[hotrodrx]

I would like to get opinions on aluminum body bushings vs stock rubber bushings. I am thinking of installing aluminum biscuits on my 67 conv. project. Any input is appreciated. Thanks and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!! Bill

[David Jones]

Why do you want to take one layer of comfort out?

[HaloMedic]

Rubber bushing were not just for a bit of cushion but to keep the body quiet an aluminum bushing over time will wear or even crush due to body flex also unless there is a insulator of some sort its gonna get sqeeky over time. JMO

[irgoatmike]

I'd wanna guess the ride would definitely get firmer and noisier. Irgoatmike

[b-man]

Convertibles are a quite bit more flexible than their hardtop brethren and really could use some help.

It makes sense to add some stiffness to the body to frame interface on a convertible but I'd opt for some slightly flexible urethane body mounts rather than solid aluminum.

I plan to replace all of the body bushings on my '64 LeMans convertible with urethane.

[hotrodrx]

Thanks for the replies. I suppose urethane may be my best way to go according to the negative information on aluminum. My 67 conv. that is together really is spongy and it has stock bushings. I really want my project conv. to not have that "air ride" feeling.
Bill

[Colin Frolick]

i put urethane bushings on my car years ago and it made it much much better. that along with more modern seats made feel much more solid.

it now has aluminum bushings, though i haven't driven it yet. i got them here http://abcperformance.net/othercoolparts.html

i'm a fan of "nvh" in the old car.

[Fishin2Deep4U]

I put in aluminum after poly. The poly squeaked and chirped so bad I couldn't take it. The aluminum bushings are dead quiet.

The ride is no worse, in fact, it greatly firmed up the boat handling ride. It's now firm, but very controlled. And I still need shocks.

I plan to add weld in subframe connectors to firm it even more. I have already done del-a-lums and global west coils. I go need rear springs, and they will also have a higher spring rate than stock.

Nothing bad about the aluminum I can detect. In fact, later model f-body cars went to solid bushings. Let the suspension do it's job and toss the rubber parts.

JMO

Dave

[hotrodrx]

I put in aluminum after poly. The poly squeaked and chirped so bad I couldn't take it. The aluminum bushings are dead quiet.

The ride is no worse, in fact, it greatly firmed up the boat handling ride. It's now firm, but very controlled. And I still need shocks.

I plan to add weld in subframe connectors to firm it even more. I have already done del-a-lums and global west coils. I go need rear springs, and they will also have a higher spring rate than stock.

Nothing bad about the aluminum I can detect. In fact, later model f-body cars went to solid bushings. Let the suspension do it's job and toss the rubber parts.

JMO



Where did you get your aluminum bushings from? Ram Air Restorations? Thanks, Bill

[Greenbird76]

I have a 76 Firebird, so I needed to over come uni-body flex. I am building my car primarily as a street car with the possibility of an occasional run at the track just for fun. IMO, 2nd gen f bodies offer a very good base to build a great handling car.
As far as body bushings go, I have had OEM rubber; Energy Polyurethane and solid aluminum in my car. My current set up is a set of solid body bushings by PRotouringfbody, Gen II sub-frame connectors welded in. My suspension is rebuilt with all new OEM rubber bushings on friction producing parts except for the sway bars which have Poly bushings, TRW coils, Eaton leaf springs and a set of bilstein HDs. As far as unibodies go, this now is the best handling 2nd Gen firebird that I have ever owned. Hands down. Here is my opinion of each style body bushing.
-The rubber bushings where the shot worn originals so my experience with them was not good. Guys looking for stock ride and comfort love them from the reviews I have read.
-The Poly ones tightened up the car hands down. They do allow some flex which was evident with the slight squeak heard when I applied the brakes aggressively. You can use Energies Lithium grease to quiet them but reapplication would be necessary.
-I installed solid alluminum bushings offered from a company called Protouringfbody. I installed them first without the sub frame connectors and drove the car on the weekends for about 8 months. With just the solid bushings alone, the car felt much more solid over all. A month ago, I finally got around to welding in the pair of Gen II sub frame connectors I got from the same company. I originally installed a set of Monroe Sensatrac shocks all the way around when I rebuilt the suspension 3 years ago. They are a great performing shock for a daily driver and provide a soft ride. Around turns and hard cornering- not so much so I replaced them with a set of Bilstein HD shocks to top off the suspension for now. And I can say is WOW! the car is solid. Tight around corners and stays level when I punch the gas. I point the car where I need it to go and it just goes. No sway, no creaks or any such noises from body flex are history.
My next plan is a set of tubular upper control arms, but that will not be for a while.

some other tidbits-
-Replace the fasteners when doing body bushings. Energy's bushings come with new heavy duty hardware, Grade 8 I would say. I actually reused them for the aluminum bushings due to the high quality of the bolts and washers.
-The ploy and aluminum bushings were around $80 each thus are very affordable. The aluminum ones have the option of "wedging" them to the body if you prefer, lowering the front by about 1/2 inch. I did not do this and set them to stock height.
-For those F body fans, the sub frame connectors were about $180 shipped, come with the option of bolting them in, welding or a combo of both. I bolted the fronts of mine to the sub frame and through in a couple tack welds for strength and ease of removal if I need to remove the sub frame again. The rear portions are welded nicely to the rear frame rails.
-The Bilstein's were $282 shipped to my door from www.ajusa.com if any body is interested.
-I have driven the car only with the poly and solid bushings and can say that there is a slight amount of driveline vibration increase with the solid ones. Especially in cold weather. IMO, the improved handling characteristics greatly out way that. And I am not building a Cadillac LOL!!
Hope this helps somebody

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Fishin2Deep4U

.... Let the suspension do it's job and toss the rubber parts...

JMO

Dave

Exactly.

There's still rubber mounts to isolate the draintrain from the frame, and if you want it softer, go to a softer shock and/or taller tires. Or buy a Cadillac.

.

[Fishin2Deep4U]

Originally Posted by hotrodrx

Where did you get your aluminum bushings from? Ram Air Restorations? Thanks, Bill

Mine are a global west copy. I had some spare time and access to the machine shop. Even hard anodized.

Dave