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#21
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very good thought, thanks. Unfortunately they're brand new Magnaflows. The sound seems like it's coming from right in front of me, driver's side engine bay. Of course, since my ears on on that side, and my driver's side window is open, I can't say for sure that's really where it is coming from.
The exhaust actually sounds awesome if anyone is thinking about Magnaflows. |
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#22
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OK seriously, I'm going to light my car on fire. On the way home tonight I was hearing a faint ticking sound, so I popped the hood and one of the 2 rearmost plug wires on the HEI is arcing off the firewall. It's not loose, I pushed down on it. It's actually arcing right through the boot itself. That big dumb HEI is so tight up against the firewall you can barely even get your fingers in there. WTF do I do now? This is not only annoying, but I would think rather dangerous as well. I am seriously about through with these damn HEIs, it's been one problem after another with melting buttons, loose connections, screwed up advance canisters, etc.
Can someone help me with the arcing issue? If I can solve that and the tuner gets me in good shape this weekend, maybe I'll be OK with keeping the damn thing. |
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#23
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Small body HEI? Were the plug wires damaged in any way to cause this? Once they start arcing they will never stop.
What's the gap on the plugs? Didn't see that mentioned... |
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#24
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no, a regular HEI (they're freaking huge). I haven't pulled the plugs yet to check them. It's running the internal coil with an MSD 6AL box. Maybe the boot is cut or something, I don't know.
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#25
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I think he may have been suggesting you to use a small body hei to gain firewall clearance. If you are arcing I would definitely check the wires out. Is it possible that you have bad wires and thats what was causing the issues before(burned button) etc? Im no expert but its an idea. How old are the wires? check that plug wire for a split boot at least.
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![]() 1970 GTO 458 CID .040 over 4 Bolt 428 Block, Forged Eagle 455 Crank, 295 CFM SD KRE D-Ports, SD Old Faithful HR Cam + Comp HR Lifters, PPR Maxx-lite rods, Racetec pistons, PRW 1.65 SS Rockers, 900CFM Holley HP TBI, Performer RPM, Hooker Super Comps, 3" X-Pipe into 2.5" mufflers/tailpipes, 2.75 1st TH400, Continental 13" Converter, 8.5" 3.08 Posi. Everything installed, fired up and tuning has begun! |
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#26
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Ahh I see. I've thought about a small body, and I may end up going that way. I think the arcing was from a small split in the rubber boot. It was my fault as usual - That particular plug would not "snap" down on the terminal like it should and it was always loose. I tried to pinch it with some pliers and likely tore the boot a bit.
With that said, I am pretty sure it wasn't causing the issues with the melted button. This arcing just started, it was very audible which is why I found it. The melting cap was happening prior to this. I have come to the conclusion that when using a CD box with an HEI, you MUST use the low resistance button, and even then some guys still melt. It has been suggested by someone here that you should move the coil outside tyhe cap with a modified dust cover, which I looked at. But at that point, why not just buy a Pro billet anyway - I mean you're already going to an box, coil, and dizzy setup anyway, plus you gain the firewall clearance. Oh, and a new set of wires is on the way. For now, I've swapped that particular wire to a different spot so it isn't up against the firewall or anything else it could arc to. |
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#27
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Quote:
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Build it fast, build it right, hold On TIGHT !!! |
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#28
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Thanks. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the noise is something totally unrelated to the engine and I'm just paranoid. One thought I had was that it's something under the dash that rattles/vibrates. The mystery continues.
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