[jtwoods4]

More Updates:

Rear End Suspension Complete. Gas Tank Installed.

Test fit some 17x9 Rally II's and 15 inch Rally II's at the end of the video just to see what the different wheels and tires looked like.

REAR SUSPENSION AND WHEEL TEST FIT VIDEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KSQi...ature=youtu.be

[niceta]

Is that the stock 12 bolt or is it wider than stock?

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by niceta

Is that the stock 12 bolt or is it wider than stock?

Its the original 12 bolt that came in the car, so stock. I did replace the axles with Moser heavy duty axles. They are about 3/16 longer than the stock axles. So the overall wheel base is about 3/8 wider.

[jtwoods4]

sorry I haven't posted in a few days. took a little break while waiting on parts to come in. front disc brakes should arrive this Wednesday. install the subframe connectors last week here's a picture.

Subframe connector Video link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cs0NoBDDUo4

[jtwoods4]

Well after several weeks of research and brake system design calculations I finally received my custom brake setup from Keith over at Custom Works Products. Great work Keith they look beautiful.

So here is the story. I want to run the Year One 17x9 inch Pontiac Rally II wheels on my 70 Trans Am. They are way less expensive than a custom made 18 inch Rally II ($200 vs. $600) and they just look great. I also wanted to run a Wilwood big brake setup to compliment the rear D154 Floating calipers and 12.19 inch rotors. I looked at the Wilwood Forged Narrow Superlite 6 piston kits and after taking several measurements of the inside of the year one wheel and looking at the diagrams on the wildwood site, it was determined that the FNSL 6 Piston setup would not fit in the 17x9 Year one wheel. I am only talking about a fraction of an inch causing clearance issues but the fact is that they will just not fit inside the wheel. Also, the Wilwood kit comes with a 12.88 inch diameter and .81 inch thick rotor without curved vanes. This is just not enough rotor for the demands of hard driving on road courses like Road Atlanta or Carolina Motorsports Park.

So after talking with several expert brake designers throughout the country, I finally decided on the Wilwood FSL4 Caliper, a Custom 13 inch diameter and 1.25 inch thick slotted, directional curved vain rotor, and modified 1979-81 Firebird Spindle with the larger outer bearing. The FSL4 is a lower profile caliper than the FNSL6 and successfully corrects the clearance issues on a Year One 17x9 Rally II. The clamping force on the 4 piston caliper is also actually more than the 6 piston wildwood calipers. I also selected the aluminum hats in order to dissipate the heat better. EBC Yellow Stuff pads were selected.

Here are the final results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COMsP...ature=youtu.be

[jtwoods4]

Control Arms Sandblasted and painted. New Afco bushings and balljoint pressed in. Came out nice.



And here is the new upper balljoint installed. I actually removed it and installed it though the top instead of through the bottom like in the picture. I wasn't sure about the torque on the bolts that hold the ball joint in and after doing a little research people are doing between 10 and 20 lbs so I torqued them down to 15 lbs. I hope that's ok :-?



And the final install

[jtwoods4]

Front Passenger side disc brake installed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHMQE...ature=youtu.be

[jtwoods4]

FRONT END DONE!!!! SHE IS BACK ON THE GROUND!!!


VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dR6KkuX-lE

[jtwoods4]

This weekend I pulled the original engine with 87,000 miles on it. Replacing with period correct 400 setup for road race performance and a tremec 5 speed.



You tube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPbeqH-n9tk

[jtwoods4]

Recieved my restoried original gauges from Auto Instruments today. They rebuilt the speedo, converted the tach to work with a modern MSD, calibrated the gauges, rebuilt the speedometer, replaced the bulbs, glass, and refaced the numbers and colors on the gauge faces, and re-numbered the odometer. Very Nice.

One question... if you look at the third picture you will see the back of the small gauge cluster (voltage and fuel) and there is a small hole that the bulb goes in.

This bulb gets power from a small wire and rubber grommet that connects to the back of the bulb. However, the harness does not have anything that will securely hold the bulb in place, its just a rubber cup with a contact in it. How do I get the bulb to hold firmly in the back of the gauge cluster??????

[transam1972]

you are missing a metal insert that goes in the hole, to secure the bulb

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by transam1972

you are missing a metal insert that goes in the hole, to secure the bulb

Do you know where I can get one of the metal inserts?

[transam1972]

I will take a look at mine and see exactly what it looks like as I just happen to be repairing my clock...perhaps someone with an old set of gauges with that part to spare

[transam1972]

if it is not stuck to the bulb socket, it fell off..perhaps ask in the parts wanted...really you just need to secure your bulb in the gauge to light it up...the missing part actually secures the plastic bulb holder..sorry I cannot post a pic.,but it is not a part you can make

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by transam1972

if it is not stuck to the bulb socket, it fell off..perhaps ask in the parts wanted...really you just need to secure your bulb in the gauge to light it up...the missing part actually secures the plastic bulb holder..sorry I cannot post a pic.,but it is not a part you can make

Well I just found a 78 Trans Am Fuel/Voltage Gauge cluster for sell on ebay for 27 bucks. The wire and the bulb were still in the socket so I ordered it hoping the small clip would still be in the socket also. Sure enough, it was there and was a direct swap. Thats the most expenses clip I have ever ordered

Latest Update. Installed original gauges that were restored by auto instruments and converted to work with MSD distributor.

Also modified the frame the accepts solid bushings in the front. The bushing video has 3 different sections. Before the modification, during, and after.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0HVsh_QnHw


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wm2Xg...ature=youtu.be

[necdb3]

The bulb socket should be on the harness

[jtwoods4]

Originally Posted by necdb3

The bulb socket should be on the harness

The socket was on the harness but the small metal clip that presses into the socket and holds the socket into the gauge cluster was missing. I must have lost it when I removed the gauge I think it fell down into the gauge and was lost at the shop that restored the gauges.

[jtwoods4]

Keith over at Custom Works in California has helped me design the brake system. I decided on a Manual Brake setup so I would have more "feel" on track days. Here is the Dual Master cylinder we selected with 3/4 inch bores and 3/16 lines. It is made by CNC in San Diego. That size will help lower the amount of pressure required by my leg on the Manual Brake setup.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zZh0s2ce0Q

[jtwoods4]

Made a custom brake push rod today to work with the new manual brakes and the CNC dual master cylinder. Please watch the video and make any comments if you see any design issues with the pushrod. I think it is going to hold up just fine but second opinions are always nice

The video is long, shows the design, install, and finished product. The design shows how I sleeved the hole in the brake pedal to make it a snug fit for the bolt that goes through the brake pedal and hiem joint..... anyway, enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdJIB...ature=youtu.be

[Formulabruce]

Watched it, good video work! Couple thoughts.
1. Very interesting changing the angle of the pushrod, as you most likely changed the angle of the master? Manual disc cars dont have the master facing the sky though usually,Why did you need a different angle>?
2. The factor "stud" is a grade 8 welded pin. Since your bolt is "probably" smaller, and threaded, it "may" have less shear strength. I would consider a grade 8 bolt for this mission since it appears you dont have a safety net ( the factory front to rear set up where if rear fails front still works). I would lube it some too, use a metal locking nut. IMHO.
3. Since the position of the rod is in a different spot, the pedal height and brake switch will probably need adjusting, and Im guessing down. It appears this will be a short travel distance set up?
Lots of cool engineering in this car!! I really hope you like driving it and its not too stiff and handles well..
Looks good, and thanks for posting all the great pics and info
PS, Gonna run DOT 5 in this??