[SergeF]

Jeff,
I am not debating with you about our carb venture 3+ years ago, not 6. The reason this post is at this stage is when I was siking to buy "out of box dominator" you had mentioned that out of box carb wont work.

[shaker455]

Serg,
I didn't lie to you and look at your own post on PZ:

< No links, cut and paste only >

I constantly get messed up Dominators that come stright out of the box so how the hell am I going to recomend one to you when I see repeated problems?

The one I just did for another fourm members here that I posted a link to had all the passages on the mainbody behind the metering block gasket closed off from a burr that was generated from the cutting tool during the factory's machining process.

I see this all the time plus the one I mentioned on your PZ post.

That was a brand new Ultra Dominator and it had nice features like extrnal linkage and billet blocks but the calabration was totally off.

It came thru with .070" idle airbleeds, 92/92 jets and 6.5 PV's and you could not turn out all four mix screws enough to balance the idle and get the A/F under control.

It took a .053" airbleeds along with less jet in the front and lower number PV with no PV in the rear to tame it.

Here's some of my post from PZ :

12-21-10, 01:52AM #15
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergef
Who is running out of the box dominator carb? If you were to buy it over again whould you still go with out of the box or a custom carb? Thanks.

Serg,
I see you picked up a used carb and I hope you got a good deal.

As for your question you should contact "67 7F6 Bird" as he purchased a new Holley Ultra Dominator for his combo and I was called in to do a total recal for it work on his combo.

12-22-10, 11:12AM #22
RAIV-Z
Registered User
oin Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 28
RAIV-Zs Gallery
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jeff did a nice job straightening out Steve’s carb.


12-22-10, 07:17PM #23
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by LSRfbird
Shaker,
What kind of performance gain could you get Serg if he let you tweek it?
ET gain.

I've built a custom 4150 carb for my friend Serg in the past which prompted Harry K to call me as he liked the mods I had done and wanted to talk about it.

There are many mods & up grades that can be done to an out of box unit including external linkage to control the rear blades from opening too soon which is typical in standard Doms.

Serg selected a 2-circuit Dom which is a wise choice so it will require less to strike a nice fuel curve balance.

He will have issuse with the transition circuit but I'm sure it will be tweaked on the dyno.

[SergeF]

Jeff,
it's all good. It wasn't easy to get a good carb. First carb I got just didn't feel right. It did look kinda used. Summit exchanged it, no questions asked. Second carb was much better. Only problem with a second one was a front squarter. Holley didn't drill it on one side!

[Todd1035]

Tuning by the look of your plugs is not really the way to go. The AFR on the dyno is more important. If not when you are at the track tune to the best et. You shouldn't have a rear power valve for a drag car. When you leave the line the fuel pulls away from the valve causing a lean condition on leave. Just my 2 cents...Good Luck

Originally Posted by SergeF

Air fuel ratio is fine. 4150 850 carb is barelly over 3 years old. 3 dyno sessions and 1 track day on it. Rest of the time it was sitting on a bench. Yes, it made a little more power compare to my old HP950 but that wasn't why I bought that carb. Sure, if I plug a rear power valve on hp950 it might be very close. Plug on the left is colder. It has about 12 pulls and 40 miles of street driving with a 1050 carb. Plug on the right is from my old motor with 850 carb. Needed a gas mask to drive around. I went back to hp950 carb on my old combo.

[Dragncar]

650 HP?
Just wondering what I could do with my HPs on the 462 I am putting together.
They are stock right now but Dave at SD could finish them with the 380cfm CNC port job.
I have a cam a bit bigger then Sergs, .272-.276, .688.
I have been thinking that I would have to spin it real high with a 380 head.
But 650HP with stock 330 cfm has got me thinking.
If I could make 700 horsepower and keep it under 7500 RPMs this could work.
Its pushing it a bit with a stock block but it is a splayed cap 400, 65 pound 4.25 forging, ultralight billet rods and light Ross FTs so as for as factory iron blocks its about as good as it gets short of a RAV or SD block.
The heads are 85ccs and the price of 110 race gas will be through the roof by summer so I can run pump 91.

[harry k]

[quote=Todd1035;4253703]Tuning by the look of your plugs is not really the way to go.
X2 correct -but thats not what he did ,those pics are not very clear pixels & which doesnt show all.

The AFR on the dyno is more important.
oh yeah, but there are few here that don't believe in that

If not when you are at the track tune to the best et.
X2

You shouldn't have a rear power valve for a drag car.
hes car is driven to track and in the staging lanes as well.