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  #21  
Old 06-05-2010, 01:38 AM
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I wonder what the mileage record is for a Pontiac V8 without a rebuild.

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  #22  
Old 06-05-2010, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart View Post
200,000 miles is the new 100,000 miles. When I was a kid it was like a minor miracle if a car lasted for 100k, nowadays it seems the vast majority of them can go at least 200k without major issues.
HOW OLD ARE YOU???

My parents never traded in a car in the 1950's with less than 100K; most more, and a 1952 pickup truck made it almost 300K.

My best to date is a 1979 Ford van that went 440K before it rusted out (Missouri winter salt and cinders) the third time!


The newer vehicles MIGHT do that mechanically, but the *&^%$ electronics won't!

Jon.

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  #23  
Old 06-05-2010, 09:08 AM
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I turned 200k on my 63 Cat wagon. I was well on my way to 300k when it was smashed from behind sitting on the street. I still can't believe the person managed to drive off. It had 253k on it when that happened. When I sold the engine the guy tore it down and found near perfect berings and no wear in the cylinder walls. I ran Mobil 1 in it.

I Also turned 200k on my POS honda accord. The back half is blasted from the previous owners accident. It just keeps running. All I do is change the oil and I did the trans fluid. Gaah! the additive for it was costly!

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Old 06-05-2010, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by carbking View Post
HOW OLD ARE YOU???

My parents never traded in a car in the 1950's with less than 100K; most more, and a 1952 pickup truck made it almost 300K.

My best to date is a 1979 Ford van that went 440K before it rusted out (Missouri winter salt and cinders) the third time!

Jon.
You think you had it bad, people in Minnesota go to Missouri looking for rust free cars. It wasn't so much that the mechanicals wore out, it was the bodies - when I was a kid in the 1950s and 1960s it wasn't uncommon to see cars that were only a couple years old that already had major rust holes. It really wasn't until the 1980s that the auto manufacturers got a handle on corrosion resistance.

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Old 06-05-2010, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by mechanickeith View Post
Last august, my daily driver 61 Tempest 2dr cp turn'd 500K!!!!! You all are rookies!!!!!!!
My 88 Cougar did that a few yrs ago.

Right now most of what we drive is over 200k.

I tend to sell the lower mileage ones.

Mike

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  #26  
Old 06-05-2010, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 455Grandville View Post
That's not much on a 7.3 - I've seen plenty that have surpassed 500K. If you have an auto trans better set some aside for a rebuild if it's not been done already.


SHHHHHHHH!!!!!

I won't rebuild it, can pick up a junkyard one for 300.

I've found that fewer things go wrong with it when it's driven regularly. When it sits for weeks on end, I am sure to have something wrong with it when I need to use it again.

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  #27  
Old 06-07-2010, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiedlerh View Post
I wonder what the mileage record is for a Pontiac V8 without a rebuild.
I'm sure that someone has a Pontiac that they've run longer, but I bought a 1979 Grand LeMans new - and it had over 217,000 miles on it when I sold it for $1,000.00 in 1991.

The much maligned 301 V8...

Engine was untouched - other than spark plugs, oil and filter changes, an alternator, a fuel pump and an ignition module.

Only other significant repair to the car in 217,000 miles of driving - had the tranny and front end rebuilt at the same time with about 140,000 miles on it - cost about $500.00 total.

  #28  
Old 06-07-2010, 11:52 AM
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My old '97 Dodge 360 just turned 250K the other day and not one major repair since I've had it. It's never quit on me except when I had to replace the ignition control module about a month ago. Still drives and handles great too. Body is beat up from hail though...

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Originally Posted by The Champ View Post
The much maligned 301 V8...
I'm beginning to think they're indestructable. My son has one with about 130,000..a '78 model. I noticed about 6 months ago that the oil was milkshake looking. Oil pooling in the breather. Dipstick covered with some type of grit like rust. Warned him that any day it was going to go. It's been 6 months and the thing runs like a Singer sewing machine. No smoke or steam, no knock, no valves tapping....Nothing but smooth...and he drives it a LOT. I'm still waiting for my "I told you so" moment but it hasn't come.

