[gto4evr]

with that cable disconnected from the shifter, turn the key on (without the engine running) grab the collar on the steering column and try to turn it to the right, clockwise. it should turn and take the tranny out of park. If it doesn't, then get underneath and try the same thing after disconnecting the pin at the other end of the cable where it connects to the transmission. If it turns at that point, then your cable is seized, if it doesn't turn then you're problem is upwards from the linkage to the steering column.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

with that cable disconnected from the shifter, turn the key on (without the engine running) grab the collar on the steering column and try to turn it to the right, clockwise. it should turn and take the tranny out of park. If it doesn't, then get underneath and try the same thing after disconnecting the pin at the other end of the cable where it connects to the transmission. If it turns at that point, then your cable is seized, if it doesn't turn then you're problem is upwards from the linkage to the steering column.

Great, I will give this a try. I am also hoping that this is making the neutral switch enabled (or not disabling it...however that works)



Would adjusting the cable be something I should try as well?

[gto4evr]

Once you establish that it's not the cable, then you can work your way backwards up the frame linkage to the column rod up to the column. The neutral safety will only allow the starter to operate in either it's Park or Neutral position which is directly linked to the clock position of the steering column collar position. If your linkage is rusty and binding, it could definitely have been affecting the switch. On my 71, whenever it gets really cold out, the column won't return completely to the park position. It'll turn far enough to allow the key out, but the car won't restart unless I grab the collar and turn it to the left to seat it in "park" so I can start the car up. I never got around to readjusting it and use it as a security device to prevent car theft!

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

Once you establish that it's not the cable, then you can work your way backwards up the frame linkage to the column rod up to the column. The neutral safety will only allow the starter to operate in either it's Park or Neutral position which is directly linked to the clock position of the steering column collar position. If your linkage is rusty and binding, it could definitely have been affecting the switch. On my 71, whenever it gets really cold out, the column won't return completely to the park position. It'll turn far enough to allow the key out, but the car won't restart unless I grab the collar and turn it to the left to seat it in "park" so I can start the car up. I never got around to readjusting it and use it as a security device to prevent car theft!

Ya I am assuming that the two are linked. It started fine until I took the console apart...I am probably unnecessarily stressing the starting issue until I get the shifting issue taken care of.

One other thing I did in the winter is undid the steering shaft in order to remove the drivers side upper control arm. I don't know if this would be linked but thought I would mention it.

Either way thanks for the info, I will try the barrel rotating thing you mentioned.

[nytrainer]

Might be worth noting in this thread that if your chassis/engine block/carbody grounds are missing/broken the auto shifter cable and sheathing, over time, can get very stiff to the point of seizing.

[6TEE8GTO]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

Might be worth noting in this thread that if your chassis/engine block/carbody grounds are missing/broken the auto shifter cable and sheathing, over time, can get very stiff to the point of seizing.

Good call, I remember this from the old days; the shifter cable becomes a ground and melts the sheath....

[gto4evr]

Originally Posted by 6TEE8GTO

Good call, I remember this from the old days; the shifter cable becomes a ground and melts the sheath....

ah yes, but don't forget, first you see SMOKE coming out of your console with a serious WTF moment as your brain tries to figure out what could possibly be burning under there. I still remember sitting at a traffic light one day and that happening to me. I couldn't pull over quick enough! No fire in the rug, no power under there other than the indicator light which wasn't on since it was the middle of the day. Put it back in gear and notice the cable seemed a bit stiff. Got it home and found the smoke coming from the cooking plastic and grease with that cable red hot! That's when you learn all about the importance of body grounds......

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by gto4evr

with that cable disconnected from the shifter, turn the key on (without the engine running) grab the collar on the steering column and try to turn it to the right, clockwise. it should turn and take the tranny out of park. If it doesn't, then get underneath and try the same thing after disconnecting the pin at the other end of the cable where it connects to the transmission. If it turns at that point, then your cable is seized, if it doesn't turn then you're problem is upwards from the linkage to the steering column.

I just tried this with no success. Just to clarify, with the shifter cable undone where I had the arrow, I am to turn that collar thing right behind the steering wheel, and this should make the shifter go from Park, then into reverse, then neutral etc etc...as though a ghost was magically doing it? I just want to be sure I am doing this correctly. If that is the case then it didn't work out. I dont know how much the collar is suppose to usually spin, but when it moved it it only moved about 1/4 inch.

[PontGuy]

Just to clarify, with the shifter cable undone where I had the arrow, I am to turn that collar thing right behind the steering wheel, and this should make the shifter go from Park, then into reverse, then neutral etc etc...as though a ghost was magically doing it? I just want to be sure I am doing this correctly. If that is the case then it didn't work out. I dont know how much the collar is suppose to usually spin, but when it moved it it only moved about 1/4 inch.

