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Old 11-14-2010, 02:32 PM
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Default Bearing inspection Q

I just pulled the caps after about 3K on the motor the thrust bearing looks ugly on both sides, also bearing (all) have light scratches.Normal? I dont know what good used bearing should look like. it is a 4spd if that matters Thanks - Ryan
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1970 gto (4spd) 462 500 hp
11.940@114.21 / 1.843 60'/ 3980 lbs

1964 corvette roadster
1968 corvette roadster
1962 corvette

"equal rights, not equal things"
if you want to know the future, read "atlas shrugged"

I dont race a 4spd because it is easy, I race a 4spd because it is hard.


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Old 11-14-2010, 03:01 PM
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They look pretty good to me. The front and back look like that when new. Copper colored from the start.

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  #3  
Old 11-14-2010, 04:06 PM
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4 speed car will have more thrust bearing wear vs a stock automatic trans car. You are pushing the clutch/ crank against the thrust every time you shift. High spring pressure clutch housings have even more wear as it takes even more force to free up the clutch disc from the clamping force.

Pictures are not that great but basic inspection looks "normal"

Tom Vaught

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Old 11-14-2010, 06:18 PM
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What was/is the measured endplay?

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Old 11-14-2010, 06:31 PM
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Parting line shows evidence of cap walk.Bill C.

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Old 11-14-2010, 07:29 PM
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andyleonard
already apart, only measured endplay when i built it 4 years ago, i thought it was .003?

cfmcnc:
when i bought the block it came with a collection of mismatched caps, so when they line bored the block they did some work on the caps too. is that what you are seeing? i am using arp studs. this motor rarely saw 6K.

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1970 gto (4spd) 462 500 hp
11.940@114.21 / 1.843 60'/ 3980 lbs

1964 corvette roadster
1968 corvette roadster
1962 corvette

"equal rights, not equal things"
if you want to know the future, read "atlas shrugged"

I dont race a 4spd because it is easy, I race a 4spd because it is hard.


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Old 11-14-2010, 09:37 PM
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Until you measure the endplay you're just guessing as to whether anything's actually wrong with the thrust bearing. Simply knowing its "ugly" isn't going to help us help you. Maybe the last man in there put it up against his disc sander. Put the shells back in the block, drop the crank in and tighten up the thrust saddle. Stick a feeler gauge in there and work the crank back and forth until you get a measurement. It should be around .006. If it's not, tell us.

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Old 11-14-2010, 11:40 PM
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The one side of the thrust bearing look great to me - your two side views are of the same side. The scratches present in the bearing were probably all there at the end of your initial break-in run. Grit left in oil passages and hard to reach corners all comes loose with the hot oil and circulates until either permanently embedded in the Babbitt material or trapped by the oil filter. I'll leave it up to the experts, but I'd probably bolt them back up and run them.

Any specific problems why you tore the engine down?

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  #9  
Old 11-15-2010, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Probird View Post
They look pretty good to me. The front and back look like that when new. Copper colored from the start.
x 2

If it's a complete tear down. I would have the line bore rechecked to make sure everything is settled.

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Old 11-15-2010, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyleonard View Post
Until you measure the endplay you're just guessing as to whether anything's actually wrong with the thrust bearing. Simply knowing its "ugly" isn't going to help us help you. Maybe the last man in there put it up against his disc sander. Put the shells back in the block, drop the crank in and tighten up the thrust saddle. Stick a feeler gauge in there and work the crank back and forth until you get a measurement. It should be around .006. If it's not, tell us.
my endplay measured .011 now, i dont know what it was when i originally built it.

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1970 gto (4spd) 462 500 hp
11.940@114.21 / 1.843 60'/ 3980 lbs

1964 corvette roadster
1968 corvette roadster
1962 corvette

"equal rights, not equal things"
if you want to know the future, read "atlas shrugged"

I dont race a 4spd because it is easy, I race a 4spd because it is hard.


  #11  
Old 11-15-2010, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed View Post
The one side of the thrust bearing look great to me - your two side views are of the same side. The scratches present in the bearing were probably all there at the end of your initial break-in run. Grit left in oil passages and hard to reach corners all comes loose with the hot oil and circulates until either permanently embedded in the Babbitt material or trapped by the oil filter. I'll leave it up to the experts, but I'd probably bolt them back up and run them.

Any specific problems why you tore the engine down?
no specific problems, "normal" rear main leak, wanted to do a cam change, general inspection. have to make sure it's rady to go for the POCI convention/race

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1970 gto (4spd) 462 500 hp
11.940@114.21 / 1.843 60'/ 3980 lbs

1964 corvette roadster
1968 corvette roadster
1962 corvette

"equal rights, not equal things"
if you want to know the future, read "atlas shrugged"

I dont race a 4spd because it is easy, I race a 4spd because it is hard.


  #12  
Old 11-15-2010, 10:06 PM
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For $60 I'd replace the mains with new and save the ones you took out for the shop truck beater motor. They're too good to throw away and not nice enough to put back in a motor that's torn down. FWIW.

  #13  
Old 11-15-2010, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andyleonard View Post
For $60 I'd replace the mains with new and save the ones you took out for the shop truck beater motor. They're too good to throw away and not nice enough to put back in a motor that's torn down. FWIW.
Done! Thanks! how does my endplay look?

__________________
1970 gto (4spd) 462 500 hp
11.940@114.21 / 1.843 60'/ 3980 lbs

1964 corvette roadster
1968 corvette roadster
1962 corvette

"equal rights, not equal things"
if you want to know the future, read "atlas shrugged"

I dont race a 4spd because it is easy, I race a 4spd because it is hard.


  #14  
Old 11-16-2010, 12:38 AM
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http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...g_failure.aspx

Go search the mod of grinding an angle on the joining thrust faces. And don't forget to tap the thrust cap rearward before tightening and THEN checking thrust clearance.

IIRC .006 is what the book wants.

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