The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:39 PM
GP Fan GP Fan is offline
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Default Did I take some bad advice? Vinyl Top

I am in the process of restoring a 69 GP. It was painted factory fathom green a couple months ago. I am planning to put a vinyl top on it, so before it was painted I called a guy who does vinyl tops and asked what I should do with the roof and area under the vinyl (base, clear, primer). He said just put a couple coats of base down without clear because the adhesive for the vinyl will stick better. So I told the paint guy to do that. He sprayed clearcoat around lower back window and 3/4 way up pillar and just base on the rest. Now, I have been reading some posts and most guys are saying to spray the whole area under vinyl with clear to seal it better. Am I an idiot for taking this guys advice or am I OK? The car will not be out in the elements and will rarely see water but I would definitely rather put the clear on now if that is necessary than have a rusty mess on my hands in 10 years. Any opinions?

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Old 01-07-2013, 12:47 PM
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400 4spd. 400 4spd. is offline
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Honest answer---If the glue is any good it's going to dissolve the base coat. Plus, it will not deter moisture. Don't cheap out now, get a couple of coats of clear on the roof. Then allow some time for it to cure out before you end up trapping the solvents with the v/top.

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Old 01-07-2013, 01:27 PM
Txbobcat Txbobcat is offline
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I removed a vinyl roof off of a 77 Gran prix. After I got it off I used gasoline to remove the glue and it was all painted from the factory.

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Old 01-07-2013, 01:40 PM
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gtome gtome is offline
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Agreed. Id seal it up, and if the top needs a better bite to stick to, rough it up with a scotchbrite.

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Old 01-07-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 400 4spd. View Post
Honest answer---If the glue is any good it's going to dissolve the base coat. Plus, it will not deter moisture. Don't cheap out now, get a couple of coats of clear on the roof. Then allow some time for it to cure out before you end up trapping the solvents with the v/top.
Oh great. So you are saying I should move this post to the Resto Blunders section?? Was hoping I could get by with just a couple coats of base. I guess I am glad I asked because I would rather clean up a small mess now than a big one later. The paint guy is kind of a friend so I will just have to go back to him with my tail between my legs. At least this wont be a big cosmetic fix will just have to tape it off and blow some clear on it. Still chaps my backside though. 2 steps forward and one step back.....

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Old 01-07-2013, 03:39 PM
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That's just my opinion, based on 38 years of body and paint experience. Plus I have a restoration business, and that's how I do them.

I'll also add that I like to scuff the top with 220 or 320 grit to knock the shine down and aid adhesion, like gtome suggested above.

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Old 01-07-2013, 08:34 PM
Cammer-6 Cammer-6 is offline
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I use single stage urethane under the roof,I think its more durable than clearcoat
that vinyl is porous and is like a sponge.

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Old 01-08-2013, 10:17 AM
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OK. I will talk to the paint guy. I will probably wait until this spring to have anything done. I am hoping with a project like this since it will be covered up anyway I can just roll it out in the driveway on a calm day, tape the car off and spray a couple coats of clear on it and I am only set back a couple hours and a few dollars. I dont know much about paint and body, and I waffled back and forth on this decision before it was painted, so I am really kicking myself over this. I have to admit that I am a little disappointed that the paint guy didnt fill me in on all of this before he sent it home without clear. Oh well, just another bump in a long and rocky road.

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Old 01-10-2013, 01:20 AM
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cuz68 cuz68 is offline
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My car was painted about 27 years ago with no clear coat top was also painted, I had the vinal top put on about 6 weeks later it was summer time, My top looks like the day it was put on. True story. Does this make you fill any better?

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Old 01-10-2013, 02:22 AM
rexs73gto rexs73gto is offline
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The more product on the roof under the vynl top the better off you are as it will seal it up better. If you scuff it with 220 or schotch brite you will be opening up areas for the moisture to get into again. I would seal it with the clear & leave it set for about 2-3 weeks in the HOT sun so it can cure & that way there won't be any opening in the clear for the moisture to get in under that rust holding top. I had a vynl top on my car & when It was repainted in 1980 I took it off & saw what it does to a top of a car that NEVER sees rain & only enough water to wash it caused it to rust through in the lower corner by the back window,,,, I didn't put that rust saver back on. My brain say no vynl tops ever again!!!!!!!

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Old 01-10-2013, 09:32 AM
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Good info guys, since I plan to be doing two vinyl top cars in the future. Both are cars deserving a proper restoration.

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Old 01-11-2013, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuz68 View Post
My car was painted about 27 years ago with no clear coat top was also painted, I had the vinal top put on about 6 weeks later it was summer time, My top looks like the day it was put on. True story. Does this make you fill any better?
Thanks Cuz68,
That eases my pain a little, but I am still going to apply a clear coat to the roof. I wont be able to sleep at night if I dont. Plus I dont want to have the feeling that I cant get a drop of moisture on my car because it will turn to rust. Really it probably isnt a big deal, more upset with myself for not doing a little more research and doing it right the first time. Would have saved me some trouble.

  #13  
Old 01-11-2013, 11:43 AM
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Painting 2-3 coats should do it.Clear will only help if it cures properly. The glue is also a moisture barrier and be put on the top and paint to seal it.....JB.

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