[uneasyrider]

I plan on firing my car up on occasion this winter. We get some very nice days where the radiant heat keeps you warm in the car and we get very little snow normally (7" of total precipitation/yr). I was thinking of using a 0W-40 for the winter so it will get oil up in the engine quick at cold temperatures. Anyone ever use the stuff or have any comments one way or the other on that weight range?

Thanks,

[younggto]

If you are not going to drive it I wouldn't bother starting it at all. There was an article in HPP years ago that explained that crystals build up on the cylinder walls in addition to the excess fuel required at idle to wash the cylinder walls. Personally I change the oil while hot in the fall and turn the engines over once a month (if possible). Then it's all ready come spring. Also, unless driving the car condensation will form inside the engine which is never good and will not get burned off because the engine and oil never fully get up to operating temp.


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[uneasyrider]

Yep, the thing is I do drive it on occasion during the winter because the weather and roads are good it's just cold. My thoughts were that the 0W-40 will get the oil up there quick at low temp and the engine should come up to temp quicker because of the low viscosity at low temp but still remain high enough when the car is warmed up. I'm just not sure how the very low viscosity oil will do in the older engines. I have a hyd. roller cam so I'm not so worried about the cam lube it's just if the clearances aren't tight enough in the older engines for the ultra low viscosity oil.

[Grand73Am]

"lust4speed" made a lot of sense in a current thread about a good way to determine which weight oil to use. Here's what he said:

"If you were running 10W30 and your hot oil pressure driving down the highway was 35psi, then this engine would be a great candidate for 10W40 or even possibly 20W50. That would raise the oil pressure up enough to a better comfort zone. If you are running 20W50 and seeing pressures up around 70psi on a hot engine, then I would drop down to a thinner oil.

My cruiser engine had what I considered too high of oil pressure on cold starts, and was putting unnecessary strain on the system. I dropped down to a 5W30 and cold start pressures were much better. Next oil change I'm going to try 5W40 and I suspect cold pressure stays at a good level, and hot pressure goes up a little higher."

[uneasyrider]

Originally Posted by Grand73Am

"lust4speed" made a lot of sense in a current thread about a good way to determine which weight oil to use. Here's what he said:

"If you were running 10W30 and your hot oil pressure driving down the highway was 35psi, then this engine would be a great candidate for 10W40 or even possibly 20W50. That would raise the oil pressure up enough to a better comfort zone. If you are running 20W50 and seeing pressures up around 70psi on a hot engine, then I would drop down to a thinner oil.

My cruiser engine had what I considered too high of oil pressure on cold starts, and was putting unnecessary strain on the system. I dropped down to a 5W30 and cold start pressures were much better. Next oil change I'm going to try 5W40 and I suspect cold pressure stays at a good level, and hot pressure goes up a little higher."

Thanks, that sounds logical. It sounds like I can go to a 5W-40 anyway.

[AdamIsAdam]

In that same thread referred above was a link to charts showing cold pour ratings. Which is more important than weight for cold starts. I'm changing to Amsoil 20x-50 Zrod today based on those readings. I you like to drive the car even road conditions allow. The car is stored in the garage so it's never THAT cold of a cold start.

Found it:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=764086

[george kujanski]

Mobil 1 .......cranks easily at below zero temps with darn near instant oil pressure. Use it all the time, I don't use anything else.

You need to experience cranking at below zero temps with non-synthetic to really appreciate synthetics.

George

[pugslyx234]

I put a heat lamp pointed at the oil pan for 15 min, it fires up an the oil is also flowing good this is at 20 degrees which we usually dont see here. Just my 2 pennies.

[AdamIsAdam]

I just installed the Amsoil 20w50. The car was driven earlier to get it hot before the oil change, but when I started it after the oil change it came up in pressure instantly (it's about 40° out). The pressure was good too.

It better be fire $16/qt!!!!

[TedRamAirII]

Pumping cold 20w50 is like molasses. get Synthetic 5w30 for winter use.

