[motor29]

I just finished a front disc brake conversion. Everything up front is new power booster, master cylinder, hoses, lines and hardware. The driver side caliper is dragging , I had a very hard time bleeding the brakes. The passenger front works fine , I even replaced the master cylinder and caliper and it's still dragging. HELP, any suggestions would be very appreciated.

[n20ta2]

Sounds like trash in the line somewhere or the perportioning valve. Did you blow out the lines before installing the new parts?

[motor29]

No but I see myself doing that in the near future.

[1967Tempest]

Was this a kit?? I have seen that preloaded calipers are much easier to use out of the box, then the ones that need bleeding.

[motor29]

Yes this a kit from Tom's classics bought off Ebay , the price was reasonable and their feedback was excellent.

[1967Tempest]

The only reason I ask is that I used the Scarebird kit. Were you get the parts your self. You can get DOA parts from Napa etc.. If it is from a kit you are probably ok as the parts are probably guaranteed new.

[LPete]

If you open the bleeder screw and the drag goes away, it's something causing pressure to remain in the system -- if not, it's a mechanical problem with the caliper.

A little drag on a disk brake is normal.

[motor29]

I bled the front drivers side again and also the proportioning valve. When I lock up the brakes the passenger side leaves a thick black skidmark and the driver side skidmark seems to be half as light but no more dragging ? WTF

[n20ta2]

if the dragging is gone you may just need to put a few miles on the car for everything to take a good seat.Unless you feel the car pulling one way on hard braking.

[antique69lemans]

Originally Posted by n20ta2

Sounds like trash in the line somewhere or the perportioning valve. Did you blow out the lines before installing the new parts?

Check the soft line at the caliper on the problem side. I have seen them act like an orifice or check valve. Sometimes you can't tell from looking at the outside that they are bad. Swap sides with the hoses or replace that side and test again. If you have a helper to work the pedal, you can loosen the connections one at a time closest to the master and work your way out and observe fluid flow.

[Bill93711]

I had a similar issue. First found that the rod between the booster and the master cyl was too long. Cut it off a bit. Still some drag on one side. Found that the plunger on that side was a bit longer than the other. Machined this down a bit, seems OK now. Thanks IN LINE TUBE for a great kit.

[motor29]

Well I drove the crap out of the car the other day seems to be working better after bleeding the front again. Thanks for all the advice.