| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#281
|
||||
|
||||
|
love that Sandlewood; nice job
|
|
#282
|
|||
|
|||
|
I worked on the doors today. The glass was crap so I had ordered new tinted glass for both doors. I got my new door panels from legendary last week and they included new felts for the window guides so I installed them. They are peel and stick but I didn't trust them to stick, so I glued them on.
|
|
#283
|
|||
|
|||
|
While I had the door glass out I installed the sound/heat insulation to the door skins. I first cut them into strips about six inches apart (photo 1), then I was able to slide them between the door skin and the brace by pushing them down from the top, (photo two). In order to keep the stuff from sticking halfway down the door, I cut the backing paper about 2/3 of the way down, leaving the bottom part with the backing paper still on. I then slid the insulation behind the brace. Once I got the top to stick, I pulled the bottom part up and removed the lower portion of the backing paper, then stuck the insulation to the door skin. Photo 3 shows the first piece installed and photo 4 shows how it looked when done. I was able to get about 3/4 of the inside of the door done.
|
|
#284
|
|||
|
|||
|
Along with the felt for the window guides, Legendary also included two other felt pieces with the new door panels, (photo 1). I didn't notice where these went when I had the driver's door apart, but when I pulled the passenger door apart, I noticed the forward vertical window track had a felt piece on it, so it was different than the drivers door. Then I remembered my original passenger door was full of bondo, and I had replaced it with a 71 door when the car was in the body shop. Photo's 2 and 3 , show the differences between the 70 channel (no felt) and the 71 (with felt). I don't know if this has been documented on the 1970 specific parts thread. If not, we might have another addition to the list. Also, my car is a Norwood car, and the 71 door I installed was from a Van Nuys car, in case that matters.
Last edited by eaglesan13; 09-02-2012 at 11:59 PM. |
|
#285
|
|||
|
|||
|
I installed the passenger side roof rail weatherstrip and adjusted the door glass, then installed the door panel. I had painted the armrests with the same paint (light sandlewood/tan) I had been using on the rest of the interior trim, but I was unhappy with how it looked on the armrests. The interior fabric is not a flat tan, it is "mottled" (I don't know if that is the correct spelling). Anyway, when I painted the armrests they looked too light. My interior guy said it's because sandlewood is actually two colors, and he knew a vinyl repair guy who could match it, so I had him do the armrests. It's still not exact, but it's much better than it was.
|
|
#286
|
||||
|
||||
|
Man, those sandlewood interiors look awesome but everyone I see appears to be different shades/combos. I think yours looks good.
BJ
__________________
1971 GTO 455 HO 4-speed - Cameo White, White Vinyl Top, Jade Green Interior, Ram Air Hood, AC, Honeycombs and 8-track 1974 Formula 455 I Owned in 1975-1976. Now Own Its Twin From Same Dealership |
|
#287
|
|||
|
|||
|
I am about 99% done with the car. I have an appointment Friday morning to have the front end aligned, then I start hanging some miles on it.
|
|
#288
|
|||
|
|||
|
More interior pictures.
|
|
#289
|
|||
|
|||
|
Here are some exterior shots to show the ride height. The fuel tank is 3/4 full in these pictures. I still need to have the spare tire mounted on the rim, which will add a little weight, but this is probably how it will sit. A tad high for my liking, but it will have to do.
|
|
#290
|
||||
|
||||
|
Chris, I've been watching the thread for awhile now, and let me say you're car looks incredible ! The detail is amazing, I would reallylove to see it in person. Now enjoy the drive time
__________________
'70 Formula 400 '64 Tempest David |
|
#291
|
||||
|
||||
|
congratulations Chris, the car looks incredible! Ride height looks great to me as it sits. You should be very proud!
__________________
'72 Formula 455HO TH400, Revere Silver, black deluxe '74 Trans Am SD 4 speed, Admiralty Blue, blue deluxe |
|
#292
|
|||
|
|||
|
Bravo! That is one realy nice formula!
__________________
72 TA 4 speed 76 TA auto father/son project |
|
#293
|
||||
|
||||
|
Looks great Chris! Congrats!
![]() ![]()
__________________
Steve 1970 Formula 400 (YS) M40 (67-Castillian Bronze / 215-Deluxe Medium Saddle)
1970 Formula 400 (WT) M20 (67-Castillian Bronze / 213-Deluxe Dark Brown) 1970 Ram Air III Formula 400 (YZ) M40 (26-Lucerne Blue / 201-Standard Medium Bright Blue) 1970 Ram Air III Formula 400 (YZ) M40 (26-Lucerne Blue / 211-Deluxe Medium Bright Blue) *SOLD* |
|
#294
|
||||
|
||||
|
Best sandalwood interior I have ever seen, hands down!
