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  #21  
Old 06-02-2010, 10:19 PM
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Wynkerdink Wynkerdink is offline
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I had a chance to get at this today. I first drove it as is and then took the hose off the vacuum advance and plugged it. This solved the problem. I'll have to head to Napa and pick up a new one. Thanks everyone for helping and giving such good information! Almost makes me want to get another GTO just so I can putz with something.

The next step is to take care of what we're thinking is the bog. I found the set screw and adjusting screw, but didn't have time to do it tonight. I'll give it a shot this weekend and see if I can bring all of the power out of this old goat. Needless to say tomorrow is going to be a long day heading in to a 3 day weekend for me.

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  #22  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:01 PM
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My 67 ran terrible but idled good. Turned out a wire on the ignition switch was loose so when I drove the car the vibration caused a bad connection and I was getting weak voltage to the coil. I finally found it after taking the carb apart, replacing cap, rotor, wires, intake, fuel lines, and fuel tank. The wire finally fell off the day I sold the motor and it would not start. I hot wired the car by passing the ignition switch and the car went down the block sideways. It can always be something simple!

  #23  
Old 06-03-2010, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wynkerdink View Post
I had a chance to get at this today. I first drove it as is and then took the hose off the vacuum advance and plugged it. This solved the problem. I'll have to head to Napa and pick up a new one. Thanks everyone for helping and giving such good information! Almost makes me want to get another GTO just so I can putz with something.

The next step is to take care of what we're thinking is the bog. I found the set screw and adjusting screw, but didn't have time to do it tonight. I'll give it a shot this weekend and see if I can bring all of the power out of this old goat. Needless to say tomorrow is going to be a long day heading in to a 3 day weekend for me.
Great news! Thanks for keeping us updated on your progress. You run a points distributor, yes? The B20 or B26 vacuum can should set you straight, and most local parts stores will be able to get one for under $10. You could also weld up your current can to limit the travel/advance if so inclined. I'd avoid the aftermarket adjustable cans as I find their quality lacking. You want to run vacuum advance, as it greatly improves economy and engines tend to run a bit cooler with a little extra vac advance added, so don't leave it plugged forever. You simply don't want as much vac advance as you're getting now. The can is easily swapped with the distributor in the car in most cases, btw.

Good luck with the Q-jet tuning. Try not to pull too much hair out, or at least try to do so evenly

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  #24  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:00 PM
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Thanks for all the help so far!

Latest news. I picked up a new vacuum advance and started in on changing it out tonight. I got the old one pulled out and went in to start putting the new one on. That's when I noticed the hole that the rear screw goes in is broke off. I don't remember hearing a snap or anything like that, so I don't know what happened. Either way, it's gotta be fixed. I'm assuming this means I'll need a new distributor since that screw hole is cast into the bottom.

So now the question is what to go with. I don't mind running points, but this might be a good opportunity to go with HEI. Does anyone have some thoughts as to what's the best way to go?

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  #25  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wynkerdink View Post
Thanks for all the help so far!

Latest news. I picked up a new vacuum advance and started in on changing it out tonight. I got the old one pulled out and went in to start putting the new one on. That's when I noticed the hole that the rear screw goes in is broke off. I don't remember hearing a snap or anything like that, so I don't know what happened. Either way, it's gotta be fixed. I'm assuming this means I'll need a new distributor since that screw hole is cast into the bottom.

So now the question is what to go with. I don't mind running points, but this might be a good opportunity to go with HEI. Does anyone have some thoughts as to what's the best way to go?
If you're willing to invest, I would go the HEI way as it's a very simple upgrade. Otherwise, you could get a small drill bit and a small easy out and remove the broke of screw threads still in the dist. Easier to do this if you pull the dist obviously. Good luck

  #26  
Old 06-09-2010, 10:04 PM
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Attached are pics of the problem. I spent some time trying to research my options.

1. Get a distributor and put the points back on.
2. Get a distributor and go with the M&H Breakerless Ignition.
3. Get a HEI Distributor and put the points on the shelf.
and possibly 4. Have my machinist friend attempt to fix the the current distributor.

The more I look at alternatives and the various parts sites, the more I realize how little I know. Any help and opinions would be much appreciated.
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  #27  
Old 06-09-2010, 10:54 PM
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If this is a driver (non-stock distributor appearance is OK) then I'd go HEI. It's cheap, reliable and parts are easy to find. Get the advance curve dialed in and forget it. One wire hook-up, tach output, hotter spark, higher RPM range, no points bounce, etc. Points distributors are so dead, it's the latin of automotive electricals. Knowing them is a great learning tool for understanding the basics, but better tech is out there.

Go with a good brand HEI like most any of the ones Summit sells, not a parts store reman or junkyard jewel. Myself, I run a MSD ready to run billet unit, but they're pricy and overkill for your application. HEI fits the bill.

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  #28  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:53 PM
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Good pics. The vacuum assembly takes very little to hold it in place, and the good rear screw will do most of the work. There's enough lip left to hold the vacuum module in proper vertical alignment, and all I would do is chase the threads and use a little longer screw to get down in the remaining threads to keep the horizontal position steady. I'd use a little blue Loctite on the threads and go easy on tightening the screw down. This is just so non-critical, that I wouldn't be afraid to install it even just using only the rear screw. That end can't go up, it can't go down, and the pin holds it from moving left or right.

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  #29  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:34 AM
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I ordered up a DUI distributor for this yesterday. Hopefully it comes in sometime next week so I can install it and give my new timing light a try. I still plan on seeing if I can repair the old distributor and boxing it up just in case I want to go back to a stock appearance someday.

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