[HJones1313]

I'll make this short. When I did a rear disc conversion using S10 parts, I found it necessary to fab some spacers. Then last week I found these on eBay, from seller ID S10 Warehouse. Nicely laser cut spacers, and only $29.99 a pair. Got them already, just have to wait for a bit warmer weather to try them on.

[MNBob]

Thanks for the info. I will be doing my conversion in June of 2014.

[dracowizard]

Interesting to see this thread.Makes me wonder about these spacers as I've obtained a rear caliper setup from a 2001 blazer I plan to use on my project65.Seems I remember another member who had used the same setup as i and mentioned some slack after installing the setup and had to make some sort of shims.Maybe these would be something I could use as well.Is the S10 setup much like the Blazer setup i'll be using?

[HJones1313]

S10 pick up, S10 Blazer, GMC Sonoma, S15 Jimmy, T15, all the same. I think that other member you remember was me...a couple of years back. These spacers are a more elegant solution to the problem; if you have any questions I'd be glad to help. I made extensive notes about the conversion, which you may find useful.

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

S10 pick up, S10 Blazer, GMC Sonoma, S15 Jimmy, T15, all the same. I think that other member you remember was me...a couple of years back. These spacers are a more elegant solution to the problem; if you have any questions I'd be glad to help. I made extensive notes about the conversion, which you may find useful.

Wow....has it been two years already! Appreciate your input and help.Once I took a good look at these pcs you found on ebay I was curious of their thickness.Reason being I have a set of custom made axle retainers I bought from Jim/MONZA in ohio.These retainers are approx. 3/16 thick and that has me wondering if a set of these could be used for spacing the rear backer plate as well as using a set for the intended use of holding the axle in.Unfortunately I haven't been able to begin fitting my suspension yet, but I'm close so I've also looked into how to make a workable E-brake. I remember discussing it may be possible to adapt a e-cable by having the ends mod by a cable rig company.I also have looked into having new units custom made by Bruin Brake Cables.The custom pieces would be more expensive and maybe not my option if I could get the riggers mod done.All involves me making certain I get the length correct.I also realize I must fit my rear disc setup to my diff with the axles to get a proper spacing for "shimming".So I am curious of the thickness of those plates as I believe what may work for your setup could work for mine.I'll have to keep in touch or at least keep your contact info handy.I shot some pics of my axle retainers today so as to share if anyone was curious.Better hush for awhile.I get started and get carried away!

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

Wow....has it been two years already! Appreciate your input and help.Once I took a good look at these pcs you found on ebay I was curious of their thickness.Reason being I have a set of custom made axle retainers I bought from Jim/MONZA in ohio.These retainers are approx. 3/16 thick and that has me wondering if a set of these could be used for spacing the rear backer plate as well as using a set for the intended use of holding the axle in.Unfortunately I haven't been able to begin fitting my suspension yet, but I'm close so I've also looked into how to make a workable E-brake. I remember discussing it may be possible to adapt a e-cable by having the ends mod by a cable rig company.I also have looked into having new units custom made by Bruin Brake Cables.The custom pieces would be more expensive and maybe not my option if I could get the riggers mod done.All involves me making certain I get the length correct.I also realize I must fit my rear disc setup to my diff with the axles to get a proper spacing for "shimming".So I am curious of the thickness of those plates as I believe what may work for your setup could work for mine.I'll have to keep in touch or at least keep your contact info handy.I shot some pics of my axle retainers today so as to share if anyone was curious.Better hush for awhile.I get started and get carried away!

Time flies. The spacers are 1/4" thick. I'll know how they fit when it gets warmer here! I did my e-brake cables like this. First, find a pair of S10 Blazer or pickup parking brake cables in the junkyard, cut the frame ends off, pull the braided cables out; you don't need the housings. The brake ends have the necessary closed hook style terminations, and I got the cable tension springs as well. Get a pair of replacement GTO cables (Advance Auto Parts had the best price for the cables, at $18.99 each). Cut one end of the cables off, then simply put the S10 cable into the GTO housing. The S10 cable is sealed in clear plastic, and slides in very smoothly. Last, find someone to swage new frame ends on the new cable, only after you get confident that the length is OK. Oh, and the junkyard cables were $1.34. It all comes out looking like it came that way. Hope this helps.