Yes, that is what was suggested. If it won't turn more than 1/4" then it sounds like either your cable is frozen in the sheath (pretty common if a car has a ground problem), or something is wrong with your backdrive linkage (possible but unlikely), or the input selector on the trans is frozen (never heard of that but anything is possible).

Earlier it was suggested that you crawl under the car and disconnect the end of the shifter cable from the input selector on the transmission. A cotter pin or clip holds it on. Do this and see if it frees up your steering wheel collar. Since you have the other end of the cable disconnected you should also be able to push and pull the cable back and forth in the sheath rather easily.

While you are at it you can also block the wheels or use the emergency brake and move the lever on the input selector (again under the car) to make sure the trans itself will go from gear to gear. Just make sure it is back in park before you start the car again!

Report back and we'll walk you through the next steps.

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by 6TEE8GTO

Good call, I remember this from the old days; the shifter cable becomes a ground and melts the sheath....

I remember an old 442 convertible I had when I was kid, kept going through shifter cables, I would put on known good used ones. Parts were plentiful back then. They were lasting like one every other week. I kept wondering what the heck? An then one night I started the car and the whole cable literally dripped off the car. It looked like slag from a cutting torch hitting the floor. You know cherry red and splashing. An ahh haa moment! The guy that had the car before me changed the motor and didn't ground it. I made a nice ground between the block and frame and it never ate another cable. It was the high amps of the starter. Everything else it could handle.

[Darth Menace]

Hi, I know it has been a while, but I have had to take a step back from the car and focus on some home renovations and work. Felt good taking a step back and letting the hate for the car subside a little bit.

Anyway, a mechanic I know personally was at my house and he looked at it. He stated that it was the shift cable seized. Again, I don't know how it worked fine and when it is time to get it out for a rip, this decides to happen, but I will go with it as everything is pointing at that as the problem.

Oh well, time to order a cable and get this thing on the road

Originally Posted by PontGuy

Yes, that is what was suggested. If it won't turn more than 1/4" then it sounds like either your cable is frozen in the sheath (pretty common if a car has a ground problem), or something is wrong with your backdrive linkage (possible but unlikely), or the input selector on the trans is frozen (never heard of that but anything is possible).

Earlier it was suggested that you crawl under the car and disconnect the end of the shifter cable from the input selector on the transmission. A cotter pin or clip holds it on. Do this and see if it frees up your steering wheel collar. Since you have the other end of the cable disconnected you should also be able to push and pull the cable back and forth in the sheath rather easily.

While you are at it you can also block the wheels or use the emergency brake and move the lever on the input selector (again under the car) to make sure the trans itself will go from gear to gear. Just make sure it is back in park before you start the car again!

Report back and we'll walk you through the next steps.

[1969GTO]

Don't go cheep on the new cable, get the good GM one, if you want to go cheep, I will sell you my off brand cheep......

[north]

put a 4speed in her, problem solved!

;-)

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by north

put a 4speed in her, problem solved!

;-)

I wish, but that is long into the future if ever

[Darth Menace]

Finally got the shifter cable and installed it; however, I believe this shift cable has to be adjusted. Does anyone have a link on how I go about adjusting the cable?

[PontGuy]

What cable did you get? If you got a GM cable (in a GM package) as suggested, it is not adjustable. But with the correct bracket that mounts to the trans pan it should work properly without any adjustment. The back-drive linkage to the column will probably need some adjustment so that the neutral safety switch and lockout positions are correct. This is done by loosening the setscrew that holds the rod in the trans shift assembly under the car, sliding the rod to the correct position and then re-tightening.

If you got one of the cheap repops then you may have to play around with the bracket at the trans, and even then it may be a challenge to get it into 1st gear. This is a very common problem with them.

[Greg Reid]

If you got the cheap repop, just send it back is my suggestion. If you got the more expensive GM item, it should work with no adjustments.
I've had the same thing happen with my cable. You have to make sure you keep all engine grounds attached or just disconnect the battery if it's going to be sitting for a while. I had no smoke, no melting of the cable....Just wouldn't move one day.

[rexs73gto]

I've read the entire post now & before you do anything else I would add a secondary ground somewhere from the engine to the frame of the car so this doesn't happen again.

[Greg Reid]

On that car, there should be at least two from the factory. One at the front of the passenger side head to the frame right next to it and one on the back of the passenger side head to the firewall.

[68gtoMN]

Also, don't forget this ground from pass front frame to inner fender