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#21
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Or just use www.photobucket.com pretty easy and works just fine
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#22
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And as most her say, label box and take a lot of pictures.
Also try to think ahead, my advice is that you first strip the body you do not need to take apart every single item an example is the dash, just take it out as a complete unit. When you are done lift it from the frame and ship it to the paint/body shop, then take out the engine /transmission and send it to the shop, then goes the suspension and rear axle. Now you can start with the frame, in my mind this is the first part of the car that should be restored if you take a ground up restauration, then suspension and so on. Both the paintshop and engine shop will take time, try to plan ahead and order part early, you will get an idea of what you need when you start to take the car apart, take notes of everything that does not work or need repairs as you go. |
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#23
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Here's something you should keep in mind also-
Restoring a car is like hiking the Grand Canyon. Walking down to the bottom is slightly challenging and very rewarding. Coming back out will nearly kill you. Tearing a car apart is like walking into the Grand Canyon. Putting it back together is MUCH more difficult and time consuming for reasons you will soon understand. I use photobucket. Pics are never too large and I do nothing. Perhaps their software autosizes it for insertion to bulletin boards. From looking at Mad's posts, I think he's one of our younger set...I'm sure he'll have no problem figuring it out.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#24
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Pictures pictures pictures! I've got over 20GB and 12,000 photos of all the cars I've brought back from the dead. It's great for reference and helping put things back together (also for helping others in the same spot). And it feels even better having a little restoration journal of your progress when you're done.
Personally I don't like taking entire cars apart, I do things pieces at a time just because I don't have the room nor the stable living situation to be able to do that. |
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#25
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I had it all planned out in my head but I think I went wrong when I took things apart without noting where they go back. I plan on getting the bolt/screw sets to replace the rusted/old bolts and screws. If you consider 25 young then yes I am... but this is a dream project that's been waiting to be done. Okay photos can be found at the link below. I thank Loffen for the idea! Comments and suggestions are encouraged on the car condition and what should be done (Besides label, tag, and take pictures of everything) I got that point! Trial and Error I expect because this is my first build/restore.
Also since the car has been sitting around it collected a lot of dust so what you seen in most pictures may not be rust but dust ![]() What would y'all recommend I do to get all the dust and dirt off the car? I was going to pressure wash it but I'm afraid of adding more rust to the car. Would it be okay to do so or should I air blast it all? Also what parts of the car should or can be sandblasted? Thanks for everyone's comments and feedback. http://s1287.beta.photobucket.com/us...ntiac%20LeMans |
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#26
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When it comes to cleaning it so will you clean every part anyways, just get some of the dust of the body and when you get the body of the frame you pressure wash the frame and engine.
I do not sand blast anything with a grease fitting or a bearing in it except when I am going to change the bearings. Also stay away from all large metal panels like the hood and quarter panels, sand blasting will strech the metal (Soda blasting is another story) |
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#27
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By the way, did you take a look at my tread ? If not please do, it took two weeks to take it apart and 8 months to put it back together with almost all the up and downs..
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=679791 |
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#28
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From the pics I can tell you it's not a Pontiac engine in your car. It's had an Oldsmobile engine put in it at some point. If you have a Pontiac engine available you might want to go with that while you have it apart. Front fenders aren't too bad but will need some patch panels and the quarter panels are fixable.
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1971 GTO,72 400, stock bottom end, 670 heads, Lunati BMII cam, headers, iron intake Q-jet, four speed. Best 60 ft 1.806in 2004. Best 1/8th mile e.t. 8.46 with 3.55 open rear 85 Grand Prix, 70 400, casting 62 heads stock rebuild, Turbo 350 trans 78 800 cfm Q-jet modified as per Cliff Ruggles book. 87 F350 6.9 4 speed dually A poor man has poor ways. |
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#29
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The body doesn't look too terribly bad actually....except in the dash area. Maybe I'm not seeing it right or I missed it somewhere if it was mentioned but it looks as if someone actually cut the metal dash out of the car? That will be problematic but nothing that can't be overcome. Replacing all the underdash stuff, assuming you didn't pull it all out yourself, will be like trying to put a puzzle together without a picture of what the completed subject is. It can be done but you will need a lot of references there. That's where these forums will be a ton of help.
It does have an Oldsmobile engine. From the blue color, I'd guess it came out of a 2nd Gen Trans Am. I'm with Ben. I like to keep as much of the original car in place as practical and only replace what's no longer usable. You'll find as you go along that reproduction parts sometime leave a lot to be desired when compared to NOS factory equipment or properly restored original parts from the car.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia Last edited by Greg Reid; 01-20-2013 at 12:50 AM. |
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#30
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The thermostat housing is angled wrong to be from an F-body. Also the cruise control diaphragm is '73-77 Olds only vintage and won't fit on an F-body with a shaker setup, same with the alternator brackets (what ones are left). Also has A.I.R. tubes. I'd speculate it came out of a '75-78 Olds something or other. Easy enough to look up the codes and figure it out though.