[dracowizard]

"Time flies. The spacers are 1/4" thick. I'll know how they fit when it gets warmer here! I did my e-brake cables like this. First, find a pair of S10 Blazer or pickup parking brake cables in the junkyard, cut the frame ends off, pull the braided cables out; you don't need the housings. The brake ends have the necessary closed hook style terminations, and I got the cable tension springs as well. Get a pair of replacement GTO cables (Advance Auto Parts had the best price for the cables, at $18.99 each). Cut one end of the cables off, then simply put the S10 cable into the GTO housing. The S10 cable is sealed in clear plastic, and slides in very smoothly. Last, find someone to swage new frame ends on the new cable, only after you get confident that the length is OK. Oh, and the junkyard cables were $1.34. It all comes out looking like it came that way. Hope this helps"

Good info on the ebrakes.I obtained the e-cables from the blazer I got the rear setup from.I've also got some good quality ecables/housings that came from a 66 that I may cleanup a little and use.That would need me having the frame ends done.Today I was speaking with a mechanic friend and explaning to him how I need to do the setup and mentioned the redo of the frame ends and he told me ,he understood theres supposed to be a tool available at LOWES that will do just that.That has me curious and may see if I can locate such a tool.Looks as you may get around to exchanging your spacers before I do my brakes and if or whenever you do.could you do some pics to kinda show just how these new pieces install etc. Thanks,DeWayne

[HJones1313]

Good info on the ebrakes.I obtained the e-cables from the blazer I got the rear setup from.I've also got some good quality ecables/housings that came from a 66 that I may cleanup a little and use.That would need me having the frame ends done.Today I was speaking with a mechanic friend and explaning to him how I need to do the setup and mentioned the redo of the frame ends and he told me ,he understood theres supposed to be a tool available at LOWES that will do just that.That has me curious and may see if I can locate such a tool.Looks as you may get around to exchanging your spacers before I do my brakes and if or whenever you do.could you do some pics to kinda show just how these new pieces install etc. Thanks,DeWayne

Glad someone can use the info Dwayne. So you've got all the parts you need to make the new cables (except the ends). I cant grasp how the spacers I bought work exactly, but I hope it'll become clear when I take 'em apart again. I'll keep you posted.

Howie

[dracowizard]

I mean to ask you if told me your original spacers were made from taking some sort of spacer and cutting it so it would just slip over the axle.But is it mounted behind the backing plate? These ebay pcs look as though that's the only way they would work is if mounted against the diff flanges before mounting other hardware,so that's going to good to learn. Later,DeWayne

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

I mean to ask you if told me your original spacers were made from taking some sort of spacer and cutting it so it would just slip over the axle.But is it mounted behind the backing plate? These ebay pcs look as though that's the only way they would work is if mounted against the diff flanges before mounting other hardware,so that's going to good to learn. Later,DeWayne

You're exactly right about the spacer (see pic). I just cant figure out how the eBay ones figure into it. Maybe I'll pull one side apart tomorrow and take a look.

[dracowizard]

Appreciate the pics.So the spacer pcs you made appear to actually recess into the backing plate.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

Appreciate the pics.So the spacer pcs you made appear to actually recess into the backing plate.

Yes, not ideal, but they worked. I was out in the garage last night with the intention of doing one side. Got everything ready and......my floor jack quit, sooo, I spent the evening repairing the jack. Will finish that job off this morning, and will hopefully have a spacer update today.

[HJones1313]

Well, fixing the jack didn't go well, in fact I left it apart and gave it away on CL free stuff. Bit the bullet and paid $80 (half-price) for a 3 ton at Harbor Freight, put the heater on and got one side torn apart. The spacer goes between the axle flange and the backing plate assembly to take up the .250" difference when going from drum to disc (on an S10, but I assume the A-body is identical since I had the same problem in the first place). Ran out of time to get it put back together today, so tomorrow is the plan.

