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#1
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Carlsbad? That track (RIP) was almost on the coast.
Worse day racing at LACR was 112° - and even the POCI drags at Auto Club Dragway a couple of years ago it was 105° with 149° track temp. ...and I had to walk to school both ways up hill, in the snow, without shoes
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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#2
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Mick, I remember about, oh, 25 years ago when the Pontiac boys were up at LACR, I was staged against a pretty, blue, 67 Goat running open headers.
I was running low 14's, he was mid 12's. I got a great light, and that's the last I heard for quite a while ![]() Carlsbad, the day I was racing, was in the high 80's, maybe even 90.
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#3
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Sorry that you had to find out with shrapnel. I have a metal fan on my Summit 100A alternator. I have noticed that it has a him in it like a scrape, but it works fine and I ALWAYS carry a spare in the trunk.
Is there a difference in pitch or number of blades on the plastic one? Why does the plastic one offer more cooling?
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#4
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I am not sure if the plastic one is more efficient, but it is a completely different design than the metal one. It looks more like an impeller than a fan.
We'll see if it doesn't burn up! I'm gonna pick up a spare just in case. I can change the thing in about 10 minutes. Far better than putting the car in the body shop for months, not to mention the cost differential. |
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#5
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Great that you got it resolved. As for the DCControls method, I believe his thinking is to control the temp going into the engine, taking into account the efficiency, or lack thereof, of the radiator.
I'm just the messenger, but I wanted to share what I believe is his method.
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#6
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Karch - just messin' with ya a little. Temps at Carlsbad would get pretty nasty with the wind blowing in from the east.
As far as the 144S - that plastic alternator fan is pretty good sized. If you have an 8" crank pulley and 2-1/2" alternator pulley the plastic alternator fan is turning 19.200 RPM at 6,000 engine speed. I wonder if that is over the maximum design speed?
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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#7
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Quote:
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Darby 74 Grandville 2Dr 455 c.i 4550# 2011 1.60 60 ft,[email protected]@117.74 2017, 74 firebird -3600 lbs (all bests) 1.33 60 ft, [email protected] [email protected] M/T 275/60 ET SS Drag Radial 2024(Pontiac 505) 1.25 60 ft, [email protected], [email protected].... 275/60 Radial Pro's |
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#8
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Here is a thought, tripower, is there a lot of room for the air to flow out of the engine compartment? If there isn't a low pressure area in or at the back or bottom of the engine compartment it will not pull the air through the fan shroud.
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1970 "Real" Judge RAIII 4-speed, Atoll Blue w/painted white top. Mild RAIV headed 400 motor in now. |
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#9
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Quote:
I agree. You are so close.. There has to be something that you are missing. Socrates' is attached to a cold air intake system which might block more air, and he runs ICE cold in the same car. I think that the magic bullet is in your grasp!!!
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#10
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Quote:
Anyway, it's running fine now with the cooler weather. |
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#11
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Well, other than the hood, there is nothing blocking any exit.
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#12
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Quote:
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1970 "Real" Judge RAIII 4-speed, Atoll Blue w/painted white top. Mild RAIV headed 400 motor in now. |
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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I was adding Freon to the '67 cruiser yesterday with the idle around 1,600 RPM. There was a larger flow of air coming forward under the front bumper than was being pushed out the rear. This high pressure area would sure screw up the proper airflow through the radiator at speed.
I always wanted to add an air damn under the goat. I picked up a plastic air dam off an S10 and it's a little wide. I figure that it could run just in front of the tires and hook to the bottom of the radiator support. Keeping it flat black would make it pretty hard to see unless someone was looking under the car. Another idea I wanted to try instead of the air dam was a thin flat plate installed to the bottom of radiator support and running rearward past the sway bar and terminating at the front of the cross member. It could even have a 45° lip about 2" down at the back. Either one (or both?) of these additions should create a low pressure zone in the engine compartment and really suck the air through the radiator at cruising speed.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
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#15
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Quote:
You would never see it!!! Plus I think the 68 Firebirds have something like that. The sway bar never moves. I might try that the next time I have to remove the radiator. Mine is sweet, and cools AWESOME!!, but I will try anything if it helps....Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#16
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I'm going to add some info to this thread. For the non-OEM-AC guys (15 1/2" core), a Ford Contour dual fan works perfectly. Grandville, it looks like that's what you have (had?) judging by your pics in one post. The Taurus (and Mark VIII) fan is too large. I understand that the Contour fan flows a little less than the Taurus/Mk VIII, but still pulls some serious cfm. Here's some info from the DC Controls website:
Taurus Fan (15.5"H x 20.5"W x 4"D) Note that the fan itself is 17", which is larger than the 15.5" core height. Contour Fan (15.875" x 24.19" W x 3.4" D) Note no fan "overhang". ![]() A small amount of trimming along the top (or bottom) is required to fit the Contour fan, but it is minimal (~1/4"). I'm using a Flex-a-Lite variable-speed controller (like the DC Controls) with brackets I had left-over from an aftermarket trans cooler. The radiator is a two-1 1/4" row aluminium Mark7 unit. I may switch to a standard temp controller with a heavy-duty relay because it cycles the fan after I shut off the ignition (instead of the one 30-second run it's supposed to do), and seems to be running the fan only at part-speed (because I'm somehow getting hot now). Here's some pics of my setup: ![]()
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#17
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That does look like a nice set-up for a downflow radiator. Let us know the results. I am ALWAYS looking for ready spares!!
Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#18
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How did you you screw the brackets into the radiator hookemdevils22?
I was watching a 2 Guys Garage episode, and he drilled into the radiator and pressed in some kind of "nutsert". Is that what you did? How can you drill into those and not have to weld to assure no leaking?
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-- James Work '67 GTO Convertible "Koerner Built 413 500 hp with a Victor!.. I'll run a stock intake." '75 Formula 400 - Daily Driver - Running with my Home Built 455 and TH400 Details here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=588372 |
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