[hurryinhoosier62]

What was your final RA on the deck, Paul?

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

What was your final RA on the deck, Paul?

It's almost like glass. Around 8-10 RA. I didn't actually test this block. The CBN bit does a beautiful job. The camera flash sometimes makes it look like it's been broached, but it's just an optical delusion! I have tested an aluminum head I surfaced in this machine that had an RA finish of 8.

[gtofreek]

More pics.

Pic #1= Centering up the boring bar. Fingers extend out of the bottom of the boring bar head, and locate the boring bar which floats on air until locked down. Fingers are contacting block above top ring ridge, but below the valve relief chamfer. This way I'm not centering the boring bar up on a worn part of the cylinder.

Pic #2, 4, and 5 = Boring the cylinders. I have a habit of skipping cylinders, both when boring and honing. I do this so heat transferring from one cylinder to the other has a chance to dissipate before working on them. More critical on siamese cylinders.

[gtofreek]

Pic #1 = Boring the last cylinder! You can say this is a boring job! Literally! I like to use a flashlight on the deck so I can see down into the cylinder while boring to see how far it has to go or to make sure it's cleaning all the way around.

Pic #2 = All done with the boring stuff!

Pic #3 = .01075" or 10 and 3/4 thousandth's to hone until my final size of 4.155". This will give these pistons .0046" clearance. We leave at least .009"-.010" to hone. This way it insures two things:
1- That I hone all the way through the boring bar tool cut lines.
2- That I have plenty of room to get the cylinder completely round once torque plate is bolted on.

[gtofreek]

Pic 1 = Bottom of cylinders are sharp. Some had some factory chamfer, but this is cut with some sort of cutter bit and is rough and jagged. After boring it has a sharp edge where the cylinder ends and the chamfer begins.

Pic's 2 and 3 = I radiused the chamfer with a burr, and then sanded it with a tootsie roll!

[gtofreek]

Pic 1 = Getting ready to hone

Pic 2 = Rough honing from almost .011" down to .007" from final size.

Pic 3 = Rough honed and cooled off.

Pic 4 = Same part number gasket as what will be used in final assembly is placed on deck to be used with the torque plate. For those who don't know what a torque plate is, it is a plate that is torqued down to the deck to simulate the cylinder head being torqued down. This pre-distorts the cylinder so when it is honed, it is honed round for when the engine is assembled. Otherwise, if not done with a torque plate, the cylinders will be round when you install the pistons, but when the heads are bolted on, the cylinders distort a fair amount. This distortion can take 10,000-20,000 miles for the rings to wear into, and fully seat.

Pic 5 =Torque plate installed. Stud nuts torqued to 110 ft. lbs. with ARP Ultra lube.

[gtofreek]

Pic 1 = After torque plate is bolted on, and the cylinder has cooled down, I have .008" to hone. I will use roughing stones to hone it down to .004". It will take honing about .003" -.004" before cylinder gets round again.

Pic 2 = Honing away.

Pic 3 = After cooling down from rough honing, I switch to a finer, intermediate stone to hone it down to .001" from final size. I have .0047" to go.

Pic 4 = After cooling down, I have .0011" to go. This is where I switch to the final stones I will use for the finish I want. This finish will be for a Moly ring. Now I will finish down to the zero.

[gtofreek]

Pic 1 = Size at the top of cylinder. this gauge reads in tenth's. Meaning each increment is .0001" or one ten thousandth of an inch. That is 1/30'th the thickness of my hair. One revolution around this gauge is .010".

Pic 2 = Size in middle of cylinder.

Pic 3 = Size at bottom of cylinder.

Now I let it cool down. It will shrink up a little bit. Tomorrow I will Touch it up and get it back to zero, then plateau hone it. A plateau hone is a bristle brush, impregnated with very fine gritty powder that breaks the peaks off the cross hatch, or plateau's them. This way the rings don't have to do it, and the rings will seat faster and easier, and last longer. Pics of final job to come.

