Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
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  #21  
Old 04-11-2016, 02:31 PM
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I was in an El Camino when a front one let go. Concrete highway, we vaulted, enough to send us into the median, where it rolled on it's side. Not fun. At least the shaft didn't vault us completely over though, it collapsed. The remains were interesting.

Friend was at the track standing off to the side of the burnout box, rear joint let go in a car heating them, shot a piece of u-joint back and hit him in the knee. Nothing broken, but wow did that thing swell up.

I was in a 69 Chevelle, project car, no rear trim around the rear glass, doing around 100 mph on the same highway the El Camino had the incident, rear glass blew out, helicoptered, landed in the median, we went back and got it, it was still intact. Only a small chip in one corner.

I was going to use one of those type that slip in under the trans mount, but it made the angles boogered and couldn't use it.

.

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  #22  
Old 04-11-2016, 02:35 PM
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Were the side windows open on the vehicle that blew out the back window?

  #23  
Old 04-11-2016, 03:35 PM
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I think Mythbusters even did one on vaulting the car. I don't think they got theirs to do it.

What a job figure out new ways to wreck or blow up stuff!

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  #24  
Old 04-11-2016, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Were the side windows open on the vehicle that blew out the back window?
I saw one of the NSS (early Catalina) cars blow the rear window out (windows were closed) at 200 feet just from the body twisting up badly, so it can happen even with the windows up.

Tom V.

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  #25  
Old 04-12-2016, 08:14 PM
Sheskomatic Sheskomatic is offline
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Default Drive Shaft Safety Loop

This one looks interesting from Ram Air Restorations. No modifictations needed to the car.
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  #26  
Old 04-12-2016, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheskomatic View Post
This one looks interesting from Ram Air Restorations. No modifictations needed to the car.
You think that can handle it if needed?

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  #27  
Old 04-12-2016, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheskomatic View Post
This one looks interesting from Ram Air Restorations. No modifictations needed to the car.
I have seen that one in the past. If it installs properly in your vehicle then it is a lot better vs nothing. You are not drilling holes in the sheetmetal.

The ones that bridge the frame like a cross-member are the best because they are typically stronger and less likely to be twisted out of the mounting location if the driveshaft u-joint does let go.

Tom V.

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  #28  
Old 04-12-2016, 10:31 PM
Nicks67GTO Nicks67GTO is offline
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UMI performance driveshaft loop in my 67 gto....


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  #29  
Old 04-13-2016, 06:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Were the side windows open on the vehicle that blew out the back window?
Yeah

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  #30  
Old 04-13-2016, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheskomatic View Post
This one looks interesting from Ram Air Restorations. No modifictations needed to the car.
That's the one I was talking about, it threw off my angles and couldn't use it.

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #31  
Old 04-13-2016, 01:08 PM
tooski tooski is offline
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The RARE loop is what I wanted to do. But the trans mount sits in a pocket of the cross member. Raising it out, plus the thickness of the loop metal puts the trans yoke too close to the tunnel for my liking.

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  #32  
Old 04-13-2016, 07:38 PM
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I have seen people take a spare cross-member to a welding shop and have them weld a tab at the right position on the rear of the cross-member, then cut the RARE piece and adapt it to the modded cross-member so that you have the right hoop height and hoop position on the driveshaft.

The nice thing is that the parts can be easily removed at a later date and you have not drilled holes in your floorboards or welded stuff into the car that screws up the value.

Some do not even bother with the RARE part and make a fabricated HOOP and weld that on to the spare crossmember so it is even a better design.

Tom V.

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  #33  
Old 04-14-2016, 08:49 PM
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Thought I could get a shot of it but it's too dark in the garage and that car is just too damned low to the ground. I'll get it out in the sunlight tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Mine is bolted to the subframe connectors. I think some of the high dollar ones are even already set up for it this way.

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  #34  
Old 04-14-2016, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firebob View Post
Thought I could get a shot of it but it's too dark in the garage and that car is just too damned low to the ground. I'll get it out in the sunlight tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Mine is bolted to the subframe connectors. I think some of the high dollar ones are even already set up for it this way.
That should work ok.

Tom V.

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  #35  
Old 04-15-2016, 07:22 AM
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http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ive+shaft+loop

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  #36  
Old 04-17-2016, 10:57 PM
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Default Loop

Finally got under the car today.
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  #37  
Old 04-17-2016, 11:00 PM
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Default Loop

Number two.
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  #38  
Old 04-24-2016, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archerytony View Post
Anyone have a good picture of one installed? I have one I would like to do as well that will work safely
This is what I built for my 62.
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