[Tom Vaught]

Just a comment, You don't run the times that Rodney and Travis run with their 63 Tempest without having a bunch of this stuff figured out.

It might take a while to get there BUT eventually with everyone helping each other you get it figured out.

Tom Vaught

[jdw_poncho]

Thought I would give another update on my car. Even though I dont have pictures of my engine back in at least I'm making progress with the chassis. Waiting on a few parts to start mocking up a new set of headers for the turbo's.

The 25.5 is done and ready for the inspector next Sat. I still have a few gussets I want to add but the cage is ready for him to look at.

The rear end housing will be next, I have to either build a new housing or add a back brace and new housing ends to the current 9" I have. Most likely to save time Ill use the one I have to start out, if I need to shed some pounds I'll build a new chrome moly housing.

I eneded up with a new set of Strange dual caliper rear brakes. Hopefully they will help hold my car at the line with a set of stock front brakes.

After the housing is done I'll get the body back on the chassis and start putting in the tin work.

I've decided to take the car on Drag Week so I'll have to set up a second fuel system and add some wiring.

One of my buddies back out so I might have a empty seat for the 1200 mile trip!! If I dont hurt the twin turbo engine I'll be taking it on the trip. If I hurt it, I'll put in a nitrous motor and run one of the slower classes.

[RAIV-Z]

Jeff,

Your project is moving right along! Looks great.
Was the IA-II block size/location much different than the stock block? We need to figure out where the engine and trans is going to sit in order to locate the 6C bar.

[jdw_poncho]

I built my front and mid plate mounts with the stock block and everything fit when I bolted in my IA2. I didnt have my trans at the time so I built 6C after everything else was put in.

Something you might ask about, will the 6 bars be angled up to the rocker bar to clear your exhuast? If you havent already figured that out I would strongly suggest getting a mock up block and route your exhuast before he welds your inner 2A-B and 6 bars.

Since Im running the car on the street I still have to figure out exhaust placement. I dont think I exhuast running through the fender wil pass MO's safety inspection.

What trans are you using? I bought a JW Ultra HP T400 rated at 2800HP.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I built my front and mid plate mounts with the stock block and everything fit when I bolted in my IA2. I didnt have my trans at the time so I built 6C after everything else was put in.

Something you might ask about, will the 6 bars be angled up to the rocker bar to clear your exhuast? If you havent already figured that out I would strongly suggest getting a mock up block and route your exhuast before he welds your inner 2A-B and 6 bars.

Since Im running the car on the street I still have to figure out exhaust placement. I dont think I exhuast running through the fender wil pass MO's safety inspection.

What trans are you using? I bought a JW Ultra HP T400 rated at 2800HP.

Got a mockup stock block and turbo400 case at the shop. I talked to Mike about exhaust placement on Saturday. The 6 bars are going to be angled up, I'll have to ask about 2A-B.
Nice Trans! I currently have a fairly new TCI T-400 and 8" converter which will need to be replaced

Which converter did you go with?

[jdw_poncho]

I havent bought the converter yet. I want to get a price for a bolt together from Chance but most likely one from PTC. Im not sure what the cost difference is or what I would gain spending the extra money for a bolt together.


Glad he is moving the bars up, Im kinda screwed on mine right now. I wasnt building it to drive on the street.

[BruceWilkie]

With the bolt together convertor you get to tune it to your combo better. Worth it in the long run IMO. As you work your way up the boost levels your stall and slip change.

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

With the bolt together convertor you get to tune it to your combo better. Worth it in the long run IMO. As you work your way up the boost levels your stall and slip change.

I talked to PTC yesterday about a converter. $1000 to buy $200-$300 to change my stall for the standard converter. $2000 to buy a bolt through, I didnt realize there was such a difference in the two converters. I'll start out with a standard conv until I can figure the car out.

[bankbook]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I talked to PTC yesterday about a converter. $1000 to buy $200-$300 to change my stall for the standard converter. $2000 to buy a bolt through, I didnt realize there was such a difference in the two converters. I'll start out with a standard conv until I can figure the car out.

There are a few bolt together's on the bullet. Usually 1-1200.00 in price. Then send it to Marty for the "tune" specific to your combo.

[jdw_poncho]

I keep forgetting how long ago I started this project. A few updates..

Car was put together in a hurry to make it to drag week. Just put a smaller N/A motor in it with plans to run a little nitrous to get by until I can get the boosted engine back together. Didnt do too well at Drag Week but I will be ready for it next year.

Chassis is done and the car drives just fine. It rode a lot rougher than I had imagined it would. I started out with 130lb springs in the rear and loosened up the QA 1 springs in the front. But the 130's just couldnt handle the weight of the u-haul trailer so I cranked them as tight as I could. QA-1 suggested a 150lb spring.

Ended up with a JW t400 trans and a PTC converter. It was pretty funny trying to get the car up on the converter with my little motor. I couldnt get it past 2600rpm's on the trans brake, the converter was spec'd out for a 2000HP engine so its a touch to tight for my little 400hp engine.