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  #29  
Old 06-07-2010, 10:17 PM
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boss, you should get another 100k before even needing injectors. dont get rid of it and expect a new diesel to perform like it. i have had alot of issues with my f-450 and looked at one of the new ford diesels and now you have to add a special oil that they said it holds 5 gallons and cost 75.00 for the 5 gallons and should get between 3 to 5k miles per 5 gallons . when it gets low, the engine shuts off. also this is a brand new ford in house engineered engine. i cant imagine what a piece of crap it is going to be. i decided to pass on one and not for sure what to buy now.

  #30  
Old 06-07-2010, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by The Boss View Post
It took 10 years, but yesterday I finally turned 200k on my 2000 Super Duty. This is the most mileage I've ever had on any vehicle, and although he's got some scars on him and is beginning to show his age, he's never failed to do anything I've ever asked of him.

I've been toying with the idea of replacing it, just ignore the items that need to be fixed and sell it off to somebody else, but there isn't a vehicle I've ever owned that I have felt more comfortable in. So off for body and paint, ball joints, brakes & tires - oh & I'll finally fix that front pinion too.



Gotta love those Caterpillar oil actuated fuel injectors!!



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Originally Posted by Old Blue 66 View Post
I bought my Volvo S60 2.4t two years ago with the hopes of pushing it to 200K. I bought it at 62k. After nickel and dimming me to death (it all started when it hit 100K) the repairs far exceeded the cars value. The last straw was the ABS module and its ability to leak brake fluid a at cost of $900 just for the part. Then we found the rack leaking in two places. Neither of which I replaced. It was time to let it go at just 120K. Too bad as I really liked that car. Never buy a Volvo again.

I just replaced it with a new one of these. I'm sure this will make it to 200K.


I'm not surprised about your Volvo......I worked in the service dept of a Toyota/Volvo (weird combination, huh?) for a few years.....sometimes the water pump on the new B230F engines was already leaking during pre-delivery inspection.......and then, those POS ZF transmissions!!...and front brake pads metal-to-metal in 12,000 miles!...I could go on......

What junk!

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  #31  
Old 06-08-2010, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
I'm beginning to think they're (301) indestructable. My son has one with about 130,000..a '78 model. I noticed about 6 months ago that the oil was milkshake looking. Oil pooling in the breather. Dipstick covered with some type of grit like rust. Warned him that any day it was going to go. It's been 6 months and the thing runs like a Singer sewing machine. No smoke or steam, no knock, no valves tapping....Nothing but smooth...and he drives it a LOT. I'm still waiting for my "I told you so" moment but it hasn't come.
I've got a nearly identicle testimony, Greg.

I had a '78 Grand Am, Y code 301. At about 140K, or a little before, I had noticed the upper half of the dipstick getting rusty just as you discribed. No milkshake oil, but there was a small bit of yellow residue at the very top of the dipstick, and I had oil contaminating the air filter via the valve cover breather.
One day I desided to drain about a quart out of the pan to see if there was any coolant in there, after letting it sit over night (so the heavier coolant would settle to the bottom). Well I didn't see any sign of moisture, but then I had the drain pan in the direct sunlight, and noticed a faint sparkling copper substance, all through the semi-transparent oil. It dawned on me that it must be from engine bearings, and I panicked a little. I decided it wasn't worth the investment of a rebuild for the 18-25 mpg, plus it was my only transportation and I had a 20 mile commute. So I looked for a car with optimum mpg, and sold the Grand Am to Diamond Jim.
I told Jim it would be risky to drive it from White County to Atlanta, since I thought it might spin a rod bearing at any momment. So Jim rents a trailer and hauls it home.
Four years later I find out Jim still hasn't pulled the 301, and he's been driving it around on a semi regular basis. The confounded thing even made an excursion to Savannah last year.

I know of another '78 Grand Am owner in GA with over 300K (one rebuild) on his 301.