![]() Awesome work, Chris.
__________________
keith k 70 Trans Am RA III / T400 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue 70 Trans Am RA III / M20 / Lucerne Blue / Sandalwood 70 Formula RA III / M21 / Lucerne Blue / Bright Blue |
|
#295
|
||||
|
||||
|
Torqula has to go in my "Really, really like" columm.
Drive her with pride, Chris! |
|
#296
|
||||
|
||||
|
beautiful.....the colour combo is stunning.
__________________
Regards, Leigh Pontiacs I’ve owned…. 1960 Laurentian 283 1963 Laurentian 283 1976 Trans Am 400 1977 Trans Am 400 1951 Chieftain Flat head 6 1967 Firebird 400 convertible 1967 Firebird 400 coupe 1979 Trans Am 403 1971 Formula 455 (clone) 1969 Firebird 350 1968 Firebird 428 manual. Sydney, Australia |
|
#297
|
|||
|
|||
|
Just read the last few pages with all the interior work. You know I never knew how the 70 shoulder belts were supposed to be stored. At first I let them hang straight down until I learned (painfully) that they could get caught in the door jambs. After that I always just tucked the belt behind the hook and stuck the end above the sun visor--there was no trace of any elastic on the belt when I bought it in 1988.
Now the fun question: Since you are about done, would you care to share what this "not full resto" has cost? Mine definitely needs more bodywork, but I always planned to do it myself. My interior is mostly done (console carpet seats and headliner) from 1990, although the dash could use repair, and the formula wheel and door panels need help. I like to see numbers because I get discouraged when I see magazine "budget" cars where the budget is $30k. I think I could approach mid teens, but maybe I'm completely unrealistic. If you are one of those who don't keep track (for sanity sake) or want to keep it private, I understand. Thanks
__________________
Matt T Pawtucket RI Waiting restoration: 1970 Formula 400 owned since I was 16, still runs (I think) 1971 Camaro (in pieces) |
|
#298
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks to all for the compliments, they are appreciated. I've been driving the car around for about a week now and it runs pretty good. I keep reaching for fifth gear, but then remember I didn't go with the five speed. When I add the posi I will probably change the rear gear ratio to a 3.31, or maybe even a 3.07. The 3.55's are too low for this engine.
It sure is nice having all the pieces on the car, I can actually walk through my garage now. |
|
#299
|
|||
|
|||
|
Matt,
My receipts total $24,253.42. That includes the purchase price of the car ($2800.00) and the cost to title it in my name ($300.00). However, the receipt total is not an exact representation of the true cost of the build for a number of reasons: 1. Some of the items I used in the build were parts I had (In stock). For example, the air cleaner, carb, distributor, seat belts and some other small items were parts I had, and therefore did not have to pay for. 2. I have a real good friend who is also in the hobby. We swap parts all the time and never pay each other. The rebuilt alternator and some other stuff came from him. Sometimes I swapped items that came with the car and sometimes I swapped stuff I already had, so there is no way to put a value on what it cost me. 3. Horse trading, it's part of our hobby. Sometimes I would buy some parts, use some on the build and sell the unneeded ones, thereby getting my original investment back and make the parts I used "free" to me. I did not include the cost of any tools I had to buy, but I did include the cost of sandblast material and things that I had to buy specifically for this build. In some areas I spent well and got a lot of value for my money, (I only paid $4000.00 for the body and paint work, and this includes stripping the car to bare metal.) That is a hell of a deal, at least where I live. In contrast, other areas wound up costing way too much, (the exhaust for example). Regardless, I think the figure of $24,253.42 is pretty close. Some people on this board might think that is way too high, while others who have done very high quality restorations will laugh and say, "Is that all?" Personally, I think the number is too high, I never set out to do a "restoration" and I still refuse to refer to the car as being restored. NJSteve's Trans Am and Keepat's cars were restored, mine has just been "fixed up." As a side note to anyone who would use my cost as reference in deciding whether or not to buy a builder as opposed to buying a done car, please consider that the car I started with was very solid. I did not need to replace any floors, quarter panels, the tail panel, etc... The window frames were pristine as well. If any of these areas would have needed attention, the cost would have gone up considerably. Regards, Chris Quote:
|
|
#300
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
As many have said, that is one awesome car and color combo. Congratulations!
__________________
http://www.starspangledbannerchallenge.com/ |
| Reply |
|
|