[x-bird2]

i have a 20 + year old box of the fender wiring retainer straps. aftermarket, but i used them in mine-- (mine were MIA) if someone would please put up a pic of an original, i'd like to compare it to what I have--that way i have an excuse for a drive--running out of fair weather days. )) I also have a lot of original used ones, but they're flat, much wider and the posts for the holes are spaced closer--i think those are A-body application.

[thefirebirdm@n]

Steve, just wanted to verify, what was the final procedure to install the fenders. I know the core support was in place already. Did you install the inner fender whells first and then the fenders or the fenders first and then the inner fender whells last. Sounds like the latter but I'd think that would be a nightmare to do without scratching everything.

I was thinking that most people bolted the inner fenders to the fenders first and then installed them as a set.

[njsteve]

The inner fenders were bolted to the fenders. The whole assembly was then bolted onto the car. Remember to remove the tire and wheel so the fender assembly will slide right into place without having to jockey it up and over the wheel. Also, tape all painted edges of fenders and doors so they don't get ruined during installation and door gap adjustment.

[thefirebirdm@n]

Steve, thanks for the clarification and the reminder on the tires. From your last posts it sounded like you installed fenders first and then inners and I was thinking, "whoo that had to be a pain in the a$$!!".

IIRC the shims are required on the lower rear portion and at the top where the fender bolts to the cowel correct?

[njsteve]

As for shims, it really depends on your car. The driver's side needed several on the bottom but the passenger side didn't need any at the bottom. Both sides had thin shims at top and near hinge area against firewall. There was a thicker stack inside the door jam on both sides, to space the fenders out to align correctly with the door.

[thefirebirdm@n]

Steve, interesting info. Having a hard time visualizing the mounting points in the door jambs. Have to look the over again. What did you use as a starting point? One shim in each location or no shims at all?

[njsteve]

The body man did the initial shimming and fitting and then painted the fenders off the car. The door jam bolt goes in by the lower edge of the windshield, above the upper door hinge. When you open the door you'll see it. A lot of people leave that bolt out...and then wonder why they can't get the fender to line up properly.

[njsteve]

Picked up another random part I needed: the RFI shield for the distributor. This is the two-piece metal shielding that goes over the points to reduce the static interferance on the the radio. It does actually seem to work, since I ran the car after installing it and the radio noise was reduced significantly.

[LeighP]

Always learn something...never even seen one of those covers before.

[njsteve]

That was a standard piece in just about all late 60's to early 70's GM distributors. Unfortunately it always got thrown out during the first points change.

The repair manual has an unintentionally comical spin on it, as it reads: "RFI shield must be reinstalled to prevent customer annoyance."

I guess that means put it back in, or the customer will annoy you.

[LeighP]

lol.....I'll bet listening to the RPM through your AM radio would get a touch annoying after a while.

[njsteve]

Not much going on at the moment. Still waiting for more panels to be painted. The bodyman had to get a car finished and delivered last week to free up the paint booth.

Here are some photos of the flares and scoop in primer. Hopefully some paint on these parts next week.

[keith k]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Not much going on at the moment. Still waiting for more panels to be painted. The bodyman had to get a car finished and delivered last week to free up the paint booth.

Here are some photos of the flares and scoop in primer. Hopefully some paint on these parts next week.

Lots of extra little bits and pieces to smooth and paint on a T/A!

Imagine, if you had a Formula you'd be done (and have more money still in your pocket...)

[OVERULD]

Originally Posted by keith k

Lots of extra little bits and pieces to smooth and paint on a T/A!

Imagine, if you had a Formula you'd be done (and have more money still in your pocket...)

That made me laugh out loud - very funny

This has been a fun thread to follow - can't wait to see the end result. Car is looking awesome.

BJ

[njsteve]

That's like the signs that say: "If you lived here you'd be home already!" :-)

Hey, if anyone has a nice 73 SD Formula, I'd be happy to trade!

[x-bird2]

Steve;
Are you still looking for the wiring straps? see my post above, if you have a pic of an original, post it here so i can compare what i have.

[njsteve]

A buddy over at the Yenko.net site, refinished the case for my alternator. I never liked the paint that the original rebuilder put on the case to make it look like metal and once I stripped it off, I wasn't too happy about the dark crusty appearance of the original pot metal either. This guy was kind enough to offer to run the case through his metal refinishing tumbler process and it came out awesome!

Here's the results after I got the case back today and reassembled everything. Looks just like it was hot off the assembly line. Even the original date/part number stampings look crisp and clean like they were just done 14,177 days ago. :-)










and back in place:

[165th]

Steve, the alternator and engine compartment look stunning. What is the date of your alternator, it's not quite visible in the picture?

Are all '72 alternators are open face? I know by '73 they were closed face.

[njsteve]

April 5, 1971. This is the 55 amp, 1100928 alternator. This model was for the cars with either a/c or rear window refogger. The cars that had both a/c and defogger had a larger alternator that was in a fixed position and used the idler pulley setup.

[70RAlll]

The metal plating on the pulley and the fan, let me guess... silver zinc?? I ask this because they look nice, but I have always noticed the extra shiney look of zinc vs cadmium... GM still used Cadmium until late,late 72 into 73 when the EPA issued one of their 1st orders which effectively banned cadmium's widespread plating use to only use by aeronautical plating.. Your alternator looks great.. Someone asked about open face vs closed face.. The 928/927 series were used on many cars. I have seen some with open face anmd some without.. My guess is the "performance" cars got the open face and the non performance cars got the closed face.

Also, FWIW... the original alternator fans were galvanized zinc plated, not zinc or cadmium.. I have tried 6 different galvanized platers and none can make the fans work, all of the turns/bends make the zinc( that is what galvanizing is) clump up. Originally these were stamped out of sheets of galvanized metal. Ever seen the metal poles in the electrical dept. of home depo? the galvanized poles with the small discolored irregular shapes? yes, that is what the original fans were plated with. I have 2 original ,NOS in the box fans and they have this finish. Plus, every original fan I have taken off an altenator, under the pully ,in the protected area, still have remenants of this galvanizing.. The dullness of white cadmium, comes as close to the original as you will get..
NJsteve....I have a stack of original alternator fans that I have had done this way. If you want to swap out your fan for one of the ones I have( it will look more original), just let me know.. I will be glad to send you one and if you like it, send me back your original..

Just my thoughts on alternator fans and pulleys.. Plus... the nuts should be cadmium also...Steve, I have some already plated also you can have.,..