Pontiac - Boost Turbo, supercharged, Nitrous, EFI & other Power Adders discussed here.

          
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:31 PM
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Default Turbo Questions

Ok I am going to build me a turbo charged 461 for my 69 Bird. Some of you may know this from another forum... I figured I would come here for some answers and advice too.
I plan on using a S475 turbo. What size pipe should I run on the Hot and Cold sides?
Also what is a good fuel pump and regulator? I would like a nice and quite fuel pump. Some of the electric pumps are just way to darn loud.
Also what would be a minimum size intercooler to run with this set up?
I am a little ways out from starting the mock up but I want to get all the parts here I will need. I hate waiting for parts when I start lol.

Thanks!

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Old 09-25-2011, 01:12 AM
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not sure what size exit your s475 has, but my old and new Garrett both had 5" hot sides. That 5" pipe reduces to two 3.5" pipes and then quickly two 3" all the way to the rear. On the cold side its 3.5" thats reduced to 3" immediately. While you might be able to go smaller on either....I wouldnt go too much smaller.

As for a fuel pump, I run the aeromotive A1000 which has been fine for carbureted use. I'm going to have to upgrade to go fuel injected, which is what I want to do eventually. A good used A1000 can be had for $250.

My intercooler has 3" in and out. I'm not really sure what it was rated at since I bought it with the car. When I put it all back together I'm hoping to put pressure gauges before and after to measure restriction. The intercooler makers seem to list their products by the HP it supposedly will flow up to. Not sure how accurate that is....guess it depends on the company.

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Old 09-25-2011, 09:35 AM
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I WAS GOING TO BUILD MY OWN TURBO HEADERS, TOO MUCH HUSSLE UNLESS YOU ARE A REAL WELDER, I BOUGHT MY (COMPLETE) TURBO HEADER KIT FROM JEFF PALAZZO, I THINK HIS PY NAME IS "TURBO69FIREBIRD" HE CAN GIVE YOU ADVICE TOO...HE RECOMMENDS 3" INTERCOOLER...I HOPE THIS HELPS BRO...

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Old 09-25-2011, 02:04 PM
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Thanks guys!

Yeah I was in contact with Jeff. Called him a couple weeks ago and still waiting for him to call back... Got tired of waiting so I figured I would come here for some answers.

Yeah I will be building my own headers as well. Just dont care for the 3-tube headers.

For the intercooler I should get the biggest one I can fit? Guess this maybe one the things that bigger is better lol?

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Old 09-25-2011, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchopower69 View Post
Thanks guys!

Yeah I was in contact with Jeff. Called him a couple weeks ago and still waiting for him to call back... Got tired of waiting so I figured I would come here for some answers.

Yeah I will be building my own headers as well. Just dont care for the 3-tube headers.

For the intercooler I should get the biggest one I can fit? Guess this maybe one the things that bigger is better lol?
Dont waste your time building them. You cant buy the material for what Jeff can sell you a pair for-in stainless to boot.

Not normal for him not to return a call, all I can think is with the really bad hurricane/ rainstorms he must be real busy with the construction business.
Try giving him a call again.

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Old 09-25-2011, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bankbook View Post
Dont waste your time building them. You cant buy the material for what Jeff can sell you a pair for-in stainless to boot.

Not normal for him not to return a call, all I can think is with the really bad hurricane/ rainstorms he must be real busy with the construction business.
Try giving him a call again.
X2 Try Jeff again.

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Old 09-25-2011, 08:12 PM
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BTW Many of Aeromotives pumps are submersible for in tank mounting. This quiets them down considerably especially in a fuel cell. Another plus to do it that way is the pump will run cooler/live longer. Unless you go with a belt driven pump there is no mechanical conventional pump that has enough pressure to overcome boost. If going with a belt drive pump either use a small front cell to feed it(and auxilary pump to move fuel from rear to front tank) or cable drive to mount the pump at the rear and feed from the rear tank. If you intend to go 1000+hp or more I'd be looking real close at a belt or cam driven pump.

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Old 09-25-2011, 08:16 PM
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Didnt read all of this but was planning on getting back to you Don
Every time we tslk we get off on other topics

My sincerest appologies if I didnt give you the info needed
It was my boys 2nd Bday sat and I had 2 rooms to remodel that were down to bare studs
Ive been up til 4 am some nights working on it
This week will be MUCH less hectic

I am usually pretty good w info
Im gonna look for your number and try and give you a csll now

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Old 09-25-2011, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbo69bird View Post
Didnt read all of this but was planning on getting back to you Don
Every time we tslk we get off on other topics

My sincerest appologies if I didnt give you the info needed
It was my boys 2nd Bday sat and I had 2 rooms to remodel that were down to bare studs
Ive been up til 4 am some nights working on it
This week will be MUCH less hectic

I am usually pretty good w info
Im gonna look for your number and try and give you a csll now
LOL yeah it easy to just talk cars!!

Yeah I figured you were busy so I would ask around instead of bugging you about these little details lol.

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Old 09-26-2011, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchopower69 View Post
Also what would be a minimum size intercooler to run with this set up?


