[66tempestcustomvert]

I have a 66 Tempest that is never intended for the strip ( it is a vert) with the born-with 326. It needs a rebuild, and i would like to keep the current block for some sake of originality. Like i said, it is not intended for racing, except with friends in the city. I am looking for ideas on parts (heads, etc) to get the best performance out of this little motor. Also, any experiences with the 326 would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
Also if anyone has any of the forementioned parts for sale, please let me know.

[74Grandville]

maybe stroke it with a 4" crank. to give yourself a torquey 350. and use some later 60's 350 heads like 17's or 47's. This would give you the open chamber and keep the compression in check.

[amcmike]

Well one thing to consider is saving the 326 block rather than trying to rebuild it. That way, there is no concerns about possible damage in the future. But, I'll assume you've already considered that.

I'd have the block bored over the minimum to clean them up. That way, you still have plenty of meat in case of future rebuilds. If a .010 doesn't do it, a 5/32" overbore would put you at a stock 350 bore. Also, zero deck the block.

The later model heads are better. The open chamber heads are more efficient than the earlier ones (find '68 and later). A set of 350 heads would work well. A set of 1968 code 17, 1969 code 47, or 1970 code 11 would work. Have them milled to achieve about 9.5:1 compression. Unless you really open up the bores, the cylinder itself will shroud the valves, so no need to run more than a 1.96/1.66 combo. A multi-angle valve job and some bowl work should be plenty for a mild 326. I wouldn't open up the intake port to the felpro intake gasket size, as that would remove more material than required, slowing the velocity and reducing torque. Either make a template off the intake manifold and match that to the head, or find an intake gasket that is closest to the dimensions of the intake and match both head and intake to that gasket. The SCE 128101 would probably be close. Summit has port dimensions for all intake gaskets on their website. Have the pushrod holes elongated for use with 1.72 roller rockers, and converted to threaded stud mounts.

Camshaft, what are you willing to spend? A hydraulic roller would really wake things up, but not a cheap retrofit. Assuming you're going less expensive, the Summit 2800. One of the builders on this site advertise Scorpion 1.72 ratio rockers for Pontiac to give the cam more lift at the valve.

You should end up with an engine with great street manners, and a wider operating range.

Note, if you did step up to a 4" stroke, you would not need to mill the heads to get the compression ratio within range, and the Summit 2801 camshaft would be a better choice (but keep the 1.72 rocker arms). I would probably also do a half fill with hard block to give he bottom some more stability with the longer stroke.

[Cobrabill]

Buy a 389-455 and put the 326 in a box in the corner of the garage.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by Cobrabill

Buy a 389-455 and put the 326 in a box in the corner of the garage.

x2
Life is too short to drive an under powered classic car..

[T A 70]

I wouldn't spend any more money other than to rebuild it stock. You'll get wupped by a minivan either way.

[66tempestcustomvert]

Does a born with 326 hold any value? My impression is that no one cared if it wasn't a matching numbers 389 in 66. Should i just box the engine up to ensure that no damage is done? If it doesn't add value to the car, i wouldn't mind just using it, but if i should keep it untouched for resale, i would like to know. Opinions? Is the 326 simply always going to be a dog in a tempest? I want it to be fun to drive. Thanks for all the replies so far.

[T A 70]

Originally Posted by 66tempestcustomvert

Does a born with 326 hold any value? My impression is that no one cared if it wasn't a matching numbers 389 in 66. Should i just box the engine up to ensure that no damage is done? If it doesn't add value to the car, i wouldn't mind just using it, but if i should keep it untouched for resale, i would like to know. Opinions? Is the 326 simply always going to be a dog in a tempest? I want it to be fun to drive. Thanks for all the replies so far.

Numbers matching always adds value to a classic. Sounds like you want to go fast though.
You'll find someone that will say they got their 326 to run but generally moving up to a 389/400/455 will put you sooo much further ahead performance and dollar wise it really wouldn't be worth it IMO.

[bmidgley]

The 326 has a 3.75 stroke, same as a 400. So, you are dealing with a small bore motor with a long stroke. Like a tractor! I would start with at least a 400. Rebuild will cost the same. You can use your 326 oil pan and many other parts off you motor.

Mike

[z_bag]

If you get a 400 with the early style motor mount holes it will be an almost direct bolt in deal. If you could land a 67 or 68 400 with the 8 bolt waterpump it would be a direct bolt in deal and you wuoldnt even need to pull anything off your existing motor. Shove it in the corner and leave it. My guess is once you get a taste of that 400+ cubic inch power, you'll never look back. I bet the cost to rebiuld a 400 is slightly less than a 326. Of course there is the cost of buying one.