[AdamIsAdam]

Read the prior posts and links on this subject. It's the cold pour value that matters more than just the weight.

[mcshooter]

Oil flow on a cold engine is more important than pressure, on startup the oil is in bypass to get flow so a 5-30 or 5-40 should be good year round.

[uneasyrider]

Thanks for the suggestions folks!

[2002Z4CSS]

I start my GT-37 on and off in the winter. I don't want any rust to form inside the engine or valve spring staying in one position too long not to mention fuel evaporating and leaving junk in the carb like varnish. I will start it this weekend. It will be the first time the engine was started since the Bob Sellers Indian Summer Show in September.
I will crank the engine without setting the choke until oil pressure builds up then I will set the choke and start it. This has never failed me yet.

[AdamIsAdam]

Is it me or does the carb get empty in just a matter of days? I have to crank for a while before the car starts. This was the same for my Holley and Qjet that I just put on last weekend. I kind of figure it's ok, because like you said, it's building oil pressure in the process anyway. But just curious as to others peoples' findings.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by 2002Z4CSS

I start my GT-37 on and off in the winter. I don't want any rust to form inside the engine or valve spring staying in one position too long not to mention fuel evaporating and leaving junk in the carb like varnish. I will start it this weekend. It will be the first time the engine was started since the Bob Sellers Indian Summer Show in September.
I will crank the engine without setting the choke until oil pressure builds up then I will set the choke and start it. This has never failed me yet.

not to start a debate on starting cars in the winter. but as mentioned above, if you are concerned with rust forming inside the engine you should be aware that starting a cold engine for a short time introduces water & acids from combustion & condensation inside the engine, likely causing more potential for rust than just leaving it sit for the winter months. even running it for 5-10 minutes does not burn off all the water thats created. start your daily driver in the freezing winter months or your stored car & watch how much water comes out the tail pipes. it takes at least 20-30 minutes of actual driving at operating temp to evaporate that water out of the oil.

each person is going to have different opinions on this but fact is starting your car for a few minutes in the winter is pointless & causes more damage than good. if you add a stabalizer to the fuel & do a fresh oil change before putting it away it will be perfectly fine & ready for next season. the internals are coated with a film of oil that will prevent rust in that short of time. it is better to sit there for the 3-6 months of winter than starting it up. unless you can actually drive the car & even then you arent really helping anything except maybe the winter blues that taking the car for a drive will help.

[TedRamAirII]

We used to drown it out with Marvel Oil. Let it idle, pour in oil through carb till its smoking, then shut her down. The oil will coat the pistons, rings, valves, cylinders.

[locomotivebreath]

The 400 in my gto sat for over 30 years in a non climate controlled garage in cincinnati. Humid summers to frigid winters . Not a speck of dust was found anyplace in the block , clean valves and shiny cylinders . I'd be more worried about a dry start then corrosion. Back to op though , An 0w40 would be awsome but I would want it with a healthy dose of zddp , roller cam or not .

[The Champ]

Just noticed that the OP is in Washington state where it really doesn't get very cold in the winter. Average low temps in Dec/Jan/Feb range from 28 - 30 degrees above zero. Average highs temps for the same period range from 38 - 48 degrees.

In comparison - the average low temps in the same months in my home town range from 5 below - 2 degrees above zero. The average highs in those months range from 16 - 24 degrees.

In that moderate climate - you could easily run a 5 or 10WSomething year round with no issues.

[uneasyrider]

Originally Posted by The Champ

Just noticed that the OP is in Washington state where it really doesn't get very cold in the winter. Average low temps in Dec/Jan/Feb range from 28 - 30 degrees above zero. Average highs temps for the same period range from 38 - 48 degrees.

In comparison - the average low temps in the same months in my home town range from 5 below - 2 degrees above zero. The average highs in those months range from 16 - 24 degrees.

In that moderate climate - you could easily run a 5 or 10WSomething year round with no issues.

Ok, so my standard year round stuff is fine at 10W-30 then. I might put a 5W-30 in it for in the winter just for a little quicker pickup and warm up.