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  #21  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:24 AM
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i used PTFBs comp spring kit, solid body mounts and tubular upper a-arms with the tall ball joint and an old set of sub-frame connectors. if i had to do it all over i wouldnt change a thing. this is my daily driver during the summer so it gets ran often and hard

  #22  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:12 AM
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Nice! The Comp Springs are stiffer, right? I might upgrade to those someday. I have the rear GT leafs, and the Sub Frame Connectors to install.

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  #23  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uneasyrider View Post
I'm not sure I want to lower the car too much. I have 3.5" collectors and I don't want them dragging anymore then they have to. If I leave the bushings in the "standard" position will this add a little clearance? By the way, I have electric fans so I won't have any clearance problem there. I'm just worried about rubbing the tires shown and dragging the exhaust too much.
My 75 Formula in stock for had a stance almost EXACTLY as your picture.
It had too much gap for me. I have the original 15" Rally Rims.
After all the spring changes I went through after rebuilding teh suspension, in the end the GT springs and the solids in the "wedged" position brought the car down 1 3/4 inch from stock. Was perfect for the 1 day I had them and my 245/60/15s on. I drove it to the store and got 255's and it rubbed. Dave had warned me... Now with the spacers in it is perfect again and looks great.

The solids in the "lower" position might add 1/2 inch more slam.. Not a lot I would guess.
It handles great now with these and the Koni's. I, like 535 Tall Deck, use it as my Daily. But having felt this, now I can see where the comp springs would be great too. (Stiffer), maybe they won't lower the car as much as the GT springs from what I have seen.

You should try the Comp kit. It'll give you handling but may leave you a little more clearance.

I am using all new PTFB steering parts with stock Control Arms with new rubber bushings.

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  #24  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bl1tzw1ng View Post
C5 conversion is the way to go but only if you are going to use 17" or bigger wheels. Otherwise, you can do the S10 conversion for the rear or a 79-81 disc rear form a firebird or a kit from many places.
Most of the 17" wheels that look right on our cars (such as American Racing's vintage series wheels, TTII, 200S etc) don't fit a C5 conversion on a second gen.

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  #25  
Old 02-23-2012, 02:58 AM
70UglyBird 70UglyBird is offline
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Yeah TTII's don't for sure...I'm a little worried about my 18's, I'll know shortly...

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  #26  
Old 02-23-2012, 03:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula8 View Post
Most of the 17" wheels that look right on our cars (such as American Racing's vintage series wheels, TTII, 200S etc) don't fit a C5 conversion on a second gen.
Yeah, true, although grinding down the calipers has done wonders in the past

  #27  
Old 02-23-2012, 12:27 PM
gillyiowa gillyiowa is offline
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Default brakes

Anyone know if the 98 Trans am 12" rotor/caliper set-up will fit the 81 ta rear?

  #28  
Old 02-24-2012, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gillyiowa View Post
Anyone know if the 98 Trans am 12" rotor/caliper set-up will fit the 81 ta rear?


kore 3, i believe , has a bracket for this

  #29  
Old 02-24-2012, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 535 tall deck View Post
kore 3, i believe , has a bracket for this
I got a guy who will give me his stock 11.89"rear brakes/rotors etc from his 89 ta. he is going to the larger c5/6 vette brake set-up. I read somewhere here on the forums that someone bolted them on no problem and still could use the 15" snowflakes. Just need to varify this.

  #30  
Old 02-24-2012, 04:06 AM
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I have 17" American's on it right now (see photo) so who makes a complete C5 conversion kit, i.e. both bigger front and converted rear disc in ONE package? It doesn't have to be C5 as long as it is superior to the stock stuff I have now and better then the factory disc's for the later second gen's. I would like to one-stop-shop for the brake kit so I don't have to hunt for different manufacturers parts when I have to fix something.

