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Old 10-25-2013, 11:53 PM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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Default HEI swap now car won't start

I just swapped a Unilite for an HEI in my 68 GTO now I can't get it started. I removed the resistor wire from bulkhead and ran a 14 g wire from there to hei cap and spliced a wire from the solenoid to that same wire. I get little over 12v in run and during cranking it's almost 11, I am currently still using same E3 plugs . I double checked the wire routing and that I installed distributor correctly, at tdc of #1 compression stroke all is good. I thought I might of had a bad module so I changed and it still won't work. Someone told me that with the original externally regulated alternator set up it would fry the modules ? I get spark my timing light is lighting up and I have fuel, flow is good from fuel line and into carb. I'd appreciate it if anyone has any ideas I tried everything I could think of and I'd like to get her going before winter.
Thanks!

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Old 10-25-2013, 11:58 PM
dmac dmac is offline
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If you are getting spark, I would recheck the firing order for the plug wires. HEI also had different plug gap. You should be able to run with no alternator or regulator. Suggest wiring directly to battery with everything but fuel pump (if electric) disconnected to determine if HEI is bad..

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Old 10-26-2013, 12:02 AM
67cruiser 67cruiser is offline
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Don,t forget wires go in counterclockwise. 18436572

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Old 10-26-2013, 01:18 AM
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Since your timing light is flashing, make use of it and see where your timing is. It really doesn't take the distributor being off much to not fire off the engine.

Nothing to do with your current problem, but I personally would replace the 14ga wire with 12ga.

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Old 10-26-2013, 10:43 AM
Icefan71 Icefan71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed View Post
Since your timing light is flashing, make use of it and see where your timing is. It really doesn't take the distributor being off much to not fire off the engine.
X2. Your timing may be off just a hair.

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  #6  
Old 10-26-2013, 11:05 AM
ELKHORNAOG7 ELKHORNAOG7 is offline
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You may want to check and make sure you are on the comp. stroke for # 1 cyl. if not you will have to set your wires for # 6 cyl.-----BOB

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Old 10-26-2013, 12:01 PM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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Gentleman thanks for your input I'll go thru and check everything all over again and try some of your ideas and see if it won't fire up.

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Old 10-26-2013, 07:59 PM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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I must have a wiring problem. I checked plugs for spark with a plug tester all seemed good then hooked up timing light , didn't work?, hooked it to my truck and it worked fine.
Could it be the way I have hei wired up. I removed the cloth covered wire from bulkhead and replaced it with 14g wire, I then spliced a wire from R on solenoid into that as my power wire, did I goof up with the wiring to the HEI ?

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Old 10-26-2013, 08:42 PM
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You should only need one 12v wire going to the dist. The one wire to the solenoid should be coming from your ign switch. Some systems were wired with a second wire from the solenoid to supply 12v to the dist while cranking but after the key was released power would flow through the resistor wire at a reduced amount so the points wouldn't fry. This is the one you replaced but the second one isn't needed with the HEI. Sounds like you may have something else not hooked up correctly though. Are you sure the coil is good? Sometimes you can get some spark but not enough to fire. It should have a defifite snap when it fires the plug. I've also seen the button inside the cap detiorated to the point that it wasn't making contact anymore. Is this a new HEI?

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Old 10-26-2013, 10:21 PM
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Nothing wrong with the wire from the solenoid supplying starting voltage to the distributor. An alternative wiring hookup would have been to bridge Ign-1 and Ign-2 at the switch and run one wire to the distributor. Picking up start voltage from the solenoid works fine.

I wouldn't make too much out of not having your timing light working. Many times an inductive timing light will not fire off at cranking speed. I started my earlier response "Since your timing light is flashing..." because most times mine will not flash until the engine starts up. Checking static timing would have just been much easier if the light had worked.

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  #11  
Old 10-26-2013, 10:31 PM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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I have all new summit parts in the HEI. I'm just really getting stressed caused it won't fire up no matter what I try. I didn't know that about the timing light good info to know. Well back at it tomorrow.

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Old 10-26-2013, 10:36 PM
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Did you remove the ballast resister/wire?

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  #13  
Old 10-26-2013, 10:40 PM
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Default No fire

Had same probelem. Changed in cap coil. Fired up.

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  #14  
Old 10-26-2013, 10:42 PM
tooski tooski is offline
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Also once had problem with the non stock connectors hooking up to the coil connectors.

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  #15  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:39 AM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Are the plugs fouled?




Simplified HEI diagnosis here:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref5.html

  #16  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:48 AM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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Resistor wire is unplugged from bulkhead and all my plugs are clean. Coil is new from Summit but I'll check it, you never know.

  #17  
Old 10-27-2013, 01:09 AM
dmac dmac is offline
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I'd try spraying some starting fluid in the carb. If you don't get it to fire, maybe not run but at least fire, with starter fluid, then you have an ignition/spark problem. If you get some firing with starter fluid, but it won't 'catch' then the problem is in the fuel, timing,. but not likely in the coil or HEI, other than timing.

Then I would try running a wire straight from the battery to the dist.

You don't know where the problem is now. If if runs with the direct 12v hook-up but not with the original hookup, its the wiring. If it doesn't run or start or kick over with the direct connection, it's in the HEI, ignition, timing, or fuel. You need a plan to diagnose the actual problem, and not just try everything.


Last edited by dmac; 10-27-2013 at 01:16 AM.
  #18  
Old 10-27-2013, 07:53 AM
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Talking 12VDC wire!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac View Post

Then I would try running a wire straight from the battery to the dist.

.

Darn, thats what I was gonna say!!

I have it wired a little differently, but might help.

I have the original IGN2 wire from the firewall on a relay powering the HEI.

So I have a 12ga wire from Battery on terminal (t) 30
IGN2 wire on T86
HEI power wire on T87
Ground on T85

This is so the key turn the car on and off. This is in 67 Tempest Wagon.


67 Tempest Coupe has a wire coming from battery to a toggle switch. Then to HEI + terminal. Works flawlessly.


That said, I have had many many Pontiac's 180* out so make sure you were def on compression stroke of #1. I like to remove the valve cover when I check.

One last thing, unless the harmonic balancer is new, don't trust the zero mark as it might have spun.

HTH,
Dave

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  #19  
Old 10-28-2013, 04:45 PM
phk1967 phk1967 is offline
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Thanks guys for all the help. Anyways I had a chance to really get into it today and go through everything only cause the wife was at work. It ended up being a carb problem. I swapped it out and it fired up on first try, now I need go through the carb and fix that problem.

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