[Deadhead]

Some questions about voltage regulators-

I have come to find out that my voltage regulator is the issue with all the gremlins in my '66 wagon. All was well at idle, and if I was working off straight battery, but when RPMs got up was when I was blowing fuses etc. Yes, those lights have seemed awful bright, but I figured all my ground cleaning etc. was responsible. Little over 12v at idle but getting 15-16 (same as straight off Alternator) inside the car with RPMs up.

Points on the one in the car are all but gone. So, I have several regulators in my stash. The problem is that none of them have any numbers on them. 2 I know came off '66 big cars, one is from a '63 big car, and one is a solid state I bought with no numbers on it. None have any specs on them either. I would buy a new solid state, but I have not been able to find anyone selling them that I can identify as correct for a 389 AC car. I would much rather have that than the mechanical.

My first question is - what the heck is the Difference? There are a bunch of different part numbers, but all we are trying to do is regulate a constant 12V DC, so how are they different? I really want to use the solid state one, so I put it in, and cranked the defrost. I get 11.9v reading at idle with defrost on and 12 with RPMs up. Did not tax it beyond that with headlights etc. on as well.

One of the regulators I have still has the factory tar on it from the firewall. Its points look perfect and not only that, it has 2 points of adjustment - one on the spring and one on the points. The other one looks to be a new Echlin with no adjustment. I did not look at the '63.

What are the possible issues from using the wrong regulator?

Is there any way to test to know what you have?

Thanks for your knowledge and thoughts.

[stellar]

The original with the tar should have a number on it. how many coils were in the original? 1 or 2?

[Deadhead]

All have 2 exterior and one interior coils.

[joeg]

I have addressed this issue many times in past threads so here goes. I have a complete library of technical Delco Remy training manuals with all of the numbers and specs on regulators and other electrical items, generators, alternators, etc. You get me the number and I can tell you what it is.

Also, I have solid state regulators installed on ALL my 66' Bonnies with AC and I can assure you they function just fine. Years ago I performed extensive bench tests on the solid state regulators and came to the conclusion it will work as stated.

Joe

[Engine-Ear]

Bruce, both stellar and joeg bring a lot of cred to this discussion.

NAPA online search:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...0060%2b2060004

VR-142SB, VR-142, VR-140 all are candidates - do you have 3 wires or 4 wires connecting to it? (Three, I suspect) Now, which one is a solid state design, I do not know...

[Deadhead]

Mine has 2 wires. The correct part # is 1119511, which claims to be for all 37, 42 and 52 amp Delcotron.

I have been through this before. I end up finding #s all around this one but not the EXACT one. Like a 515 which is for Tempest.

Here is an example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Remy-1...af260a&vxp=mtr

This has part #s all around mine and then lists cars with more voltage needs and engines that are larger and smaller than mine as being correct. This lists the 515 Tempest application, but also much bigger cars as well. I know it could be crap b/c of the source, but it is just an example of what I am talking about.

I have reviewed some of the old threads, but I don't find any that address the regulator application etc. like I was originally talking about. I think I am going with the load the bastard up with all the accessories on and if it is still at 12v inside the car I am good. That is what I am after right? Constant 12V in the car? Why don't they just list the Amp specs and # of wires for these so we can know what will work? I suspect a solid state one like the one I put in can be configured for any # of wires since it is just a circuit Bd.

Are these 10DN and 20DN more generic & modern #s that can be used to source the correct part?

If I use the wrong one am I going to limit the charging to my battery? My assumption is that this is this only for regulating the voltage INSIDE the car?

[hobbygto65]

Why don't you put a 10SI on it and get rid of the regulator?

[stellar]

Just put the 511 or a 511 replacement on and it should work. You will want to see about 14 volts when it is working. I don't know if a solid state reg for a 515 will work or not. I have never used one for the 511 replacement. The 515 mechanical reg will not work.

[Keith Seymore]

So what causes the proliferation of part numbers?

Why would GM release several different parts for what appears to be the same application?

