[Held for Ransom]

Bob, have you looked at the block to see when it was cast (probably Kxx7)? '79 W72 engines were trying to use up the rest of the blocks sitting in inventory. Repop decals vendors must not know the applications.

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

One thing that caught my attention today was the air cleaner decal. The one on the car is obviously original and it is PJ 8997017. It's interesting though that everyone lists that decal for a 1979 TA??? Maybe because this car is a June build...

[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks HFR, I had hoped you would weigh in on the air cleaner. I haven't checked the block date code. No excuse on that one. The heads were Feb '78 and the intake Dec '77. I'll check the block this evening.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Alvin

From my MOTOR AUTO REPAIR MANUAL 1978:

Under Heater Core Removal section

1973-78 Firebird...

4. Jack right front area of car and place on safety stand.
5. Remove rocker panel trim on right side and remove screws holding forward of panel trim to attaching bracket.
6. Remove three lower fender bolts at rear of fender.
7. Remove four fender to skirt bolts at rear of wheel opening.
8. Remove two fender skirt bolts near blower motor area.
9. Pry rear portion of fender out at bottom to gain access to hose clamp on lower core hose and disconnect hose.
----------

My note & tip below...

Note: Be careful removing the Baked on heater hose from the htr core. It is easy to bend and/or fatigue the pipe to core solder area being overly aggressive with the removal process.

Tip: If you ever need to replace the heater core in the future you will need to remove the nut (engine compartment side) from the blower motor case hidden stud the is near the lower heater core case hose. You will have all others removed and or loose and not be able to remove the case W/O removal of this hidden stud nut.

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Well the directions from Alvin's Motor Auto Repair Manual were pretty much dead nuts on. The only variations were that there are only two lower fender bolts and only three fender to skirt bolts in the rear fender opening. The hose is off and the nut has been removed from the stud. Now to disassemble the interior....

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Brian - I hear you that four hands are better than two. Unfortunately My Pal Dave was AWOL today and I had no supporting cast. It's interesting that the hose clamp was OE. A lot of stuff under the dash was original as well including the foam gasket on the passenger side HVAC duct. However, you could tell it had been apart in the past as the same duct had the busted mounting points where it is secured to the dash and a repair had been attempted.

Bruce - Thanks for the history on the air cleaner...

Noted your Blk Formy and see the "rocker trim" as shown above? Was why I included the non-T/A "all Firebird" Removal procedure.

Hint: Most manuals will tell you for Blower motor replacement to "cut out the circular stamped recess for blower R&R..." Or something Like that.
Don't do it! I'd only replace it if it is inop, and if needed do the same procedure used for htr core...IIRC, may have to remove squirrel cage inside fender recess to remove...?

[David Holmberg]

My heater core went out when the car was 18 months old.

If anyone out there finds a Y88/WS6/W72 auto with a patched seam in the pass side wheelwell, it might be my old car. JK fixed it for me and made an L cut to get to the bottom clamp rather than remove the bottom bolts.

Also from the factory, if you lifted straight up on the drivers side rear spoiler cap it would lift off. All you had to do was put it back and it stayed, never came off on its own.

Strange Y88 things.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Thanks HFR, I had hoped you would weigh in on the air cleaner. I haven't checked the block date code. No excuse on that one. The heads were Feb '78 and the intake Dec '77. I'll check the block this evening.

HFR - the casting date on the Block is H237 - August 23. 1977. Almost a 6 month spread on block and heads. The block VIN matches.

[Bentwheelbob]

Mission creep has arrived....My family and friends hate to help me with anything because upon the completion of any job or task I always say "Just one more thing...",

Well maybe a few more than one. My Pal Dave was feeling a little left out of the heater core project so he came over tonight and we did a few more things. The rear sway bar is off the car for bead blasting and bushing replacement. It's pretty cool - the remnants of the factory sticker is still on the rear bar. We also got the dash bezel removed as Randy Combs is putting a new, old one together for me. The center dash vents were busted up and new replacements are now in place. I'll try to yank the gauge lenses sometime this week and polish them to remove the scratches. Lastly, we removed one section of the body side molding. It sure looks like it was installed at the dealer based on the aging of the attachment screws and the visible paint fading. Happily, at least on the section removed, it was attached so securely that the paint was not scratched underneath. Hopefully this will hold true on the longer sections of molding. Regardless, there are screw holes so new stick on molding will be installed. If anyone wants the original dealer installed molding it will probably be available.