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

Well, fixing the jack didn't go well, in fact I left it apart and gave it away on CL free stuff. Bit the bullet and paid $80 (half-price) for a 3 ton at Harbor Freight, put the heater on and got one side torn apart. The spacer goes between the axle flange and the backing plate assembly to take up the .250" difference when going from drum to disc (on an S10, but I assume the A-body is identical since I had the same problem in the first place). Ran out of time to get it put back together today, so tomorrow is the plan.

Good to know this as this is what I figured this may be the way they installed.I may take my pcs I bought for replacing the stock axle retainers and have my brother make me a couple more sets,but maybe after I try fitting my current setup.Need to get a move on and have my gears set so I can do mock ups/prefits. Appreciate the update.Hate your jack went out on ya.I've still got my 3ton Craftsman jack I've had for the last 25+yrs.Been wanting to take risk and buy one of the Aluminum jacks from HF myself but just haven't pulled the trigger.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

Good to know this as this is what I figured this may be the way they installed.I may take my pcs I bought for replacing the stock axle retainers and have my brother make me a couple more sets,but maybe after I try fitting my current setup.Need to get a move on and have my gears set so I can do mock ups/prefits. Appreciate the update.Hate your jack went out on ya.I've still got my 3ton Craftsman jack I've had for the last 25+yrs.Been wanting to take risk and buy one of the Aluminum jacks from HF myself but just haven't pulled the trigger.

I can't complain about the jack, I bought it used 30 years ago. Don't buy one of the aluminum jacks, they don't like any lateral movement at all, and the side plates buckle. I guess the more expensive ones would be OK, but I've seen too many bend, and the 1.5 ton aluminum jobbie that I got at Pep Boys wouldn't even lift my Goat, so I took it back. I'll do the brakes tomorrow and take some pics.

[HJones1313]

Well, I should have known better when I couldn't figure out how the spacers would make a difference....they don't. Actually they do make a difference, in that they make the already large (.250") axle end play into .500". I'm sticking with my originals that I made which ride against the bearing, have good caliper alignment, and are already made. There has to be a difference between the S10 rear end and the BOP 10-bolt rear end; I just don't know what that is. Anyone wanna buy a pair of very lightly used S10 axle spacers......anyone?

[dracowizard]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

Well, I should have known better when I couldn't figure out how the spacers would make a difference....they don't. Actually they do make a difference, in that they make the already large (.250") axle end play into .500". I'm sticking with my originals that I made which ride against the bearing, have good caliper alignment, and are already made. There has to be a difference between the S10 rear end and the BOP 10-bolt rear end; I just don't know what that is. Anyone wanna buy a pair of very lightly used S10 axle spacers......anyone?

Bummer to hear after your investment & effort that these pcs don't seem to do the trick. Suppose I need to get a feel for how much slack I have to be concerned with once I do some prefit.Then i'll know about what size i need to make.Appreciate the tips about the floorjacks.Makes me appreciate my old craftsman even more now!

[Scarebird]

I am working on a new design that uses the drum-in-hat setup; should have test pieces back from the cutters in about 2 weeks. This will dispense with the spacer nonsense and allow the use of bolt in axles.

Stay tuned...

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by dracowizard

Bummer to hear after your investment & effort that these pcs don't seem to do the trick. Suppose I need to get a feel for how much slack I have to be concerned with once I do some prefit.Then i'll know about what size i need to make.Appreciate the tips about the floorjacks.Makes me appreciate my old craftsman even more now!

I didn't figure this out, it was Donovan (another member). Simply put, you take the thickness of the drum backing plate; .130", and deduct from the bracket/backing plate of the disc setup, .380", which arrives at .250". This spaces the axle mounting flange by .250" creating the end play. The gap has to be filled, hence the shims.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

I am working on a new design that uses the drum-in-hat setup; should have test pieces back from the cutters in about 2 weeks. This will dispense with the spacer nonsense and allow the use of bolt in axles.

Stay tuned...

Now you tell me...LOL! Look forward to seeing the parts.