Thanks!
Go for the biggest one you can fit in there, IMHO. The new generation Garrett cores are bada$$ Something like this or bigger (with the endtanks obviously )

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=INT

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Old 09-26-2011, 10:23 PM
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Ok here is another one for yas...

I wanted to run a manual with this set up but after talking more with Jeff I dont think I am ready for all that money to make it perform and last. So I will be going with a auto now. What do you all think about the 200r4? I would really like to have overdrive since this car will be driven when ever possible.

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Old 09-27-2011, 12:04 AM
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It wont last. I know there are many who will point to the fact that some pretty powerful grand nationals ran them. Those cars didnt have the torque our cars do. If you want an overdrive trans that will last you'll have to get into a 4L80e. Can be done with manual valve body or if you want auto shifting the computers can be had now for around $500. A stock 4L80 can probably handle 5-600 hp. Know a lot of guys with muscle cars that literally bolted them in straight from the donor van. At our HP levels though you may need stronger components. That begins to add up....with the torque converter, trans itself, adapter plate, shortening the driveshaft, etc.

Again, bolting in a stock unit is the least expensive way to go, and you might get away with $1200-$1500 for the conversion by keeping your eyes open for a deal. If you want a stoutly built unit with a real converter you are looking more like $3000-$3500 for everything. That would probably handle you to 8-900 hp. If you want a trans capable of handling 1200-1500hp, you'll have to get all the best from converter on down and it'll probably run $5000 by the time you are said and done.

Nice thing is with the computer you can make custom programs for cruising, or racing, etc. These will handle lockup points, shift points in relation to throttle position, etc. Beautiful stuff. Dont let ANYONE tell you that a lockup converter is not an option for a high HP unit. Used to be that way, but nowadays its not so. In addition, you can get paddle shifters if you want......even with use of the computer. Talk to Jake Shoe on here. He's an expert with these things and has even designed the best trans brake for these things available. He's also capable of building a unit that will give you compression braking...........so if you downshift it will pull the car down........like a manual trans would. He's the man.

Another option would be a Gear Vendors over/underdrive. Lots of race and rod cars have them, and they can be made to handle 2000 hp if you talk to them ahead of time. I think they turn up the pressure when manufacturing the casings for those units. To me though at almost $2800 (and you still need to shorten the driveshaft) I'd rather have the computer controlled and programmable 4L80e for a bit more. A used Gear Vendors can be had for beteen $1000-$2000.....depending on how good you are at searching. Be careful though, there are older less capable units out there. You want the recent types. You also want all the components it comes with for YOUR application. Theres a little computer with these too, and some people have old garbage without everything................so buyer beware.

Good luck!

  #13  
Old 09-27-2011, 07:57 PM
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Well then....

This is right up there with doing the T-56 trans maybe even more! Man there is alot more work going to turbo then most people think lol. I will have a talk with my tranny guy and see what he can build me one up for. And I guess I will go from there.
Thanks

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  #14  
Old 09-27-2011, 08:10 PM
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Its not cheap, especially if you want all the goodies inside one. Cheapest options are a T400 with a used Gear Vendors if you are patient looking for one, or a stock 4L80e. Remember, turbos dont hit HARD all at once, so especially if you are street driving mostly a stock 4L80e may live behind even 700 plus turbo HP for a long while. Now if you are racing and putting big slicks on the back it might not.

Its not cheap to play for sure......lol.

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Old 09-27-2011, 11:06 PM
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Do I need a special adapter plate? Or just one for a Cheby trans to Poncho motor?

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Old 09-27-2011, 11:13 PM
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I believe its the regular adapter, but call Jake and just make sure. He's a good guy, and he'll help you whether you buy from him or not. Which when coupled with his knowledge makes me want to buy from him. He may have the adapters himself. Here's his website. Just tell him what your budget is and see what he can do. But you want to talk to him cause he can fill you in on speedometer adapter info, crossmember info, budget converter vs stock converter, etc. Even if its tips on how to make your own crossmember.

http://www.jakesperformance.com/

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Old 09-28-2011, 06:10 PM
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Thanks for the link! I will call them and see what they have to say.

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Old 09-29-2011, 09:02 PM
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Just picked up a 4l80e tonight! My buddy hooked me up with one! Let the plans continue...

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Old 09-29-2011, 09:24 PM
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Nice! just touch base with Jake on converter, crossmember, speedometer, computer details. I do know he said the earlier ones (cant remember which years he mentioned) were a little slimmer and easier for a retrofit......but I believe they'll all work.

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Old 09-29-2011, 10:12 PM
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Yeah I will have to get a computer yet as it didnt come with one. But for free I wasnt going to say no lol. Crossmember I can make cheaper then buying one but yes I plan on getting his Billet convertor and whatever else him and my trany guy says I need. Im sure Jake will now more about parts to hold up to a turbo application. And this is out of a 98.

Again thanks for the input! But Im still not happy about giving up my 3rd pedal. But some times you just got to do what you got to do to get what you want lol.

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