[Ron Landis]

car is sans GTO dash emblem and quarter panel chrome trim...as per later cars. Get ready for the "experts" to tell you how "wrong" that is. LOL Neat and rare opportunity for you and your family...good luck! BTW...I have the factory bulletin somewhere with the dates that these items were discontinued...just sayin'.

[GOAT WHORE]

Originally Posted by Ron Landis

car is sans GTO dash emblem and quarter panel chrome trim...as per later cars. Get ready for the "experts" to tell you how "wrong" that is. LOL Neat and rare opportunity for you and your family...good luck! BTW...I have the factory bulletin somewhere with the dates that these items were discontinued...just sayin'.

You forgot the non padded A-pillars

[gtofreek]

Pic #1 shows that the cylinder, after honing to the zero yesterday, shrunk up .0004" at the top after it sat overnight stabilizing.

Pic #2 shows the cylinder shrunk up .0005"[or 1/2 a thousandth] in the middle.

Pic #3 shows the cylinder shrunk up .0005" at the bottom.

Pic #4 shows the size at the top after I bumped it back out to the zero, or final size.

Pic #5 shows the size in the middle after I finished.

I would have a pic of it at the bottom but my camera batteries died just as I tried to take the pic. After I got new batteries in it, I took a shot, but it was blurry. I could post the blurry shot, but I figure, whats the point. It's zero down there too.

[gtofreek]

Pic #1 shows the first bank[left] all done, but still oily.

Pic #2 shows, the cylinder after finished to size, but still showing the bore gauge lines running down the cylinder. These bore gauge lines don't hurt anything, but they drive us nuts. We swishy hone a few strokes with very light pressure to remove the lines.

Pic #3 shows the cylinder after I removed the bore gauge lines.

Pic #4 shows the cylinder on the left has been brushed with the plateau hone, and the cylinder on the right has not been done yet. After brushing, the cylinder will feel like glass. The un-brushed cylinder will feel like a finger nail file. The rings are much happier and seat easier after the plateau hone. The un-brushed cylinder just wears the rings more as they try to seat.

[68GoatMan]

Awesome thread!! Subscribing. Nice work guys!

[gtofreek]

Here is the cam. The "Stump Puller". 230/236 @ .050", 112° LSA.

Pics of the oil pan and pickup, along with the balancer.

[1969GTO]

why the deep pan for a street car?

[GOAT WHORE]

Ever watch your oil pressure drop when you take right hand corners with a stock pan? I run one of these on my 70 and they have awesome oil control. Hard long corners no longer a problem.

[1969GTO]

my car is mostly strret drive,some 1/4 stuff once in a while.
I don't get into many high speed turns or cornering on the street.
I have the stock 6qt pan,windage tray and crank scraper.

[GOAT WHORE]

So finally got to work on the car again today. We put the valance and bumper on a few weeks ago and did some fitting. I should back up a bit and say that when we were fitting the front clip we did a little tweeking of the bumper to make it fit the fenders and hood better. The bumper really was in great shape to start with. We cut this 2x4 to fit inside the nose and drilled out the backside to accept part of my porta-power. Placed the porta-power between the engine cross member and bumper to push the nose away from the hood just a tad.


Well we had the bumper on the car and had to make the fender meet the bumper in places and now we have to make the bumper meet the fenders so we used epoxy repair material out of a gun. Paul at fast, a member here, has given direction in great detail about how to repair the endure bumpers and I am trying to follow his directions. Here are a few samples of two different epoxy repair materials that we are using.

The upper one is the thicker of the two and we used it to build the bumper out to meet the shape of the fenders.

Mike built it up on the car and sanded it to the correct shape then we took it off again to sand the back side that you see here.
Next time we get to work on the car we plan on using the thinner of the two epoxys to do most of the other repair on the bumper.

[GOAT WHORE]

So thought I would share a photo of the bumper repair work. The material to the left is sanded and the glossy material on the middle and to the right is spread out, dry and ready to sand. Lots of work for sure.

[Greg Reid]

What'd you wind up using?