[ho428]

Regardless of which way you go, leave it a Tempest and all the 326 badging on everything. When you drop a 428-455 in it, then fry the tires for 100 feet and spank everyone off the line, tell them it's just a little o 326.
Physically they look the same, especially if you use the old timing cover and water pump. Unless they know head codes and intakes no one will won't know at a glance.

But, if this to be a regular driver, and all you want a nice stock original car, just rebuild it, as is. Cubes and HP isn't the be all, end all, for all cars.
My 68 Firebird convertible still has the std OHC-6 and 3 speed floor shift in it. It's a blast to drive and unusual to boot. The same could be said about an original 326 Tempest.

[PunchT37]

I think, when dealing with a Tempest or any other "underclass car", Ex. a Tempest vs. GTO, or a Plymouth Satellite vs. a Roadrunner, most people won`t look at numbers matching as they would on a GTO or Roadrunner. Most won`t punish you for having a 500 hp. 455 in a `66 Tempest vs. the 2bbl. 326. In fact, most of the time, it will boost the value of the car. The GTO, on the other hand, will have more value if it`s numbers match.

[66tempestcustomvert]

There is a '68 400 for sale for $300 nearby on CL. Will that bolt in? Will i be able to use my current oil pan, etc? Do i need to know more info first? Thank you for all the help- this is really helping me decide what direction to go in.

[66tempestcustomvert]

Originally Posted by ho428

My 68 Firebird convertible still has the std OHC-6 and 3 speed floor shift in it. It's a blast to drive and unusual to boot. The same could be said about an original 326 Tempest.

I assume you drive much higher HP cars. Are you ever disappointed with the OHC6 performance? Do you get wupped by minivans like mentioned earlier in this thread?

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by 66tempestcustomvert

There is a '68 400 for sale for $300 nearby on CL. Will that bolt in? Will i be able to use my current oil pan, etc? Do i need to know more info first? Thank you for all the help- this is really helping me decide what direction to go in.

The `68 400 will bolt right in. Yes, you can use your oil pan and and other parts. Easy swap.

[66tempestcustomvert]

Is 300 a good deal?

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by 66tempestcustomvert

Is 300 a good deal?

Probably, not knowing condition...what is advertised condition?

If it's all there, hasn't been sitting out in the open, was/is running, hopefully has carb, dist, starter (would be nice)
Ask about car it came out of, miles, condition. did seller drive car??? have knowledge of car being driven...???

Go look at it, take a 15/16 socket w/ short extension and a breakover, see if the crank will turn....

I built a 283 for my old 67 Bel Air, tried to make it a MPG mobile, it got 20 MPG, ran WAY better that stock, but will NEVER do that again. I won't EVER build an engine w/ less than 350 cubes, (make that 400 cubes). In my opinon, a car needs enough power to easily move itself. Smaller engines in big cars will drive O.K. I'm getting too old to be satisfied w/ just O.K. Gas mileage won't make enough difference between a 400 and 326 to justify, if you have a thought in that direction...even a 455. A 455 would be best, I've been hunting one of those, getting hard to find...
You will REALLY like a 400...

[z_bag]

If it is complete and repairable it would be worth 300 to me. Specially if its close by. If it is a complete 4bbl motor (with 4 bbl intake and heads) it would be a great deal. If it looks good and complete take cash and offer 200 and see what happens.

[72blackbird]

I'm finishing up a build on a 326 at the moment. We had planned to use the Tomahawk 5140 rods, but due to a balance issue we either had to go with mallory metal for the crank or the slightly heavier 4340 H-beams (no brainer there-lol). The owner wanted a lumpy idle, so we're going w/ a Comp cams XE 268- I suspect it will be a bit too lumpy in a 326. We're also running KRE's shaved to 58cc and set up w/ smaller valves to run on a 326- should be interesting to see how well this combo runs.

Geno

[amcmike]

Originally Posted by 72blackbird

I'm finishing up a build on a 326 at the moment. We had planned to use the Tomahawk 5140 rods, but due to a balance issue we either had to go with mallory metal for the crank or the slightly heavier 4340 H-beams (no brainer there-lol). The owner wanted a lumpy idle, so we're going w/ a Comp cams XE 268- I suspect it will be a bit too lumpy in a 326. We're also running KRE's shaved to 58cc and set up w/ smaller valves to run on a 326- should be interesting to see how well this combo runs.

Geno

Keep us updated. I'm curious to see how this one works out. What bore and stroke are you running? Valve sizes (1.96/1.66?)? He's certainly not going to complain it's not lumpy enough.