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#31
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#32
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guys you are all correct but for me I did my G-Body 70 GP non orig 4 speed .Had it done in about 2.5 years /Did a bunch of bartering and selling off spare stuff and never looked back.Ive had the car for 35 years and my son will get it when Im gone.Now Im stupid enough to a take on a basket case 65 GS post 4 Speed .I just enjoy doing it...It is so much easier to put together when everything is clean and new.My advice would be buy a donor car or ever two maybe and be willing to spend alot of time selling parts .I bought a 69 SJ for 1300 and sold the interior and shell for 1800 .Still have the 428 and the tranny.I have to say all the things mentioned are very very true! you have to have a reason to want to do THIS car .I saw a 65 Buick GS 4 speed go for 12500 on mecum right after I started my 65 project and I had 8 K in 2 pieces of crap.You can buy a nice car for 25 .Thats the minium in material cost you will net in a restore
Couple links http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=537814 http://www.flickr.com/photos/1758694...69009156/show/
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BOB SLUSSER 937-286-4343 |
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#33
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My opinion is to be realistic and put it all back together, cleaning and painting as you go doing everything yourself if you have the ability. Paint it in your driveway or garage with cheapest materials available yourself. Put a Pontiac motor back in it if ya have one. Get it in running and driving condition and enjoy it as a "driver". Unless you are independantly wealthy and have ALOT of time, this is the way to go for a common Lemans. Should only cost maybe a grand if you are resourceful and you'l be enjoying it in a couple months. This is what I do with this class of car in simlilar condition. Then I drive em for a year or two and sell them or trade em up for another car. Good luck. What I described is an enjoyable way to experiance the classic car hobby and you don't lose your ass in doing so.
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Catalemans 65 Lemans 4dr 326/2speed 67 Lemans 2dr 400RA/TH400 |
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#34
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I also did my first restore when I was around 25 years old (67 Firebird). In some ways it was easier- parts were still available in local junkyards, etc. But in some ways it was harder- no internet forums for advice and the supply of restoration parts was much more limited. But, and this is big- I also had already graduated from college, had a good-paying job, and had my own house with a real double garage.
If I remember I put about $15K over a period of a few years into that Firebird to get it really nice, doing most everything myself including bodywork/paint and the engine build, but that was 25 years ago. Fast forward to now. I just recently finished my 69 Lemans vert. Well, never really finished but now more in tinkering and maintenance mode. This one cost me over $40K to do though I did farm out the engine build, and exterior paint and bodywork to others which added some to the cost. I kept a running total which is attached just so you can see how it quickly it can add up. Keep in mind that I started with a pretty functional driver in much better shape than the car you are working on. As for getting your money out of it, forget that. I look at restoring a car as a hobby, and all good hobbies are expensive. If the "restoration adventure" is worth it to you, and the car is what you want and you have the cash needed then go for it. But if you just want to own a classic car then go buy one because its a whole lot less expensive than doing one yourself. As for how to do it you are already getting some good advice here. I prefer to do mine in phases instead of tearing the whole car apart and rebuilding it all at once. Less intimidating, helps spread the cost, and I get to drive in-between phases. Lots and lots of pictures, tag and bag parts, keep a running notebook with sketches and notes. Use original parts wherever possible. Sounds like you got a bit ahead of yourself with the tear-down but suggest that you stop now and organize everything the best you can before doing anything else. If it were me I would concentrate on cleaning it all up and reassembling, fixing mechanical/electrical systems as I went along to make it road worthy. Forget about cosmetic details for now. Just getting to this point will take a bunch of time and money. Then drive it for a while and plan next steps. As for the engine there are plenty of us that have perfectly good running Pontiac 350's without a home. You should be able to find one very cheap or even free with a little hunting around. If you want to go fast I would make a high-perf Pontiac engine swap part of a later phase. Remember that building for hi-horses involves more than just the engine. The trans, rear end, suspension, cooling system, etc. all need to be up to the task which adds to the cost and complexity.
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1969 Lemans vert, matador red, 462 CI, 3.07 12-bolt posi 1974 455 TA, admiralty blue/red interior HPP "cover car" - sold "The best way to show a car is to drive it" |
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#35
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That Lemans looks to be a decent car, to restore. My GT-37 appears to have more rust issues than this car. I too plan on restoring it one day. Just gathering all parts that I need, while keeping it a driver. Most importantly having fun with it. While the parts are being collected. I would also say pictures, labeled boxes, bags etc will help in the restoration process.Years ago my son and I redone his Camaro , we labeled items, took lots of pictures. That really helped us to put it back together years later.
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() Last edited by 2002Z4CSS; 01-20-2013 at 01:17 PM. |
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#36
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There is a lot of good advice here, don't think that guys are being negative, it is just experience talking. My car had very little rust, I did not pull it off of the frame. The only thing that I had trouble with was to run the fuel line over the rear axle.
My best advice for you is to figure out what you want. I spent a bunch of extra money by putting factory rally gages, body side moldings, and vinyl top on the car. If you want to enjoy the car, but don't need it to be factory restored, then figure out what you want. Stock suspension, disc brakes, OD trans, aftermarket parts? Rebuild one of the engines you have, or just find something to plug in? The best thing that I did with my car was to get the body painted, then have it brought back to my garage to assemble without the front clip installed. This made it very easy to install the drivetrain, front suspension, and wiring. No worries about scratching up the fenders by leaning over them to do everything. If you know what color you want the car to be, then get the jambs and inside of the doors and trunk painted. Get the rough bodywork done on the car, then get it assembled and running. You have a bunch of mechanical work to be done, and cars go back together much harder than they come apart. Get a plan, take pictures, and try not to get discouraged. Some of my best decisions on the car was learning when to walk away when I got frustrated, and then try again 2 days later. Have fun, Mike
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No Pontiacs in the garage right now..... |
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#37
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Quote:
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
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#38
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Quote:
My latest (re)aquisition was my old '87 Chevy pickup. I was able to totally restore it cosmetically, in 5 months, for about $3500 - in my driveway - while I was using it as my daily driver. Admittedly, I had an advantage in that I had built this one (and about 900,000 just like it) prior to pulling it apart. Additionally, a pickup is kinda cool because you can do a "half frame off" by pulling just the box, but without pulling the cab. Here's a link that documented it as it progressed, which some of you might find interesting. There may be a trick or two in there that you find handy. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.56 @ 139 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
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