[HWYSTR455]

I've been back and forth on this, considering what to do, and, in the end, I chose not to complicate things.

There's so much to consider to do this right, it's not something you can't do without deep thought. Things like line size, types of fittings, thermostat or not, where to place the stat, sender type and location, drain back concerns, types of filters to use, the list goes on.

You really need to determine IF you actually need it, and if for when you're targeting cooling, if that period of time will actually cause issues. You have to weigh the benefits against the risks and make a choice.

There's actually very few scenarios that call for engine oil cooling. One is circuit/road racing, and off shore racing is another. Not many times will there be a need for it in drag racing, or dual duty use.

Some argue that oil temps are actually cooler when you fill half way (depends who you ask). Water temps are certainly cooler, usually by 10-15 degrees. I ran a half filled block on the street, and beat it to the likes that would challenge road course events. On those occasions, I would always change the oil after, and never found discoloration or other noticeable issues. Personal experience/grain of salt.

If you do chose to go that direction, one thing to start with is the block plate itself, how it fits, stand off, and transitions. Many say that the block itself needs to have oil passages modified, to allow for a smoother flow path.

Another thing is, is the header tube too close to allow for proper clearance of the fittings? I mocked up a setup in my 'bird, and the AN fittings came so close to the header, the purpose of the cooler would have probably defeated. Smaller size or a tight radius fitting would restrict the flow, so not an option.

Filters and filter housings. If you defeat the OE filter housing, your bypass goes away. So, you generally want an effective bypass in the filter. And that's generally not going to be covered in an off the shelf filter. Filter mounts/housing, those you need to be concerned with construction, internal flow paths, restrictions, size, etc. Can't run a cheap one, like a trans-dapt aluminum dual one, believe me, I looked at those, they are junk, not to mention it takes a lot of clean up just to make them usable. They can crack, leak at threads, and other typical stuff of cheap parts.

Then there's the capacity of the system, and drain back. Like, you run 10AN lines, dual 'school bus' filters, when you park the thing and shut it off, drain back can fill the pan, and cause leaks. And how long does it take to get psi to the end of the oil tract? Your pump is only going to move X, and you're adding a Lincoln tunnel between it and that last fitting that squirts you dizzy gear.

My suggestion would be to start by running an oil temp gauge, and see what your actual temps are, under driving conditions you're concerned that the temp would climb. If it's borderline, try running a different oil, like a syn or blend, see if that helps. IMO, better to try to control it with other methods before throwing the kitchen sink at it.

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