  #32  
Old 06-08-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightfoot View Post
I've got a nearly identicle testimony, Greg.

I had a '78 Grand Am, Y code 301. At about 140K, or a little before, I had noticed the upper half of the dipstick getting rusty just as you discribed. No milkshake oil, but there was a small bit of yellow residue at the very top of the dipstick, and I had oil contaminating the air filter via the valve cover breather.
One day I desided to drain about a quart out of the pan to see if there was any coolant in there, after letting it sit over night (so the heavier coolant would settle to the bottom). Well I didn't see any sign of moisture, but then I had the drain pan in the direct sunlight, and noticed a faint sparkling copper substance, all through the semi-transparent oil. It dawned on me that it must be from engine bearings, and I panicked a little. I decided it wasn't worth the investment of a rebuild for the 18-25 mpg, plus it was my only transportation and I had a 20 mile commute. So I looked for a car with optimum mpg, and sold the Grand Am to Diamond Jim.
I told Jim it would be risky to drive it from White County to Atlanta, since I thought it might spin a rod bearing at any momment. So Jim rents a trailer and hauls it home.
Four years later I find out Jim still hasn't pulled the 301, and he's been driving it around on a semi regular basis. The confounded thing even made an excursion to Savannah last year.

I know of another '78 Grand Am owner in GA with over 300K (one rebuild) on his 301.
It's actually pretty amazing, isn't it?

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  #33  
Old 06-08-2010, 07:35 PM
mike nixon mike nixon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightfoot View Post
I've got a nearly identicle testimony, Greg.

I had a '78 Grand Am, Y code 301. At about 140K, or a little before, I had noticed the upper half of the dipstick getting rusty just as you discribed. No milkshake oil, but there was a small bit of yellow residue at the very top of the dipstick, and I had oil contaminating the air filter via the valve cover breather.
One day I desided to drain about a quart out of the pan to see if there was any coolant in there, after letting it sit over night (so the heavier coolant would settle to the bottom). Well I didn't see any sign of moisture, but then I had the drain pan in the direct sunlight, and noticed a faint sparkling copper substance, all through the semi-transparent oil. It dawned on me that it must be from engine bearings, and I panicked a little. I decided it wasn't worth the investment of a rebuild for the 18-25 mpg, plus it was my only transportation and I had a 20 mile commute. So I looked for a car with optimum mpg, and sold the Grand Am to Diamond Jim.
I told Jim it would be risky to drive it from White County to Atlanta, since I thought it might spin a rod bearing at any momment. So Jim rents a trailer and hauls it home.
Four years later I find out Jim still hasn't pulled the 301, and he's been driving it around on a semi regular basis. The confounded thing even made an excursion to Savannah last year.

I know of another '78 Grand Am owner in GA with over 300K (one rebuild) on his 301.
i know of a Turbo 301 that clocked well over 300k before the car was sold. New owner jerked in out in favor of a 400 fromwhat i was told.

Mike

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  #34  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:12 PM
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boss, you should get another 100k before even needing injectors. dont get rid of it and expect a new diesel to perform like it. i have had alot of issues with my f-450 and looked at one of the new ford diesels and now you have to add a special oil that they said it holds 5 gallons and cost 75.00 for the 5 gallons and should get between 3 to 5k miles per 5 gallons . when it gets low, the engine shuts off. also this is a brand new ford in house engineered engine. i cant imagine what a piece of crap it is going to be. i decided to pass on one and not for sure what to buy now.
I just heard about that extra oil tank deal this week Gary. Part of the emissions system for clean diesels? I was also talking to a guy at the fuel pump the other day who had one of the 6.4 Fords - he said he only got 10 MPG if he was lucky, the emissions on his used diesel in the second stage burning of the exhaust gasses? WTF?

That truck of mine gets 16 all day long - 18+ on the highway flat out pulling an empty trailer and is as comfortable to sit in as the couch I'm on now.