I think that PTFB's Comp suspension should do me fine. I can already slap around some modern canyon carvers with my OLD 1974 stuff under the car. lol I read what Jackie Stewart had to say about how to take a corner and went out and practiced it for YEARS. I'm debating on the PTFB upper and lower A-arms just purely do to cash flow. I also need to talk to them about all new bushings for EVERYTHING.

I'm looking at the Detroit Truetrac for the diff. and I will drop the C-clip eliminators since I didn't even think of the breaks being able to hold them in now. Doh! I might still get the stronger axles for added "feel good" factor.

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  #31  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:25 PM
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PTFB's putting me a list of suspension and break goodies together that will get her up to speed and I got my posi on the way. After this the last major things are the interior, a new wringing harness, new weather striping/seals, new window actuator hardware and new side glass... Only thousands more dollars... What the heck, it's only money! lol

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  #32  
Old 02-25-2012, 02:04 AM
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you will not be disappointed.

  #33  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 535 tall deck View Post
you will not be disappointed.
All I can say is I can't wait to get it all under there and go pillage the back roads of America.

P.S. ...and ride off on their women... trim the hedges of many small villages...

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  #34  
Old 02-26-2012, 02:47 PM
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How do you like your American racing wheels? I was thinking about going with the same wheels for my 73. Are they heavy though? How wide 9.5"? Thanks.

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  #35  
Old 02-26-2012, 08:27 PM
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I really like the way they look. I think (I bought them several years ago) they are 8" front and 9.5" rear. They are a bit heavy I think but I don't buy rims a lot so... I really don't have a comparison to other stuff out there. The "sintered/as cast" look was not an option at the time I bought them. I had a hell of a time getting it done by American but the did do it right and they look GREAT!

Quote:
Originally Posted by niceta View Post
How do you like your American racing wheels? I was thinking about going with the same wheels for my 73. Are they heavy though? How wide 9.5"? Thanks.

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  #36  
Old 03-18-2012, 06:27 PM
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Well... I bit the bullet and got EVERYTHING I needed from PTFB last week. It's OTW! The TA will be a cornering braking machine now! Woohoo!

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  #37  
Old 03-19-2012, 10:11 AM
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One other thing besides fan/shroud issues with thinner lowering subframe bushings is the Shaker is tighter against the hood.

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  #38  
Old 03-19-2012, 10:59 AM
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Arrow You are on the right track....

Hey Bret,
Looks like you have picked some good parts that should work well together. For maximum fun I suggest that you sign up for some open track days instead of taking a chance on public roads that are full of motor homes and cops . I ran my TA clone @ a two-day open track rental @ Willow Springs 2.5 mile 9-turn track and had a blast .

My TA's chassis mods: Hotchkis full Sport Suspension Kit, welded CE sub-frame connectors, red Konis, 245/45-16 Nitto 01s on 8 X 16 American TTs, stock size 4 wheel discs, track alignment, tubular drive shaft loop welded across the sub-frame connectors, and stock reinforced a-arms. This was my first time out on track rubber, and it made more difference than any other mod since it's no fun sliding around in a 4100# car
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  #39  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:07 PM
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Sooo what did PTFB set you up with for brakes? Are you running an e-brake?

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  #40  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspin View Post
Hey Bret,
Looks like you have picked some good parts that should work well together. For maximum fun I suggest that you sign up for some open track days instead of taking a chance on public roads that are full of motor homes and cops . I ran my TA clone @ a two-day open track rental @ Willow Springs 2.5 mile 9-turn track and had a blast .

My TA's chassis mods: Hotchkis full Sport Suspension Kit, welded CE sub-frame connectors, red Konis, 245/45-16 Nitto 01s on 8 X 16 American TTs, stock size 4 wheel discs, track alignment, tubular drive shaft loop welded across the sub-frame connectors, and stock reinforced a-arms. This was my first time out on track rubber, and it made more difference than any other mod since it's no fun sliding around in a 4100# car
Love those Pics. That looks like a blast!

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