[Half-Inch Stud]

1-piece valves
GOOOD springs
Roller Rockers

Electric fuel pump

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

1-piece valves
GOOOD springs
Roller Rockers

Electric fuel pump

Good advice

[gevette]

I did not see mention of ring package for your build. There is definite power in a nice ring set. I am building a SD455 with custom pistons with 1.5 1.5 3 mm rings. Use a Napier second ring. The oil ring set will be the key. Lower tension equals horsepower but you can go too far. A stealth vacuum pump install would be worth power especially with the lower ring tension. The vacuum pump will also help keep the engine clean and leak free. I have used electric GMs that due a good job. GZ Motorsports also has a good belt driven pump that is street worthy.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by gevette

I did not see mention of ring package for your build. There is definite power in a nice ring set. I am building a SD455 with custom pistons with 1.5 1.5 3 mm rings. Use a Napier second ring. The oil ring set will be the key. Lower tension equals horsepower but you can go too far. A stealth vacuum pump install would be worth power especially with the lower ring tension. The vacuum pump will also help keep the engine clean and leak free. I have used electric GMs that due a good job. GZ Motorsports also has a good belt driven pump that is street worthy.

You are right, I mentioned that there is power to be found in the pistons on post 13. I think to OP will be happy with Eagle rods and some kind of hydraulic roller cam. An OF or JMO grind or something like that.

[Matt Meaney]

all good advice in here. I'd go with a 4.5 stroke and a healthy roller cam, but keep it looking stock on the outside. no need for that if you'll be happy with just 12's.

I'd suggest you see Pete, at valley auto machine in Seymour. he'll put you together an engine that will make good power and handle any abuse you can dish out. he's a real machinist that can and does build any engine correctly the first time.

[johnta1]

I'd go with a 4.5 stroke and a healthy roller cam, but keep it looking stock on the outside. no need for that if you'll be happy with just 12's

12's?

With headers and a roller cam, it should be in 11's, with a stroker crank and more cr, 10's should be easy.
And still docile.

[Matt Meaney]

Originally Posted by johnta1

12's?

With headers and a roller cam, it should be in 11's, with a stroker crank and more cr, 10's should be easy.
And still docile.

I'm right there with ya

the op stated earlier that he'd be good with 12's, so no need for "fancy" stuff. and we all know, there's a lot more to running the number than just the engine.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by Matt Meaney

all good advice in here. I'd go with a 4.5 stroke and a healthy roller cam, but keep it looking stock on the outside. no need for that if you'll be happy with just 12's.

I'd suggest you see Pete, at valley auto machine in Seymour. he'll put you together an engine that will make good power and handle any abuse you can dish out. he's a real machinist that can and does build any engine correctly the first time.

Thanks Matt - I know Pete well - he built my 68 XW motor back in the early 90's and we've stayed in touch ever since. He was in fact the one who had to make the difficult call when we lost W. M. Block several years ago - http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=593033

He's already on board.

[Rob B]

Chris, As stated by others, Sell off the SD rods and buy a set of H-beams and some good pistons and rings. That should set you back under a grand and the best insurance money spent. keep the factory crank, its more than strong enough to do what you want to do and wouldn't be the weak link if something was to break. From there, it really wouldn't take much to achieve the goals your looking for (assuming you want to blow the doors off a certain green lemans as your main objective). Also there is NO need for the added expense of a roller cam over a flat tappet. It really doesn't take much to make a pretty much stock 455 run like a raped ape if done right. Call me one night if you get bored.

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Chris, As stated by others, Sell off the SD rods and buy a set of H-beams and some good pistons and rings. That should set you back under a grand and the best insurance money spent. keep the factory crank, its more than strong enough to do what you want to do and wouldn't be the weak link if something was to break. From there, it really wouldn't take much to achieve the goals your looking for (assuming you want to blow the doors off a certain green lemans as your main objective). Also there is NO need for the added expense of a roller cam over a flat tappet. It really doesn't take much to make a pretty much stock 455 run like a raped ape if done right. Call me one night if you get bored.

I don't HAVE to beat him - I already look better & that's good enough for me.

Will do.

[PAUL K]

Another option would be if you are really concerned about doing this budget on a project, would be to sell the SD455 rods and use a set of factory cast rods with ARP bolts and nice pistons. The price of the rods would almost pay for your entire rotating assembly. I'm using factory cast rods in my 70 RAIV TA and it sees 6500 rpm quite frequently!

[The Boss]

I'm pretty sure I've got a set of cast rods around here someplace - will put it on my to-do list to check.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by The Boss

I don't HAVE to beat him - I already look better & that's good enough for me.

Will do.

You don't HAVE to, but you know you WANT to..

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by The Boss

I'm pretty sure I've got a set of cast rods around here someplace - will put it on my to-do list to check.

I ran high 10's@6000rpms with cast rods, good bolts, Heavy pressed fit TRW aluminum pistons, factory crank, and a balanced rotating assembly. It can be done but for how long??? Everyone has different stories and opinions on it. I switched to some Scat H-beams and SRP pistons for insurance and slept a lot better at night.

[johnta1]

If you're trying to be on a budget, I see no problem with the SD rods.
I would never use the cast rods if you have these available?

I had run my SD to 7000 RPM many times with the stock SD parts.
It is just that they were rare so I changed to a stroker assembly to keep the factory stuff as spares.

I also don't think there are too many flat tappet cams that would wake up the SD heads. (at least for the money)
With a roller it would last forever probably with no worries of a flat cam or other problems.

Used roller stuff could probably be found cheaply.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by johnta1

If you're trying to be on a budget, I see no problem with the SD rods.
I would never use the cast rods if you have these available?

I had run my SD to 7000 RPM many times with the stock SD parts.
It is just that they were rare so I changed to a stroker assembly to keep the factory stuff as spares.

I also don't think there are too many flat tappet cams that would wake up the SD heads. (at least for the money)
With a roller it would last forever probably with no worries of a flat cam or other problems.

Used roller stuff could probably be found cheaply.

SUPER DUTY RODS ARE AWESOME!!! I've ran well into the nines with them. See post #8

[Larry Navarro]

Originally Posted by johnta1

I also don't think there are too many flat tappet cams that would wake up the SD heads. (at least for the money)

I beg to differ...........but I already know what works (on the street), and under 6000 rpm and on a limited budget.

Also forgot to add in "my recipe"(post #14) that I used factory head gaskets........which measured .062" in thickness !!

The typical Felpro #1016 I believe are .035".

No telling what the final CR ratio was on my build.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by Larry Navarro

I beg to differ...........but I already know what works (on the street), and under 6000 rpm and on a limited budget.

Also forgot to add in "my recipe"(post #14) that I used factory head gaskets........which measured .062" in thickness !!

The typical Felpro #1016 I believe are .035".

No telling what the final CR ratio was on my build.

I agree . FWIW Felpro 1016 are advertised as .039 crush thickness with 9.6 cc volume.

Also agree roller cams will make BIG power with SD heads.