Here's a few pictures...

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

HFR - the casting date on the Block is H237 - August 23. 1977. Almost a 6 month spread on block and heads. The block VIN matches.

Wow, even earlier than I thought.

[The Boss]

I'd love to know if some of the 79's shared the same casting date - old stock.

Somebody's finger needs some Bactine!

[2manyT/A'S]

It's funny how the fuel/volt guage lens always seems to "fog" and not the main cluster lens.....

[Bentwheelbob]

The body side molding has left the house.....

Well, the dealer applied body side molding has officially been removed. Gone, finished, abolished from all future duties. It's amazing how little damage was done to the finish by this molding. After removing it, I went through a two step buffing process to remove the built on grime, residue and abrasions, and there is almost no trace of it having been on the car. Almost is the key word. What remains are the multiple 3/32" screw holes....Were it not for these I would be home free. I really like the way it looks without the molding, but molding it must have to cover the holes.

I'm looking forward to getting the new factory style molding applied, but first the heater core has to get finished so the fender can be buttoned down, and the hinge roller needs replace on the drivers door to make sure the alignment doesn't change. I've got several trips over the next 10 days so it may be a while. we'll see...

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

The body side molding has left the house.....

Well, the dealer applied body side molding has officially been removed. Gone, finished, abolished from all future duties. It's amazing how little damage was done to the finish by this molding. After removing it, I went through a two step buffing process to remove the built on grime, residue and abrasions, and there is almost no trace of it having been on the car. Almost is the key word. What remains are the multiple 3/32" screw holes....Were it not for these I would be home free. I really like the way it looks without the molding, but molding it must have to cover the holes.

I'm looking forward to getting the new factory style molding applied, but first the heater core has to get finished so the fender can be buttoned down, and the hinge roller needs replace on the drivers door to make sure the alignment doesn't change. I've got several trips over the next 10 days so it may be a while. we'll see...

Hey Bob, I'd be interested in purchasing your takeoff trim, as our Martini Blue '78 has that style still.
No doubt, You'll enjoy this next part: instead of screws ours is installed w pop-rivets!

[The Boss]

DAMN!

On the bright side, your doors, fenders & quarters aren't all dinged and chipped from years of doors banging into them. There were 8 spots on my 79 that had to be messaged by the paint-less dent guys!

[Bentwheelbob]

Alvin - they are yours at no charge. I appreciate all the help you have provided and am happy these parts will find a good home. PM your address and I'll get them moving your way.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Alvin - they are yours at no charge. I appreciate all the help you have provided and am happy these parts will find a good home. PM your address and I'll get them moving your way.

Thxs Bob. PM sent.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by The Boss

I'd love to know if some of the 79's shared the same casting date - old stock.

Somebody's finger needs some Bactine!

my white W72 '79's block was cast in Jan of '78,( Nov built car ). I have never seen a actual 1979 calendar year built W72 car. I "think" the 400 did NOT meet the EPA , or Cafe standards for the calendar year 1979.
I would venture a guess that some later 78 W72's had Jan '78 castings...be nice to know...
NO '77 engines were used in 79 that I have ever heard of.
In '78 there was 4,112 Std shift W72 made ( red book)

[Bentwheelbob]

What's the "Red Book"?

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

What's the "Red Book"?

Here you go http://www.amazon.com/Firebird-Redbo.../dp/0760303924

[Held for Ransom]

Or, an original...

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Here you go http://www.amazon.com/Firebird-Redbo.../dp/0760303924

Look at that Amazon price?? Wow!!
If anyone wants a copy of a page or 3 let me know...

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

What's the "Red Book"?

Now don't go getting all excited........The Red Book is a decent reference guide,but there ARE some errors.......

Off the top of my head,some of the 72 #'s are just transposed from 71....AND... 4112 stick 78 Trans ams for 78 is NOT the gospel....according to John Witzke