[b-man]

Originally Posted by 6D6GOAT

I had thought of that set up but became concerned about the torque applied to the front of the head. I figure that a 6 to 8 inch lever plus the torque of the motor at full squirt, 10 pounds of boost etc would/could cause some problems with the head lifting, twisting or distorting? i dont know, am i being too much of a puss here? am i over reacting on the forces at work here?

Yes.

Check out post #8 in this thread:http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...in#post3555937

[6D6GOAT]

yes, that is what i had envisioned. i took a look at it today. looks doable but i will have to mess with moving the power steering hoses a little bit. I still havent ruled out the back of the head. with exception of a tight fit against the firewall and alot of fuel injection wiring i have a ton of space...... and just as i wrote that i had an idea....what about the utilizing the bell crank pivot hole to mount up something?

[242177P]

Bolt your own motor mount?

Only problem with a regular bolt is clearance to the frame bracket. Can either notch that, or shave down the bolt head...

[b-man]

Originally Posted by 6D6GOAT

yes, that is what i had envisioned. i took a look at it today. looks doable but i will have to mess with moving the power steering hoses a little bit. I still havent ruled out the back of the head. with exception of a tight fit against the firewall and alot of fuel injection wiring i have a ton of space...... and just as i wrote that i had an idea....what about the utilizing the bell crank pivot hole to mount up something?

I'm not sure if the block casting is stout enough in that area. I wouldn't put all that force on only one bolt attached directly to the block casting, a stout bracket bolted to either the front or back of the head with 3 bolts would be a much better choice in my opinion.

[JC455]

Vic,
I'd make a cardboard pattern off the passenger side head's front (mirror of driver's rear), add in a tab to mount the chain/turnbuckle/cable to, cut it out of 3/8" steel, and mount it to the back of the driver's side head w/ 3 bolts. should be low profile, clean, and almost unnoticed if painted black.

[60man]

Found this posted in another thread by 1971warbird a while back. Believe it's the Jim Hand mod...credit shows a "Joe Hand" ??

[60man]

Forgot picture...getting old damn it !!

[Sirrotica]

While that works for an A body mount, it doesn't cover the many other mounts Pontiac used throughout the V8 years.

[JSchmitz]

Here's what I did (Pics). I used a 1/4" turnbuckle and a piece of 5/16" chain. It runs from the driver's side, front, head bolt to the rear steering box bolt head (outside of frame). I welded the eyes on the turnbuckle shut for good measure. I run it with just a little slack.

[Old Man Taylor]

Originally Posted by 60man

Found this posted in another thread by 1971warbird a while back. Believe it's the Jim Hand mod...credit shows a "Joe Hand" ??

Joe is one of Jim's sons.

[Jeff Hamlin]

Someone mentioned the Chebby cable...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1...Q5fAccessories

[old66tiger]

Why not a solid mount on the drivers side and a rubber mount on the passenger side

[b-man]

Guys, if you read the first paragraph of the original post he's trying to avoid stressing the block where the factory motor mount attaches.

That rules out using any kind of solid engine mount, a rubber mount modified so that it locks up or a rubber mount that's been bolted through.

[niceta]

Originally Posted by Jeff Hamlin

Someone mentioned the Chebby cable...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1...Q5fAccessories

I like the cable idea. Looks like it would be a clean install. Can anyone tell me how much the engine still moves (approx) with stock mounts and one side tied down? Thanks

[Jurassicgto]

How about a piece of angle iron bolted to the back of the head. Make 2 holes to bolt to the head or weld a piece of flat iron to it to hit a 3rd hole. Easy to make. Just use a piece thick (strong) enough.

[60man]

Originally Posted by b-man

Guys, if you read the first paragraph of the original post he's trying to avoid stressing the block where the factory motor mount attaches.

That rules out using any kind of solid engine mount, a rubber mount modified so that it locks up or a rubber mount that's been bolted through.

Just stick a front engine plate on it like the allPontiac one...providing he has room for access. drives. Otherwise a cable or chain is in order ..
I know to well about stress on DS mount. I lost a motor over it..IMO.
This is pic of #3 cylinder in old 462..there was stress cracks inside & outside block by mount pad..However block was not filled.

[grandville455]

Being B-Body Mount Is diffferent, can A guy just use a chain under the cross member and attach it to the thru bolt on the mount securing the back of the chain with a nylock Nut on the end of the bolt?

[6D6GOAT]

Look like there is plenty of room behind my drivers side head. i already started to weld up the bracket that bolts to the head. I ll post a pic of it later.

I have an idea to use sway bar stabilizer bushings to help take some of the shock out of the setup when the slack in the chain is taken up at WOT.

any thoughts?

[grandville455]

What is the bolt thread on the bolt that goes thru the mount? How long also

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by 6D6GOAT

Look like there is plenty of room behind my drivers side head. i already started to weld up the bracket that bolts to the head. I ll post a pic of it later.

I have an idea to use sway bar stabilizer bushings to help take some of the shock out of the setup when the slack in the chain is taken up at WOT.

any thoughts?

Just that it seems (to me anyway) your over engineering it, The mounts are going to give you the elasticity, and the torque restraint (whichever one you decide on) stops the mount from breaking due to twisting too far. You already have the isolation from the mounts for vibration etc., the torque restraint is only going to be in use a very small percentage of run time and isolation isn't really needed. It's your car, you do what pleases you. I'd put a turnbuckle on it and call it done.

If anyone wanted to take the time to do it ideally a strut that could have some pre-load adjusted into it and to tie both cylinder heads together and the a mounting point of the left side to tie the torque restraint to secure the torque restraint to the frame. The Pontiac engine is trying to push the cylinder banks apart while splitting the block. Tying the heads together would help with this force while providing a fixture to equalize the twisting force on both cylinder banks, but that's a lot of work, although it may help block longevity down the road, who knows?