Low miles. Guy just needed the $$$.

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  #26  
Old 09-02-2009, 09:24 PM
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Lots of great ideas. Thanks.

We did a test drive today. Actually it was a fun time with my daughter. Very level headed girl.

The good,

2000 Buick Century 49,000 miles for $4500. This was one owner car in excellent shape.
When I got home I research the car.

The bad,

These cars have a major issue with the tranny for years. so where off to look at a ford 500. I haven't researched it yet but this is turning out to be a rewarding father daughter adventure for now anyway.

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  #27  
Old 09-02-2009, 10:14 PM
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The trans is not a problem on low mileage cars like that, only a problem if it has high miles and has been neglected. A 2000 model with only 49K sounds like a garage queen.
Keep the fluid and filter changed regularly and it will go 300,000 miles. If you drive where it's hot put a trans cooler on it.

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  #28  
Old 09-02-2009, 10:27 PM
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Cut and past research,
low mileage cars too.
The transmission on my 2000 Buick Century with V-6 engine begins to shift rough after about 15 minutes of driving, especially when going up an incline. There is a whinning noise similar to that of a popwer steering pump when it is low on fluid. When I stop and turn off the car for a few minutes and then resume the car shift fine until another incline or extended peroid of driving. Transmission fluid was clean and at correct level. Changing the fluid at 36000 miles did not fix the problem. An internet blog on this problem shows many 2000 Buick Century owners have the same problem. The blog indicate the pressure control solenoid is defective and if replaced be sure to use a Borg Warner pcv. The blog also indicates that a shift kit 1-2/2-3 can be added to the accumulator which will fool the computer and cure the problem. Dexron VI ATF is also recommeded because it can handle more heat. Some recommed ATF to about 1/8 inch above full line. What is the least expensive way to cure?

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  #29  
Old 09-15-2009, 06:54 PM
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Ok guys I'm going to look at a 2002 ford taurus ses.24valve engine with 76'000 miles for $4000.

The guy that has the car replaced all the springs, ball joints and inner tierod ends. Thats the good. The bad he only replaced one strut mount and the car needs three more.

What kind of job is it to do these strut mounts. Rockauto listed a spot weld cutter in my search so that worries me a bit.

Thanks

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  #30  
Old 09-15-2009, 07:41 PM
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1994-1996 GM b-body (lt1 350) Buick Roadmaster, Chevy Caprice, or Cadillac Fleetwood. Damn, can't believe no Pontiac model. These are big (safe), comfy, RWD, dead reliable, 25 mpg highway, excellent power. Great old cars and for $4500 you can get one in mint condition with no more than 50k or 60k on it. Some of the best cars ever made. You'd have to be sick to consider a Honda next to one of these babies. NOT IMHO.

  #31  
Old 09-15-2009, 07:48 PM
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Can't go wrong with a 2001 or 2002 Ford Escape. If you look long enough, you can find one with under 100k miles. They ride high, go well in the snow (FWD or 4WD, but FWD should be enough) and the 3.0L Ford Duratec engine in bullet proof.

And the kids can pack a ton of stuff in there for when they go back and forth. We have one that we bought used and are pretty happy with it (and thekids don't think it's a turd, either.

  #32  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:18 PM
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Are you looking to replace the struts? Or the strut mount bearing? I really don't know how likely either would be to have failed.

But these videos might help you understand at least the front strut assembly and the repair process.

http://www.ehow.com/video_2327555_re...ront-coil.html

http://www.ehow.com/video_2327562_re...ing-front.html

Looks to me that the hard part would be to compress the spring. I don't see anything about cutting spot welds. I recall that spot welds had to be cut in order to do a front wheel alignment on my '88 Taurus (permanent alignment was a "feature"). But there was no need to redo them after the realignment (sorry don't remember anything else about it, this was more than 12 years ago).

My '93 Taurus still rode (I won't say very well) on original struts after more than 12 years and about 120K miles IIRC.

Does the SES have the rear deck spoiler? Top of the line I think? My '93 3.0L did 27-28 mpg on the highway. My son has an '03 (some sort of special black Ford Centennial Edition). Not sure of the fuel economy on the newer ones. He paid too much in my opinion earlier this year (about $5k) because it had 155k miles. But I've seen the car, it's solid and he has had no problems with it.

I still think it is the best used car value out there.

  #33  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:16 PM
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1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee, NOT the Grand...

Bulletproof 4.0 inline AMC 6

Superb Aisin AW4 auto

solid 8.25" Chrysler diff

These commonly go 300k miles without care, and the sky is the limit if the body stays solid and you maintain them. Cheap and easy to work on. Not the typical MoPar reliability issues. My '99 has just under 100k miles. Second set of Goodyears from new, original battery, A/C still blows cold, runs perfect. Only replaced a fog lamp switch, and steering stabilizer, other than tune ups and maintenance. I love this one so much I just purchased a one owner 64k mile '01 for my mother. My sister had a '00 that gave her 150k trouble free miles.

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  #34  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77 Canamman View Post
1997-2001 Jeep Cherokee, ..... Not the typical MoPar reliability issues.
Because they were designed by AMC, not Chrysler. Lots of people love them and don't have many issues with them. BTW the first generation Grand Cherokee was mostly designed by AMC too.

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  #35  
Old 09-16-2009, 02:30 AM
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Thanks guys all good cars but this taurus seems to be a cream puff with 76000 miles.
With the Ford Duratec engine. I think I can get it for $3900

John V,

Just replacing strut mount bearings. I think there is some kind of camber kit as well, not sure. Thanks for the videos.

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  #36  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:09 AM
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Tell him you'll give him the $4000 if he replaces the other 3 struts.

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  #37  
Old 09-19-2009, 11:00 AM
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Hyundai, Hyundai, Hyundai!!!!!! Very good quality cars for stupidly cheap prices. The bad rep they earned way back is long gone. My current DD is a 2002 Elantra bought new by my mother with 200k and have only done normal maintenance. It even still sports the original rear brakes. I swear for reliability its like a Honda at half the price. My parents currently have an 06 Sonata with 100K and zero problems. It is their 4th new Hyundai. I will be upgrading to their Sonata soon when they get another new Hyundai.

  #38  
Old 09-20-2009, 05:39 PM
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If she can drive a manual trans., an '03-'05 Cavalier w/a 5 spd is hard to beat. I had a '03 that was about the best daily driver I've ever had. Never had any problems of any kind. Quite comfortable IMO and had great AC. If they are driven with some care they will get over 40 mpg.

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