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#21
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Good point about the ground strap on the back of the head. Since this car was a 6 cylinder to V8 swap there's a good chance it's missing.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '74 Ventura 350 '69 AMC Javelin SST |
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#22
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One other note - I am pretty sure the GTO emblem in the 1/4 is just a marker light and should not blink.
I did not know the ground straps were so crucial. I don't have any and mine revs fine, but it doesn't idle for s*%t..
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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#23
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Is this the ground strap that goes from the pass head to the firewall? If so, I know it's there. I will make this car rock eventually.
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#24
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Yeah, that's the one.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '74 Ventura 350 '69 AMC Javelin SST |
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#25
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When I hear "I put it in Drive and it dies" unless it is instantly cutting off like the key is switched off, I think "major vacuum leak usually related to the PCV" personally...
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#26
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Darth-
Hang in there and don't get frustrated. What is happining to you has happened to everyone. How do you think they got to be good at doing what you are trying to do. I also experience days like the one you came a cross. I do the same thing you did, stop and pick back up the next day. Sometimes trying to fix one problem gives you three new ones.
__________________
1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
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#27
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X2. Darth what condition is your carburetor in? The reason I ask is that ethanol in today's fuel gums them up. Remove it, disassemble it, and put it in a gallon bucket of carb cleaner that you can get at autozone, the one with the strainer. Get you a carb rebuild kit and change out the gaskets and jets. Drop the tank, clean it out and put in fresh ethanol free gas. Also as stated earlier check your timing and vacuum lines and I think you should be good.
__________________
1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
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#28
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Quote:
As far as the vacuum lines...I just did replace them all (oddly I have a "lack of power" thread which ended up a concensus that it is the vacuum lines. Only question that has come up is the plumbing of it is off compared to factory..and that PCV thing I don't think is plumbed in the right place. I seriously don't mind doing this type of stuff, as long as it's not all in vain
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#29
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I should note that when put into drive, when it is about to stall, I can give it gas and it will go. It's not a definite stall. If I wanted to pin it everywhere I go, it would work fine (until I stop at a light that is) Not sure if that makes a difference, but I thought i'd mention it
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#30
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Quote:
Your PCV grommet or valve itself could be bad. |
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#31
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Easiest way to check for a vacuum leak is to put your hand over the
throat of the carb while the car is idling in park. If the engine speed picks way up you have a vacuum leak. A common vacuum leak on Pontiac v-8's is the intake manifold gaskets not sealing because at some point head work was done and the cylinder head surfaces were milled but the intake surfaces were not, causing the angle between the two castings to be different and then the intake gaskets don't seal. I've seen it many many times on customer's cars over the years. To fix it the intake has to be milled until the castings come together with no gap then new intake gaskets installed. The symptom you have does indeed sound like you have low vacuum. |
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#32
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Yes! this is sounding good (in a way). I am going to find this vacuum leak tomorrow with some carb cleaner at my side. Now I feel odd having two threads that end up with the same conclusion (vacuum). I thought this one was more a gas related issue, and was started the night I had a few brews after fighting with this thing (and wanting to drive to to Downtown Edmonton and having the Somalian gangs pimp it out). I by no means am claiming I know what I am talking about, and I am just going by what is being mentioned here, but this silly vacuum line that goes attaches to this PCV thing and then attaches to nowhere relevant...
first picture is the PCV valve that attaches to a hose at a fitting in front of the intake........ this second picture shows the hole that it sits in . As you can see unless I am on crack, the PCV valve sits in the hole, but is not actally plumbed into anything. I by no means am a mechanic (in case anyone here can't tell that), but this valve sucking in a tonne of air might not be helping the situation :
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#33
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Where does the other end of the rubber hose go?
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#34
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the one end attached to a 90degree fitting in front of the intake. It attached to the pcv valve shown, and that pcv valve sits in the hole seen in the second picture.
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#35
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so, I went through the thing with carb cleaner..spraying every vacuum fitting, around the intake, carb, etc...and not a single time did the idle change. Kind of kills out the thought of the vacuum doesn't it?
Once it was warmed up, i didn't push the choke in and then put it in drive and it didn't die. It idled high when I didn't push the choke in, but it didn't die. Guess it's time to take the carb off and clean/replace it? I guess try that and then I can tune it as per that website. |
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#36
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the PCV valve goes into the hole in the valley pan (under the intake manifold) and goes to a 90 deg elbow fitting in the intake manifold in front of the carb. See pic
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#37
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If you left the choke closed and it didn't die when you put it in gear, that seems to indicate that it's dying in gear because it's going lean. Can you keep it running with the choke open if you give it some gas? If you don't have any vacuum leaks it could be the idle mixture. Could also be a gummed up carb if the car sat for a long time before you bought it. If it's an older carb modern fuels can do a number on the soft parts inside it.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '74 Ventura 350 '69 AMC Javelin SST |
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#38
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That is the way mine runs too.
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#39
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Quote:
I have two options for temporary drivability and not have it die on me: 1) I can start it, let it warm up and drive it with the choke closed (aka the lever is all the way out.) It is very little power and might eventually die, but it can drive OR 2) I can start itm let it warm up, puch the choke in and put the petal to the metal everywhere I drive. It will drive, but I cannot stop, not for a stop light, stop sign, pedestrian or family of ducklings. Petal to the metal and go,,,,
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#40
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I just checked and for interest sake the carb is a edelbrock 1405 600cfm
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1405/10002/-1 |
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