Ended up putting flowmasters on the car, hate them! The resonance along with the tin work just about drove me nuts driving down the rode.

Starting building another set of headers for the CV-1's. Had my 78's sold a could weeks ago but they back out. Was planning on stepping up to 88's or 91's. Now I think I'll just try the 78's and get it on the track next year.

[ponjohn]

Cool project.

Do you worry about over heating the trans with a stall and towing?

[RAIV-Z]

Congrats on getting the car on the road and to the track, looks great.

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

Cool project.

Do you worry about over heating the trans with a stall and towing?

Nope, I have a huge plate and frame oil cooler with a 12" fan on it. That was the only thing I could keep cool on the car during the heat. I was pleasanty surprised how cool the oil was after 2-3 hours of crusing around town without the trailer.

I pulled the trailer on the interstate for probably 10 miles in Tulsa during Monday morning traffic along with a few miles of stoplight traffic in town. It never got over 148 degrees. I know it sounds like a cliche, but I could hardly tell it was back there. I had it packed full of tools, spare wheels &slicks, 2 oil changes, 2 cases of trans oil, fullsize jack and stands, air tank, a weeks worth of clothes for two people and 15 gallons of gas.

[twinturrbo406]

... how did your headers turn out for the new heads ?? ... any pic's ?? ...

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by twinturrbo406

... how did your headers turn out for the new heads ?? ... any pic's ?? ...

I have them started but not finished. I thought I had a few build pics but cant find them right now. After I started on them I didnt like how they looked so Im starting over when I get my heads back and when the new T6 turbo's come in. I will say the rear driver side cylinder sure makes a 2" tube tough to clear the steering shaft. I think I've decided to replace the stock steering shaft so it will make it easier to build the headers.

The first try was to have the turbo right where the high beam light is. Now Im thinking about splitting the rad and put them side by side in the center of the car. For some reason it makes it easier to run the exhaust out the front fender.

I have my stock block and another set of e-heads on it right now. Not as exciting as using new parts....

[twinturrbo406]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I have them started but not finished. I thought I had a few build pics but cant find them right now. After I started on them I didnt like how they looked so Im starting over when I get my heads back and when the new T6 turbo's come in. I will say the rear driver side cylinder sure makes a 2" tube tough to clear the steering shaft. I think I've decided to replace the stock steering shaft so it will make it easier to build the headers.

The first try was to have the turbo right where the high beam light is. Now Im thinking about splitting the rad and put them side by side in the center of the car. For some reason it makes it easier to run the exhaust out the front fender.

I have my stock block and another set of e-heads on it right now. Not as exciting as using new parts....

... i thought you already had the heads ?? ... but i cant wait to see what you come up with for your headers ... ... are you using steel, or stainless, or inconel ?? ...

... how much boost are you lookin' to start out with ?? ... the pics are great though, thank you ...

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by twinturrbo406

... i thought you already had the heads ?? ... but i cant wait to see what you come up with for your headers ... ... are you using steel, or stainless, or inconel ?? ...

... how much boost are you lookin' to start out with ?? ... the pics are great though, thank you ...

I did have them, just making one more update before I put them back on. I have enough material to build a set in 304L or mild steel. I still think starting out with mild steel and coating them will be ok.

I was looking for 25-27lbs with the 78's. I think they made 22lbs at 4500rpm but it wasnt climbing very fast. I have to look but I think it made a touch over 1300hp at 4500rpm's so hopefully I'll hit my 1800hp goal. My car weighs 3457lbs, I need all the HP&TQ I can get!

Each turbo is rated at 1200, just not sure how accurate that is. Precision doesnt make them anymore so Im concerned about why they were discontinued.

Trying to learn my new meagsquirt ECU right now. I have it installed a 5.3 LS engine while I figure out all the little settings. Then its going on the race car.

[twinturrbo406]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I did have them, just making one more update before I put them back on. I have enough material to build a set in 304L or mild steel. I still think starting out with mild steel and coating them will be ok.

I was looking for 25-27lbs with the 78's. I think they made 22lbs at 4500rpm but it wasnt climbing very fast. I have to look but I think it made a touch over 1300hp at 4500rpm's so hopefully I'll hit my 1800hp goal. My car weighs 3457lbs, I need all the HP&TQ I can get!

Each turbo is rated at 1200, just not sure how accurate that is. Precision doesnt make them anymore so Im concerned about why they were discontinued.

Trying to learn my new meagsquirt ECU right now. I have it installed a 5.3 LS engine while I figure out all the little settings. Then its going on the race car.

... if you use the mild steel, depending on the gauge, i would suggest "Gusseting" the tubes to the flanges ...

[jdw_poncho]

Originally Posted by twinturrbo406

... if you use the mild steel, depending on the gauge, i would suggest "Gusseting" the tubes to the flanges ...

My plan was to support the turbo from the frame. Should take most of the stress off the headers.

[twinturrbo406]

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

My plan was to support the turbo from the frame. Should take most of the stress off the headers.