K

[65WJ]

If you do not like the look of the solid state then pop the cover and replace with an original. Thats what I did years ago on moms GTO.

patrick

[stellar]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

So what causes the proliferation of part numbers?

Why would GM release several different parts for what appears to be the same application?

K

$$$$$$$$ is my best guess. The original 1119515 and 1119511 will not interchange due to a different wiring schematic.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

So what causes the proliferation of part numbers?

Why would GM release several different parts for what appears to be the same application?

K

Zactly! That is why I am trying to find the specs. When you get a NAPA Echlin replacement they do not offer 2 dozen different part #s for this type regulator.


"If you do not like the look of the solid state then pop the cover and replace with an original."

This is what I just did.

I am going to put another one in and see if it makes the same voltage as the solid state. If so, I am going to run the solid state and keep the other one on hand in the car.

Thanks for the replies guys.

[stellar]

12 volts isn't enough and 16 is too much. I think you should put in a new 1119511 or equal replacement. If you can't find one locally, I have seen them on ebay. If you don't want to do that I can supply you with a proper replacement regulator. At 12 volts the battery will become discharged. At 16 you may damage the battery, alternator or bulbs.

[Deadhead]

Stuck in the presumed OEM Delco regulator. It does not have a part # on it anywhere that I could find, but it is identical to the one in the shop manual as far as I can tell. Points and all other parts appear as new or very close. It could only have come off a '66 Bonneville AC car. Cleaned up everything to make sure it gets a good Gnd.

Initially was making 15.8 with RPMs up. Too close to what I had before for me, so I dialed the little cog shaped adjustment counter-clockwise ultimately probably a full turn. I did it by using some ancient needle nose in the grooves, moving one lug at a time until I got to 14v at idle and 15 under acceleration. This moved the contact to the top side. I did not change the spring adjustment. I see no reference to this. I assume if I get oscillating lights I will need to adjust this.

Please let me know if there is anything out-of-whack with what I did here.

[Heybuck]

Bruce, when I bought my '66 Grand Prix I had continual issues with bad regulators. I had the fuse blowing problems like you describe but more often was the problem at idle the lights would go dim and sometimes fluctuate between dim and bright as it idled.

Tried several regulators then I gave up and asked an auto elec mate for some help.

His immediate response was to forget about the old regulator and to fit a new alternator with an internal regulator. He used a 1998 Ford Falcon unit, it was a direct bolt on fit. I think it puts out 85 amps but I might be mistaken on that. Whatever it is, I know it has a greater capacity than the old Delco unit.

Looking at the car, I would defy anyone to instantly recognise the alternator is not the original unit. We left the old regulator on the firewall but the wiring has been disconected in the loom so it all looks factory original.

The part I like is that I could go to any wrecker or parts place over here and pick up a replacement if I ever had an issue with it. Which I doubt I will.

Ian

[joeg]

Time to move on from those piece of crap mechanical regulators. As I stated I only use Delco solid state regulators on all my cars. Attached is a photo of the 1116370 that I have on my 66' Bonnies with AC. If you want to keep your car looking original this is a good way to go.
NO REGRETS!!
THIS IS A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINAL MECHANICAL REGULATOR 1119511
I can bench test these units and I have components to rebuild them if necessary.
If you have one to rebuild let me know, I can help!

Joe

[stellar]

Now thats a regulator.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by joeg

Time to move on from those piece of crap mechanical regulators. As I stated I only use Delco solid state regulators on all my cars. Attached is a photo of the 1116370 that I have on my 66' Bonnies with AC. If you want to keep your car looking original this is a good way to go.
NO REGRETS!!
THIS IS A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINAL MECHANICAL REGULATOR 1119511
I can bench test these units and I have components to rebuild them if necessary.
If you have one to rebuild let me know, I can help!

Joe

I totally agree. I would much prefer this to the mechanical. If I could find one I would do it. It looks a lot like the TI regulators.

So where do you find one of these?

[65WJ]

it is and they are on Ebay all the time. I put one on my 66 Bonneville.

patrick

[Deadhead]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GM-DELCO...de3b5b&vxp=mtr

$300! Hopefully I can do better than that.