I picked up a new front axle assembly for it yesterday from our local used parts purveyor. Ordered a new set of Rancho front leveling springs, shocks for all 4 corners, new rotors, calipers and pads for the front - which all should be in tomorrow. Got some paint work planned in the next couple of weeks to take care of the rust that's starting to show up and I'm going to be putting on a set of the Bushwhacker wheel flares I always wanted.

Got a road trip to pick up a car coming up in another few weeks after that, want it looking/running good for that trip.

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  #35  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiedlerh View Post
I wonder what the mileage record is for a Pontiac V8 without a rebuild.
I've seen a lot of Pontiacs, but the highest mileage I've seen on a Pontiac was over 300K (I think it was 320K) from a 75 Formula 400 that I bought for parts. The owner claimd he drove the car 80 miles round trip each day to work and back. He said he had never done anything more than replace the timing chain on the motor since he bought it new. It was parked it in the mid-late 80s after it developed a skip. It had some decent sheet metal, but the interior was trashed.

I tore the engine down, and found it had eaten a cam lobe on one of the back cylinders.

Mike

  #36  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:02 AM
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The SD still looks nice too. I had a 1994 RWD Cadillac Fleetwood with the LT1 engine (same 260hp LT1 the Impala SS had) that was the original engine that had never been apart and I sold it with 297,000 miles and the car still looked new inside and out.

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Old 06-09-2010, 08:21 AM
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I just heard about that extra oil tank deal this week Gary. Part of the emissions system for clean diesels? I was also talking to a guy at the fuel pump the other day who had one of the 6.4 Fords - he said he only got 10 MPG if he was lucky, the emissions on his used diesel in the second stage burning of the exhaust gasses? WTF?

That truck of mine gets 16 all day long - 18+ on the highway flat out pulling an empty trailer and is as comfortable to sit in as the couch I'm on now.

I picked up a new front axle assembly for it yesterday from our local used parts purveyor. Ordered a new set of Rancho front leveling springs, shocks for all 4 corners, new rotors, calipers and pads for the front - which all should be in tomorrow. Got some paint work planned in the next couple of weeks to take care of the rust that's starting to show up and I'm going to be putting on a set of the Bushwhacker wheel flares I always wanted.

Got a road trip to pick up a car coming up in another few weeks after that, want it looking/running good for that trip.
that guy is doing great to get 10mpg unless he is in a single rear wheel truck. mine averaged 6.5 to 7 mpg until recently the engine was blown according to the local ford dealer. it had two dead cylinders. tried to get me for 15 to 20k to put a new engine in it. (found out that it only had a 60k waranty not 100k and i was 2k out of warranty) i said bs i would part it out or dump it super cheap before i did that. luckily a guy who lives a couple of miles down the road is one of the best diesel mechanics around and he told me that if i would bring it over to him for 300.00 he would tell me exactly what went wrong and put it back so it would run just like it was. (blowing grey smoke, no power etc...). he called a couple of days later and said he fixed it. all it was was a rocker arm broke. cost me 800.00 including parts. now it is getting 7.5 to 8.4 mpg.

  #38  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:31 PM
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Put a new 2011 pickup bed on it on Monday & sold my old bed yesterday! Picked up a set of 35-12.50-16.5 Tires on American Racing rims off craigslist an hour ago. Wheel flares are going on this week, rockers are getting painted & chip guard & I'll get another 50k out of it.....until I need tires again.

New Bed - $1,500
Old Bed - $750
Tires & Rims - $650



210,454 miles on it now.
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  #39  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:39 PM
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I worked at a Caddy dealer from '93-'94. I remember a guy that traveled back and forth from TN to WI for his job came in for oil changes all the time. It was a '89 or '90 Sedan DeVille with the 4.5L. It had 190,000 miles when I saw it. I've never seen a car rack up that many miles that quickly. I've always wondered how long he kept it and where it ended up.

  #40  
Old 10-16-2011, 08:36 PM
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With respect to Pontiacs, my friends have a '64 GTO hardtop that they bought in '67. About 10 years ago, it had 259,000. Still had the tripower with vacuum parts and factory transistor ignition. They stopped using it as a daily driver around then. The original wheel stud holes had become oval.

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